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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've browsed this forum forever, but I just now finally joined and thought I would post up my project. Originally I built this transmission line enclosure for a cheap 15" sub. I havent had a chance yet to test the paremeters for this enclosure, but I think it should be somewhat universal.

The enclosure is 59"x24.5"x16.25". The channel is 15" wide, about 11" deep and about 114" long. ED seems to have shut down, which is where I had all my dimensions stored :(.

Im currently re-finishing the enclosure and will update with some progress pics shortly. My theater is bare without this beast parked up front. I can add photos of that too later.

I would like some input from you guys if you think the 390hf is a good candidate for the t-line. Or if I should cap the rear vent and make it an 11 cubic foot ported enclosure?

(have to make 5 posts before I can share any pics it looks like)
 

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I'm not sure about the HF, although I just built an ported enclosure for my HO. I'm at work so I don't have any software to run this but Im sure you could make the HF work in a large ported box like you have.
If you want to post pictures and get your count up there is a thread on here for post padding. I just don't remember were it is. I'd like to see some pictures of your setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well my understanding is the HF likes even bigger boxes than the HO. I have yet to do anything in WINisd since it seems Im always at work. But at 11 cubic feet I feel like I can create just about whatever the sub needs. If the 1/4 wave doesnt work well Im sure ported would.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmm, I can't seem to open that file. Was really anxious to see what you came up with.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks man, looks like port velocity is on the high side. Might have to grab my laptop on lunch and play with it a bit. Been a almost 3 years since I originally built this box so I will have to re-learn on the t-line stuff to see if thats an option still.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Haha, let me see what I have stored here.

messy, everythings thrown in quick here


in progress

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k27/drifte/Audio Builds/afa6a703.jpg?t=1334153055
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k27/drifte/Audio Builds/ba0c263f.jpg?t=1334153055


Recent work on it was just refinishing it. Removed the wheels because I now have it laying on its side and the center channel is on top of it. I put some 2"x1.5" feet on the bottom. In the process of a lot of sanding.

Im also in the process of an equipment rack, and a vanity for the wife. So Im stretched a bit getting things done. Router has completely died on me, so the idea of a fancy face plate is out.
 

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Thats a nice space. Do you have an overall plan or are you just sub building right now? That is a pretty large box, Im not sure about the whole TL enclosure though. It looks like it could be made into ported easy if thats what you wanted to do.
I know how projects can get crazy. I've got about five projects in the wood shop that need to be done before the holidays! Some for family, some paid jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll just take some new pics tonight, things have moved around a little. The rear couch is going on some bed risers for the insignia 75w 6.5" subs. In my basement they cant be heard at all over the mains. But when attached to the couch you can really feel them. Bestbuy had a 1 deal a day and they were $20 instead of $90. I have two. Once the drivers give out I'll use the plate amps in them to run some "bass shakers."

my setup is far from ideal The room is about twice as long as you can see in the pic, the duct work interferes with making the screen larger and surround placement. I have a chance now to look at it in winisd now so I'll see how it comes together.
 

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I wish I had a basement! I'm limited to my /family/playroom/HT room.
Is there space behind the walls or are they at least framed out with 2x4s? Dayton makes some impressive in wall speakers. I just installed some as surrounds last month and even at high volume they sound pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Basements framed out, the rear surrounds are in the ceiling though. Projector HDMI cable is hanging from the ceiling in the picture. My current projector isnt HDMI...so its sitting on the coffee table.

Some filler work. When I built this originally it needed to be done for a halloween party. And since it functioned fine I never bothered to finish it. Then that $40 boss 15" started smoking..so here we are.

Here it is with 4 of the 6 feet on. Hard to see the top 3 as they are already black. Partially primed here.


And an interesting pic I found on my phone.

Game day in the garage. Frame of the Boss 15 on the shelf.
 

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That projector rig is sweet! :rofl:
Surrounds sound alot better if just at or above ear level. In my old HT I had 7.1 and they were all ceiling mounted. When I rebuild I went down to 5.1 (seating is againt the wall) and mounted the surrounds right and left about a foot above listening position and sound is soooo different :yikes:.
I say built the sub ported but the experts on here might have better ideas.

Edit: It appears we are missing some of your images.
Also I changed the Winisd screen shots a little in my previous post so people can see them better.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Well on the free winisd version anyway A quick check gives me these numbers:

11.2 cubic foot box
2x 4"x 17" ports
flat response to 20hz, -3db at 15(ish)hz.

The 1/4 wave stuff is so complicated I almost want to just throw some ports in. But I have to atleast check it out. But as simplified as I can make it for a quick test means the box is tuned for 30hz due to its length. (It was originally made just for a party sub) Thats not taking the speaker into consideration at all just 1130/30=37.6/4=9.4' long. 9.41' is a 1/4 of the wave length of 30hz. My enclosure is 9' 8" in length.

Any one with more knowledge who can suggest I do ported of 1/4 wave or vise versa?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Oh no I didnt, just quick and dirty (had to input the measurements for winisd anyway). Not sure if I should leave that full middle section in if I add ports..or what I should do. Ported is looking better, but the seperation made for it to be a t-line may play a roll in how ports can be added.
 

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With the driver removed would it be possible to remove some of that internal structor to allow more movement inside the enclosure? Just behind were the driver will mount. After that you could, through your current TL opening add the ports to the top of the box and then clsoe up the box. Atleast thats how i think I would approach that project. Photobucket not working for me right now. Here is the lovely MS paint version of what Im talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yea thats pretty much what I had in mind too. As I can only really reach the center baffle from the driver or port opening. I wonder if placing the ports on the opposite end would be better then? Im just full of questions.

Thanks for all your help
 

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Not sure if placing ports at the other end really matters :blink:. From what I have been told in the past by others is that it does not.
You might be able to figure out some way to prebuild the port ends that will go down into the cabinet with MDF and flair the ends and glue then to the side for support.
 
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