Hi
The Behringer EP2500 has been getting more and more popular with IB subwoofer builders. (and other sub builders of course)
It offers plenty of power at a price that makes domestic stereo power amps seem foolishly expensive. For our subwoofer needs we aren't looking for "air", pinpoint imagery or crystal clear highs. Crossed over at around 80Hz you couldn't ask for a more affordable tractor to get those big cones moving. (and stopping just as quickly)
My opinion (shared by others) is that the original cooling fan is far too noisy. Niagara Falls or Victoria Falls don't even come close. (I'm joking of course but you get the picture)
These amps are designed for live performances where they are probably screwed up to maximum volume into 2 Ohms and left that way until the gig ends.
For HT use and reproducing music at home these amplifier don't get nearly the same hard treatment. That means we can slow the rush of cooling air with quieter fan options.
The original fan is a standard PC size but runs on 24 Volts. I couldn't obtain a quiet Panaflow locally in 24 Volts so ordered a Papst from the Danish importer instead.
First you must remove the screws which hold the amplifier lid down. These are fixed along both sides near the top and along the back only at the very top. Don't start unscrewing the socket fixing screws further down at the back. You'll also have to remove the 4 screws which fix the lid down to the heatsink. Use a decent crosshead screwdriver to avoid damaging the screws. They are fitted quite tightly so you will ruin the screwheads with a poorly-fitting screwdriver!
Here are a some images to show what's involved in swapping the fan. The twisted red, black and white wires are the motor connection to the small PCB on the left. (seen from the front of the amp)
If you're past your guarantee period you could just snip the wires and use a connector block to join the new fan wires to the old ones wherever you consider convenient.
My amp is still under guarantee so I didn't want it to be blatantly obvious that I'd swapped fans.
Behringer do not approve of fan swaps. You can't really blame them considering the abuse they get in a live gig. The modded amp might be sold on with the quiet fan and nobody would be the wiser until the amp got fried. The unhappy new owner would then start badmouthing Behringer products. So keep your original Behringer fan in a safe place in case it's needed in the future.
The original fan wires have a little plug which is held to the PCB with hot glue. A scalpel or similarly sharp tool will release the glue and the plug can come free.
Careful examination of the tiny plug will show that it sits in a little holster which then sits on the pins protruding from the PCB. If you are lucky you may be able to do a plug swap in the original holster. My new Papst fan came with bare wires so I had to find a plug on another cooling fan which was compatible with the holster.
General view of Behringer EP2500 with arrow pointing to twisted fan motor wires.
Here's where the plug fits on the PCB pins.
The new silent Papst fan fitted. It blows air forward through the long, box-shaped heatsink.The fan sits in a thin, folded metal shell and is held by four long screws. The same screws hold the wire protective cage to keep fingers out of the fan blades.
Do not undo the four fan screws until you have the lid safely off the amp and can see inside.
I have monitored the amp temperature with a digital temperature probe and found a maximum of 4F above ambient after an hour of Metallica's Black Album at a steady 100dB on my RS meter. On action films the amp doesn't get enough exercise to warm up above ambient at all. In use a quite ticking can be heard if I stand close enough. A far cry from the roar of air from the original fan. Which could be heard form 12 feet away through the cones of my IB.
Others have mentioned using resistors to slow the original 24Volt fan. Perhaps somebody will chip in with their experiences using resistors and the values required.
UPDATE:
Here's a picture of the original Behringer fan. The size is 80 x 80 x 25mm.
Note that the wire is double insulated with a black sleeve over black and red. NOT the twisted R/B/W wires shown above.
It plugs into the small PCB on the left exactly as shown above.
Here's an image of the original plug within a plug. I had to buy a cheap fan with the same kind of plug because no local computer dealers sold the plug on its own.
The Behringer EP2500 has been getting more and more popular with IB subwoofer builders. (and other sub builders of course)
It offers plenty of power at a price that makes domestic stereo power amps seem foolishly expensive. For our subwoofer needs we aren't looking for "air", pinpoint imagery or crystal clear highs. Crossed over at around 80Hz you couldn't ask for a more affordable tractor to get those big cones moving. (and stopping just as quickly)
My opinion (shared by others) is that the original cooling fan is far too noisy. Niagara Falls or Victoria Falls don't even come close. (I'm joking of course but you get the picture)
These amps are designed for live performances where they are probably screwed up to maximum volume into 2 Ohms and left that way until the gig ends.
For HT use and reproducing music at home these amplifier don't get nearly the same hard treatment. That means we can slow the rush of cooling air with quieter fan options.
The original fan is a standard PC size but runs on 24 Volts. I couldn't obtain a quiet Panaflow locally in 24 Volts so ordered a Papst from the Danish importer instead.
First you must remove the screws which hold the amplifier lid down. These are fixed along both sides near the top and along the back only at the very top. Don't start unscrewing the socket fixing screws further down at the back. You'll also have to remove the 4 screws which fix the lid down to the heatsink. Use a decent crosshead screwdriver to avoid damaging the screws. They are fitted quite tightly so you will ruin the screwheads with a poorly-fitting screwdriver!
Here are a some images to show what's involved in swapping the fan. The twisted red, black and white wires are the motor connection to the small PCB on the left. (seen from the front of the amp)
If you're past your guarantee period you could just snip the wires and use a connector block to join the new fan wires to the old ones wherever you consider convenient.
My amp is still under guarantee so I didn't want it to be blatantly obvious that I'd swapped fans.
Behringer do not approve of fan swaps. You can't really blame them considering the abuse they get in a live gig. The modded amp might be sold on with the quiet fan and nobody would be the wiser until the amp got fried. The unhappy new owner would then start badmouthing Behringer products. So keep your original Behringer fan in a safe place in case it's needed in the future.
The original fan wires have a little plug which is held to the PCB with hot glue. A scalpel or similarly sharp tool will release the glue and the plug can come free.
Careful examination of the tiny plug will show that it sits in a little holster which then sits on the pins protruding from the PCB. If you are lucky you may be able to do a plug swap in the original holster. My new Papst fan came with bare wires so I had to find a plug on another cooling fan which was compatible with the holster.
General view of Behringer EP2500 with arrow pointing to twisted fan motor wires.
Here's where the plug fits on the PCB pins.
The new silent Papst fan fitted. It blows air forward through the long, box-shaped heatsink.The fan sits in a thin, folded metal shell and is held by four long screws. The same screws hold the wire protective cage to keep fingers out of the fan blades.
Do not undo the four fan screws until you have the lid safely off the amp and can see inside.
I have monitored the amp temperature with a digital temperature probe and found a maximum of 4F above ambient after an hour of Metallica's Black Album at a steady 100dB on my RS meter. On action films the amp doesn't get enough exercise to warm up above ambient at all. In use a quite ticking can be heard if I stand close enough. A far cry from the roar of air from the original fan. Which could be heard form 12 feet away through the cones of my IB.
Others have mentioned using resistors to slow the original 24Volt fan. Perhaps somebody will chip in with their experiences using resistors and the values required.
UPDATE:
Here's a picture of the original Behringer fan. The size is 80 x 80 x 25mm.
Note that the wire is double insulated with a black sleeve over black and red. NOT the twisted R/B/W wires shown above.
It plugs into the small PCB on the left exactly as shown above.
Here's an image of the original plug within a plug. I had to buy a cheap fan with the same kind of plug because no local computer dealers sold the plug on its own.