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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone and greetings from 8300 feet in the Colorado Rockies.

The research has been completed, in no small thanks to this forum and I'm ready to start my first box build (x2).

The finished boxes will be for a dedicated HT and installed as a pair of end tables on either side of my primary seating area. The space they need to fit into is very tight so the shape is a little odd. The total volume is 4.5 cubic feet, port and bracing included. The tune is 20 hz and the port dimensions are 2 x 10 x 26. I'll be using an EP4000 in 2 chanel mode for power and high pass filter at 18 hz.

Since this is my first build, I think I'll build a prototype box using MDF first. That way I can work out any issued in a less costly material. I can also install and test the sub in an expendable cabinet. The finished boxes will be in a high grade veneer plywood. Gotta keep the wife happy, right?

I'm attaching a Sketchup file to show the plan so far. The top has been left off for easy viewing. Also, the braces have been omitted as I'm going to design them in my shop during the build. Please forgive the less than stellar drawing as I'm new to Sketchup. It should give you the idea though...

Any advice, thoughts, observations, questions, etc are always welcome. I'll also be posting lots of photos of the build.

Atomic batteries to power, turbines to speed, here we go...
 

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Elite Shackster
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It is an unusual design. You will need to ensure you pad the box out with something as you may get a resonance issue with such a slim box. It should work ok though, I built a couple like this last year and they were great once complete. Can you attach your win ISD model?
 

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Elite Shackster
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Your model looks ok to me given your restrictions. One question though, how much space do you have behind these boxes, just they look designed to go into an alcove or something rather than being free front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The "back" or angled side will be be up against, but not quite touching a short (3' high) knee wall. The driver side will be facing out, away from the seating. The long side will be next to the seating with the port exiting behind the backs. The short front side will be facing the front of the room. I'll attach a sketch of the room for reference.
 

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Elite Shackster
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As long as the port exits arent blocked then all will be ok. For ease of construction, as well as better flow through the port, I would put the ports firing forwards personally. I can understand you may not want to see them though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My only thinking for the rear port is to give the seating a sort of "kick in the pants" feel. I'm more than willing to move the port to the front of the box, especially if the sound quality is improved. I can cover them with grill cloth if the WAF is not met.

Should I move the port to the top or bottom of the box?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm attaching a revised version with the port in the front. The top is omitted on this one too.
 

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Elite Shackster
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That looks better to me personally. The air in the port acts like a slug till it meets the ends. A bend is fine, but bending so close to the port exit would IMO potentially cause some turbulence. I think the front ported design will be better in this respect, as well as maximising the space behind the driver. I slightly modified your model to show the port as it should be, your model looked like the port was blocked. I havent checked or altered any dimensions.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thank you!

Sometimes I tend to over complicate things for no apparent reason. :coocoo:

I think your solution is much more elegant and simple and I'll certainly use it. Ooooo cool, now I get to go and add a 3/4" round over bit to my collection. I feel a Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor moment approaching.

BTW, I have the carcass pieces rough cut. I'll finish the bracing today and post pictures of the finished components before the glue up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
OK, finally, at long last, after station identification, and with out further delay, no really, I mean it this time, we have the build pics. :bigsmile:

All the pieces prior to dry fit.


Onward and upward to the dry fit.










 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well fancy that everything fits together...not sure how that happened.

Phase two. Glue up ahead, do not pass go, do not collect $200.00.





Just add some clamps...











...and more clamps and an errant caul.


 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you! I'll post a few more pictures in a bit...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, "in a bit" turned into tomorrow. I'm nearing the end of the first box build. All I have left is to seal the seams and mount the hardware. Seems funny to build a box, test it, and if it works throw it away. But it's all in the name of science, progress, truth, justice, and the American way right? :yay:

The top is glued on, cauls on top.
1.JPG


3/4 front view.
2.JPG


3/4 front view after sanding and rounding over all of the edges.
4.JPG


Driver side after sanding and rounding over the edges.
5.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK, I do have a question for the "Gurus of Subwooferage". I'm having trouble finding a Reckhorn B-2. CSS seems to be out of stock. Should I wait and run the sub at low power levels while waiting on the B-2 or just buy the B-1 and be done with it?

It really comes down to how much of an improvement the B-2 is over the B-1. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It needs to be 18 HZ.
 
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