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Discussion Starter #441
Had a little time to kill between getting home from work and getting ready to go out for New Years...



Got the "stiffener boards" all attached!
The one clamp is holding down one of the small pieces I had to add since I only bought 8' pieces of 1x2... decided it could use a little glue since I couldn't get 2 screws into it like on the other long side.

Started messing around with the screen tight but realized that I probably can't get the corners right without doing mitred corners. I wasn't sure how to cut plastic for a nice mitre - so I decided to wait until tomorrow and give my dremel a try. I'm 99% sure I won't be able to do perfect corners, but they'll all be hidden anyway so who cares!

Played around with positioning the screen tight - I am probably going to go right in the middle instead of either tight against the center edge or tight against the stiffener board.

Also - apparently when I was planning the cross bar I had been planning on putting it on the back side of the uprights to space it off the wall. I didn't remember doing it that way - but the board I measured and cut is clearly not meant to go between the uprights ;). LOL!


Side note: the final screen width came out the exactly 102" along one long board, and 102 1/8" along the other. I don't think that difference will be noticeable so I'm not about to take things apart just to shave a blade width off a board. If it was more than that I would take it apart, my limit was going to be 3/16".
 

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Discussion Starter #442
Update from 1/2/17:

Here is the short version:

Figured out a way to cut nice 45 degree angles on the Screen Tight track - just needed 2 clamps, a square, and a hacksaw:


1/2" #8 pan head sheet metal screws every 6 inches worked great for holding the track in place, corners came out OK.


Building the "hanger" for the screen was a pain. I did some calculations to figure out how to get it so the back of the screen would be 16" from the wall - somehow I got it right. The joists overhead were of course not in the right places so the uprights aren't centered, so it is a bit ugly - luckily no one will see it once I'm done. The store bought French Cleat was easy to use and the built in bubble level was great!


I was starting to get close to the time company was coming over to watch the Lions game on the "new screen" so I started rushing to get the fabric stretched and installed. What a pain! It only took on short side worth of rolling for me to start wishing I had just decided to use staples. I managed to get 3 sides of the black fabric installed before I was about out of time, so I just used thumbtacks to get the white fabric up and usable.


After getting the projector level and square i realized that the projector had ended up 1.5-2" too low for the screen height I planned. Looks like I will be raising the 2x12 up so I can get the image up above the screen, then use the vertical lens shift to bring it down.

Anyway a we watched the Lions game on the mostly done screen and it my friends were blown away - I'm very happy with the size of the screen, just need to get get it actually done ;)

EDIT: Forgot this picture:
 

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Discussion Starter #443
Sunday 1/8/17 update:

Plan for today was to get the screen mount fixed, redo the screen fabric, raise the projector up 1.5", install the ceiling outlet, run the wiring, install the screen wall uprights, paint everything black, and reinstall the projector. I got a lot of that done... so here is an excessively long post about today:

First thing I did was build some "spacers" for the projector mount. In case you missed it - earlier I noticed my screen was about 1" further out from the wall on the left side than the right. When I measured the mount it was 1/2" different due things shifting up at the top attachment point even through each one had 4 screws holding it in place... I used my Kreg jig to make a some boards to space things out from the wall the exact distance I needed it. They are "L" shaped so I can attach them to the studs in the wall and tie them into either end of the screen mount:
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr

Worked out great - mount spaced out 15.5" from the wall, back of screen ended up at 16", front of screen 17.5" from the wall all according to plan ;)

Next up was modifying the 2x12 - if you recall I discovered that the projector was hanging too low and was not hitting the top of the screen. I didn't want to tilt it and have to use keystone correction to compensate, so I decided I was going to put a hole in the 2x12 and stick the mount through it to get the extra height. I originally planned to use a jigsaw, but I noticed how close I was going to be to the edge of the wall... so I decided to go with one of these instead!
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr

Moved on to using the jigsaw to cut out the opening for the outlet... everything looked great, I popped the outlet in and something awful happened - the part I was worried about breaking fell off!! Apparently cutting out the other hole bounced it around too much :eek:
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr

