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Discussion Starter #1
Just a quick question, I have a Onkyo 605 receiver with Audyssey 2EQ. I have been thinking about getting a sub eq, like the SVS EQ1, but I really don't want to spend $700 on a eq for a $600 sub. I am adding superchunk basstraps to help smooth out the bass reponse. So instead of spending on a sub eq would it be better to sell the 605 and get something with Audyssey Multi EQ XT? I had also looked at the Anti Mode 8033, but have read some don't like it because it doesn't blend with Audyssey and Audyssey does its corrections and then Anti Mode trys to eq what Audyssey just did.
 

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You will have to step on up to get the XT version of MultEQ, but you would also get more power and features, which you may or may not really need.

Have you measured your sub response with REW and is the 2EQ doing anything for you at present?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am looking at the Onkyo 876 right now. I've done the sub crawl but I am limited were I can put the sub right now, I have a null from 50-70hrz. I was using DVE calibration disk and was going just by ear. I had looked into REW but its too complicated and it would be probably at least $200 just for that. I could use the extra power of the 876. Speakers are fairy efficienct, Axiom M22s, Vp150 and M2s. But adding room treatments, I will need the extra power to play at the levels I had been without putting to much strain on the 605.
 

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I can tell you that it is impossible to measure your response by ear... it ain't gonna happen in this lifetime. If you happen to get it right, it will be merely luck... coincidence.

You need to at least invest in an SPL meter so that you can measure your sub response and see what is happening. You can get the Radio Shack ones for about 50 bucks or so. You may find a used one for less. You can then use the manual measurement method outlined in the BFD Guide.

A couple of cables later and a step by step walk thru of the REW Help Files and you can be using REW for more accuracy.

You really need to do this before you decide on whether to upgrade your receiver or not.

The room treatments should not effect the amount of power you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I though about getting a radio shack SPL, but someone told me that it is not accurate at the low frequencies. So I posted on another forum about REW and they said "REW is complicated and it would not be cheap about $200-$300 for a working REW setup that is accurate at low freqs". I figured by the time I invest all that I could just look around for a Velodyne SMS1 to help with the low freqs. What I was listening too by ear on the DVE was the 15hrz-300hrz test tones. Ears started feeling pressure at 17hrz and it sound good till about 50-55hrz and couldn't hardly hear anything till 75hrz, so I figure the room has a null in the seating area at those freqs. I had read that for one sub Multi EX XT is almost as good as the SVS Eq, but more than one its better than multi xt.
 

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If you're looking to correct peaks and nulls at a listening position, you may be able to do so simply by moving your sub around. But you will need a tool like REW to do so accurately.

Entry Level REW setup:
Computer with Line in - Assuming you already own.
If you computer doesn't have line in (many laptops), you'll need a $30 USB soundcard.
Radio Shack meter $45
Misc cables from monoprice $20
Software = Free

Total Cost $95

Even going with an ECM8000 Mic and 802 mixer instead of the Radioshack SPL meter will be under $200. Need EQ? Get the FBD for another $100. You'll be hard pressed to get better performance for the money, ad you'll learn a lot in the process.

There is no magic bullet. Even MultEQ and the Velodyne unit work best when everything is properly positioned, and supported by room treatments.
 

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REW is really not that complicated. We offer correction values for the RS meters so that they will be about as accurate as anything else in the lower range.

The initial setup is almost a must to know what your response is. An 80Hz tone at the same level as a 30Hz tone will sound faint. Trying to figure it out by ear is all guessing. Regardless though, most do have issues somewhere in the low end that can use some correction. It is always nice to know if what you choose to use to correct is actually working or not... and there just ain't no way to do that without at least getting an initial setup gig for 100 bucks or less.

A couple of things to keep in mind. Acoustical treatments are generally going to help more from 80Hz on up... and even then it takes some serious treatments to effect that 80-125Hz area. Below the 80Hz mark, electronic equalization devices will usually give you more bang for your buck. If you cannot afford the SVSound SubEQ, then forget the SMS-1, because you want find one of those for less than $500 or so... maybe a little less used if you get lucky and find one somewhere. Still... with any of these, there is a learning curve of some sort that you are going to have to deal with. It is actually a bit fun once you get to tinkering with it though.

You can upgrade your receiver, sure. The 876 is a nice one... the one I actually own. Those things seem to have gotten a bit high lately... from an authorized dealer that is. I may sell mine reasonably if you want one like new at a good deal, with warranty. I have been looking at the Denon 4310. At any rate, you can buy one and use the MultEQ XT, but you never truly know what it is doing and if it is helping unless you measure it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Well if its going to be better I guess I can get the ECM8000 Mic and the 802 mixer not sure what the 802 is though and I'll get the FBD. So that combo should do everything I need instead of the SMS1 or any of the other sub eqs right? It will probably be another month before I can invest in all that just order 12 2" panels of 703 for the bass traps then I will go from there. Thanks everyone you guys have been very helpful. Oh will this sound card work? http://www.soundblaster.com/products/product.asp?category=209&subcategory=669&product=15854&nav=0 And setting up everything like this diagram will that automatically give me a graph on the PC of freq respone? I have to drill a hole in the wall to run the cables into the next room for the computer.
 

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That sound card should work fine, consider moving the computer temporarily rather than drilling holes, you can start with the RS meter rather than investing in the mic/mixer, and yes, that diagram is correct except that you only attached the loopback when initially calibrating the soundcard, and you obviously won't have the BFD to begin with.
 
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