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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have to recone/repair an Eclipse 12" sub with a mutilated coil, and an Alpine Type S 10" DVC with a blown tinsel lead.

Both subs have a single piece cone... how to I keep the coil aligned, especially when the spider was cut unevenly (both)? I'll try to epoxy the rest of the spider before putting the whole cone/coil/suspension assembly together before I finally put it back on the basket, but, how do I properly align a single piece cone sub?

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And I have another problem. I have a JL w0 10" (the newest model), and got it for cheap ($20). I brought it home, and it made a slight buzzing noise on low volume. When I turned it up, it went away (or it was nicely masked). Sounded like a wire or two was loose on the coil. Still perfectly usable and very nice sounding. A little epoxy will fix right up, right?

Wrong. I opened up the driver to find nothing wrong with the coil. I "fixed" it with epoxy, and let it set overnight. I plugged it back in.

PLPRLPRLRPLRPLRPLPRPLPLR!!!!!

It sounds close to a square wave, even though the coil and everything is aligned. No coil scratch either, which is strange.

I killed a perfectly good 10" subwoofer, before I ever put it in a box! What do I do with it? I have a half working subwoofer that I'll never use. It has a nice coil, moves a lot, and still has linear movement. There's just a loud mysterious noise coming from the inside, and I'll probably do more damage than good if I try to fix it again. And I don't have it in me to put a sub in the dump when it has a working coil.

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So, how do I re-cone an Eclipse? They don't have re-cones for Eclipse's lower end, not to mention a guy at a stereo shop said that Eclipse is out of business.

I was thinking about carefully making a voice coil former out of aluminum from a soda can and then using epoxy to hold it together and to keep the coil on there. The epoxy I have can handle 300 °F, is that good enough?

And I was thinking about playing a low volume tone to help align the coil while the epoxy dries on the Alpine.

Thanks in advance!
 

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This site might help you with re-conning the sub. To align the voice coil you should use shims to keep an equal space between the voice coil former and the magnet. Since your spiders are cut unevenly make sure that they won't pull the voice coil former off center after you glue it. Keeping everything aligned starts from getting the spider and voice coil former centered and then you center the cone and surround off of that.
As for your JL w0 you probably need to just inspect it very closely to make sure there are no defects at all on it. For re-coning the Eclipse sub I would try to find parts for another speaker that match what you need for your application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you!

However, the Alpine's coil won't come off of the cone, and there is no dust cap to remove because it's a single piece cone. Would it be a bad idea to cut through the cone itself?

As for the JL w0, it has messy epoxy all over the surrounds... I'd have to mutilate it further if I wanted to do anything with it because I already put it back together (poorly). Is there anything I could use to remove the epoxy?
 

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For the Alpine sub I wouldn't cut through the cone before exhausting all other resources. I don't have much experience with the single-piece cones, but I would venture to guess that the voice coil former is glued to the opposite side of the cone. If that is true, you could try to cut the former from the cone. If you can't find anything else that would work and you want to cut through the cone, cut the cone so the former will fit in the hole. Then you can just but a dust cap to cover it when you are done.
As for shimming the voice coil former, you can shim it on the inside when you are just attaching it and the spider, but if you don't cut into the cone you can try to shim it from the outside of the former when attaching the cone. To shim from the outside I would keep the shims inside the former and then find something that will work on the outside without forcing. This way the former won't move from it's position you originally set by shimming on the inside. Then just glue the cone and surround on. In not the best writer so if this seems confusing just ask.
For removing the epoxy from the JL w0 I have heard that you can heat it up to around 90°C and it will become pliable, which probably won't work for a speaker, also if you freeze it, it can become brittle and shatter when struck. One other option is using acid, but that may damage the surround. You can always try just cutting it away though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For the JL, there's just too many jagged cuts through the surround. There's no way I could piece it together and retain the T/S parameters. The epoxy dramatically stiffened the suspension, both the spider and the surround. Unless I find get ahold of raw speaker parts, it's gone. Luckily, it's the new 2011 model, so I got a new one for $70 :).

As for the Alpine, I was successful in gettin the former off the cone. There was a plastic piece cconnecting the former to the cone, and I can't cut through that. But the backside of the Alpine's cone was paper, so I just had to use a letter opener, and some finger-grease (a pun on elbow grease).

Once I get some more epoxy, I'll begin the recone the Alpine.

Thanks for the input, I'm off to get the epoxy!
 
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