I was able to glue and clamp the parts back together.
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr

Gave the glue a while to dry and decided to get to work on the screen. I decided not to pull the black layer off and I just finished attaching the final long side, and adjusted one short side - and it evened out nicely. Still had a few creases that didn't come out with the stretching, but it won't be seen so I didn't care. When I went to add the white layer I decided to be smarter this time and follow the same stretching pattern that is recommended for stapling - as you can see here I stretched each side and fastened each one down in the center.
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr

Once the fabric was all stretched I did a test fit fit with the projector to make sure it hit the right spot - it hit just above the screen (after leveling the projector) so I could shift it down onto the screen as planned ;) Test pattern confirms I somehow got it lined up properly.
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr

As an added bonus I can now stand under the projector!
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr

Next up was a quick coat of matte Mouse Ears! Painted the mount, 2x12, and the boards that will be the uprights for the front wall.
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr

Installed the outlets (the power outlet doesn't have wires run to it yet, HDMI does):
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr

Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr

Fired up a couple of movies - first screenshot was run through Kodi, other is from a demo blu-ray... I couldn't figure out why it was not going full screen, but I just now realized I forgot to adjust the screen borders... oops.
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr

Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr

Only problem is there are a few wrinkles that didn't come out of the white layer... I decided to let it sit for a bit and see if they work themselves out. Just in case I also picked up a steamer - I'll give the steamer a try if it doesn't work itself out in a few days ;)
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickrmselves out. Just in case I also picked up a steamer - I'll give the steamer a try if it doesn't work itself out in a few days
Screen build Jan 8 by PTAaron, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #444
Productive couple of days since my last post... in case anyone is interested ;)

I had come up with a plan earlier in the day for exactly how I wanted to construct the uprights for the wall - plan was to attach the uprights to the ceiling joists, add some "stand offs" from the wall to prevent the upright board from bowing, and that was about it.

I picked up a few goodies at Home Depot on the way home - cut the boards down to size and pulled out the trusty Kreg jig again. That jig is getting a lot of use!





Attached the "difficult side" first where the joist and stud in the wall didn't line up with the upright location, but ran into a problem with things not lining up quite right even though everything was cut properly and measured right... but I think I got it all straightened out.


Upper attachment at the floor joists:


I kept dropping the spacer board I was using to make sure I was keeping things consistent distance from the side wall - that wasn't so good for the paint or drywall on the wall. Luckily this will all be behind velvet panels when I'm done.


The left side lined up with the floor joist and wall stud - so it was much less hassle:




Did some ceiling tile cutting and got everything back in place - here is a quick pic before I painted the supports for the uprights


Unfortunate discovery when I went to hook the center channel back up... the plug had broken in the wall outlet! I'll be emailing Monoprice in the morning to see if they have any thoughts. Luckily I had a couple of spare Monster plugs laying around with some wire, so I just made a new cable to use for now. Since the connectors are Monster brand now, I'm sure the sound will be 500% better. ;) LOL!


Next day I had a few minutes to work on running the electric. My plan was to put an inlet in the room nextdoor with wiring from that to the outlet at the projector. The UPS in the furnace room connects to the "inlet" with an extension cord.

Final result in the furnace room/network distribution room:




UPS in its temporary location on top of the water heater - excuse the wire mess, switching to U-verse caused a lot of cables to get moved around and I haven't fixed it up yet


Oh... what do you call someone that starts drilling holes in overhead joists while standing directly under them? Around here we call that dumbass Aaron!


...any true metro-Detroiter should already be singing the jingle that goes with the company logo on my sweatshirt without seeing the company name ;)

I've realized I need a MUCH shorter power cord and a shorter HDMI cable - but for now some cable ties and some tucking in get the job done.
 

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Looks AWESOME!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #447
Looks AWESOME!!!
Thank you!!
I'm very happy with how it turned out :smile:

Only thing I would change is that I would go back in time and do matte Sorcerer's Hat paint on the walls instead of eggshell. I'd like a little less reflection off the wall when watching a movie.
 

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Thank you!!
I'm very happy with how it turned out :smile:

Only thing I would change is that I would go back in time and do matte Sorcerer's Hat paint on the walls instead of eggshell. I'd like a little less reflection off the wall when watching a movie.
Your blue on the walls looks like about the same color as my GOM panels. :)
 

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This is a great build thread, thank you for sharing. I guess I need to get back to work on mine. :gulp:
 

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Discussion Starter #450
Your blue on the walls looks like about the same color as my GOM panels. :)
Yeah, I noticed that in the past ;) We both have great taste apparently!

This is a great build thread, thank you for sharing. I guess I need to get back to work on mine. :gulp:
Thanks for checking it out!
 

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Discussion Starter #451
I had some free time over the weekend so I tackled my screen wall... I had picked up 6 yards of Royalty 3 velvet earlier in the week, so it was time get to work.

LOVE the Kreg jig - one of the best purchases I've made in a while!


Took a while to drill the pocket holes for all of the supports... but everything went together nice and easy


Miscalculated how much 1x2 scrap I was going to have - so the top panel has 2 supports that are 1x3 - no big deal, you guys are the only ones that will know ;)


Wrapping with velvet should have been really easy - but as you can see my stapler has seen better days... good tip is never to drop an electric stapler onto concrete from the top of a ladder. LOL! It took literally 3-4x as long as it should have because it kept jamming, not restting, or firing too light but I didn't want to buy a new one ;)


I put some blocks on the side walls and then attached velcro for the side panels... the center panels press fit between them very tightly so they aren't going anywhere. Funny how much more "black" velvet is than Mouse Ears black paint!


This was as far as I got Saturday - but I had to figure out what to do with the part around the subs and cabinet since my wife had decided that we needed to keep the cabinet.


I had a few ideas, but I decided to make it complicated when I got back to work on Sunday.
I also picked up a manual stapler to replace my busted electric stapler.










There are a few ripples but you know what? I don't care! LOL!!

The part I wasn't sure about was how to cover the area between the subs - but my wife said "why not just make it a curtain?" ... so that's what I'm going to do. I just need 1 more yard of velvet to make the curtain ;)

I'm also thinking of getting a yard of black GOM to cover the subs but I don't know if that will work - those ports move a lot of air.
 

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Discussion Starter #452


Got my 4 bass traps today - a friend picked them up for me from a local foam shop that is only open while I'm at work... 4 12"x12"x24" corner traps are a lot bigger in person than they sound! LOL! Not a bad deal for $45 though!
I'm going to run REW... then install the traps and then run it again to see what difference they make ;)
After that I'm going to consider finally cutting the openings in my riser that I planned on doing months ago to use it as a broadband bass trap ;)
 

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While the wife was away this morning I had some time to do a little work before our evening plans start...

Picked up some more velvet, some heat activated fabric bonding strips (since I don't have a sewing machine), a piece of pex pipe, a metal rod that fits inside the pipe, and some super strong magnets.

I made an appropriately sized "curtain" for the space between the subs and used the heat activated stuff to make a sleeve along the bottom edge - the stables are holding the heat activated stuff in place, the adhesive on it was garbage:


Then I used a carpet tack strip tack side down the make make sure things hung down evenly... used some screws to hold it in place:


Test fit... had to make some adjustments and add some industrial Velcro to fix a spot where the heat stuff came apart - I was really worried about getting the velvet too hot and ruining it, so I probably didn't get it heated evenly. On a test piece I found that there was a very fine line between "just enough" and ruining the fabric.


After adjustments - there is still one little spot that isn't quite right that I will adjust when I add the subwoofer fabric..: but I'm really happy with it. I didn't add the magnets yet - that should make it a little tighter. Right now you can tell it isn't a "panel", but when the lights are low it's invisible.


This is with the rear 4 lights at about 40% and the door open - just to show that the subwoofer poets are visible and shiny. The screen looks much more washed out in the picture than in real life... and yeah the clock on my HTPC is off by an hour ;)
 

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I had some free time over the weekend so I tackled my screen wall... I had picked up 6 yards of Royalty 3 velvet earlier in the week, so it was time get to work.

LOVE the Kreg jig - one of the best purchases I've made in a while!


Took a while to drill the pocket holes for all of the supports... but everything went together nice and easy


Miscalculated how much 1x2 scrap I was going to have - so the top panel has 2 supports that are 1x3 - no big deal, you guys are the only ones that will know ;)


Wrapping with velvet should have been really easy - but as you can see my stapler has seen better days... good tip is never to drop an electric stapler onto concrete from the top of a ladder. LOL! It took literally 3-4x as long as it should have because it kept jamming, not restting, or firing too light but I didn't want to buy a new one ;)


I put some blocks on the side walls and then attached velcro for the side panels... the center panels press fit between them very tightly so they aren't going anywhere. Funny how much more "black" velvet is than Mouse Ears black paint!


This was as far as I got Saturday - but I had to figure out what to do with the part around the subs and cabinet since my wife had decided that we needed to keep the cabinet.


I had a few ideas, but I decided to make it complicated when I got back to work on Sunday.
I also picked up a manual stapler to replace my busted electric stapler.










There are a few ripples but you know what? I don't care! LOL!!

The part I wasn't sure about was how to cover the area between the subs - but my wife said "why not just make it a curtain?" ... so that's what I'm going to do. I just need 1 more yard of velvet to make the curtain ;)

I'm also thinking of getting a yard of black GOM to cover the subs but I don't know if that will work - those ports move a lot of air.
How do you access behind the screen? Did you hinge it, and use struts by any chance? I ask this because i just hinged mine, and I am not sure what struts to get or how to set them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #458
How do you access behind the screen? Did you hinge it, and use struts by any chance? I ask this because i just hinged mine, and I am not sure what struts to get or how to set them up.
I did it the boring way - just a french cleat.
Basically it goes like this: grab the screen, lift it up, accidentally smack the ceiling with the upper right corner of the screen (every dang time), slowly turn and try not to smack the screen into the walls... set screen down. Simple. LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter #460 (Edited)
I'm a bit behind on updating things here... I ended up just going with a "curtain" for the area between the subs - just used a piece of velvet with a sleeve at the bottom. I put a piece of pex pipe with a steel rod in it (for weight) in the sleeve to keep it in place. Ended up looking like this:


I got ahold of a bit of GOM to make covers for the subs - and they looked amazing... but when the subs hit low notes the GOM fabric made some nasty flapping noises against the ports so I went back to the "exposed subs" look.

I installed 4 corner bass traps in the front of the room behind the screen - and did some before/after REW testing. Disappointingly there was literally no change in the frequency response... So that was a disappointing waste of $50.


I also cut holes in the riser and added 7 of the planned 11 vents so the riser could function as a bass trap:

Try not to notice the missing baseboard trim... I forgot that I never finished it... LOL! Also - yes the temporary carpet is still there...

The results of REW testing were less than impressive.


Spectrograms of the room before, after corner traps, and after adding rear vents:




If I'm looking at the spectrograms right - it looks like there is a little bit of improvement there... I guess?


I used a MiniDSP to apply some filters...


I also picked up an Insteon 2245-222 hub along with 3 switches to replace my Lutron Maestro IR switches and a micro dimmer module that I installed in the box for my riser light switch. That allowed me to do a couple of cool things - first I set my riser light switch to be a "controller" for the other switches so now I can turn on all the room lights by flipping one switch by the door! Previously I had to either use a remote control or walk halfway through the room to get to the switches ;) The other REALLY cool thing is that it let me create some files to add into CinemaVision (a Kodi add-on that I use on my HTPC) that allow it to control the lights as it goes through the movie sequence.
Here is a little video that shows how it works (watch it in HD or it will look like garbage):

Anyway... so that's where we are now!
 
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