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RSS390HO build

18280 Views 59 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  BP1Fanatic
6
Just a little info on my build.
Currently I am using an older model 200 watt amp to power this so I’ll not be completely satisfied until a more power appropriate amp is purchased. The project was only approved if I could make it appear as an end table in our living/HT/Kids play room in accordance with the wife. It will be down firing and be finished in red oak since it’s locally available to me. I didn’t take as many pictures as I should have and am missing one of the final bracing. I will do more of the finishing and listen impressions once I get a larger amp (recommendations welcome). This is my first attempt at a HT sub.
Outside box dimensions are 20.75x24x24
After driver and bracing and port volume subtracted I have about 4.40 cu.
Ports are 4”x31” with what I’d call semi flared ends.
Double 1.5” front baffle with posted mounted just above the driver.
Driver on the work bench.

Current weak amp being used to test.

One brace and ports installed. A rounded edge circle of MDF was used to create a "flare" at the end of the tube. And alot more bracing was installed. This is were I had my picture failure.

I could not wait to test the driver. Here it is in some sloppy bondo.:whistling:

Veneer...


This is were I'm at now. I'll be trying to finish it up this weekend and post more pics.
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Here is the WinISO file.

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That's your first sub build??? That looks very nice. Feel like building a cabinet for me? :D
Thanks for the complement Jim!
Well....I have built some carpeted car sub boxes about 20 years ago when I was in high school but its been a while. And I also build wooden kids toys so I have some wood working experience.
I have to say the veneer is starting to agitate me a bit. I was back out in the shop tonight and there are some small spots that are not adhering to the mdf:huh:. I heated them up and rolled them down again. I'll check on them a little later tonight. Trim, legs, top and poly this weekend I hope.
That's a good looking sub for a first build! Regarding your amp, that's from a Radio Shack, Optimus brand, Pro SW-200P. It has a hi-pass filter at 35 hz. (orange line)

A bash 500 amp would be ideal for your sub, It will open up a whole new world for you! (green line)

Oscilloscope Line Text Slope Technology
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Thanks for the comparison Mike! I was looking at the 500w plate amps and was not sure about the Bash or the Dayton. I figured 500w was enough for my design and for my 13x19 space that this sub will be in. Correct me if you think otherwise. Is there any advantage to either plate amp?
With 500 watts you're at Xmax plus any room gain you get will add to the bottom end. As for amps, the Dayton sometimes has hum issues while the Bash is rock solid.
So I see you have binding posts on the enclosure between the driver and the ports, are you going to use a stand alone amp or ?? how are you going to use another plate amp or why would you go with a plate amp with what looks like a passive sub? Or am I just missing something?
I'll explain my idea and see what you think.
The plate amp will be mounted to a stand that I will make in my AV cabinet. Speaker cable has already been run under the house from the AV location to the sub tables location and threw the floor(14'). It’s pretty much comes right through were the post are on the sub, that way no visible cables. My reason for picking a plate amp is cost. Budget is low and its only going to get worse as it get close to the holidays (kids). If there is a 500w amp with a good built in filter for less than $250 point me to it.
I didn't put the amp in the sub enclosure because of space and structure worries.
Anyway....that’s my plan.
That's making more sense now. I thought I was going crazy and checked your pics like a hundred times looking at the binding posts!

I would think the only thing you would need to worry about is the passive cooling on a plate amp. Usually their guts are inside the enclosure and are getting some air movement to assist the heat sinks. However, I would also think that a well designed plate amp would have been designed with worst case in mind, i.e. no ventilation except on the heat sink. Just make sure it will have access to cool ambient air that isn't stagnant, like what would be found in the back of your av cabinet. Post a thread on the amp mounting when you do it, it sounds like a cool idea! :T
I've thought alot about cooling.
Currently my cabinet is enclosed and I know thats going to be an issue. Its built into a fireplace book shelf and dose not have any vents yet. Currently I just leave the doors open when watching a movie but with small kids around I need to find a better solution. My idea is to vent the top with some type of slot cutout. The amp mount I have in my head would not have a back to it so air movement would be good. Right now its a bit of a mess and I don't want to post any pics untill I get to where I need to be. A new revicer is also in the works but is not going to happen before the holidays. Right now I just want to get this sub finished so I can start on my much needed center channel.
I've thought alot about cooling.
Currently my cabinet is enclosed and I know thats going to be an issue. Its built into a fireplace book shelf and dose not have any vents yet. Currently I just leave the doors open when watching a movie but with small kids around I need to find a better solution. My idea is to vent the top with some type of slot cutout. The amp mount I have in my head would not have a back to it so air movement would be good. Right now its a bit of a mess and I don't want to post any pics untill I get to where I need to be. A new revicer is also in the works but is not going to happen before the holidays. Right now I just want to get this sub finished so I can start on my much needed center channel.
Well it sounds like you've got your work cut out for you!

Are you going to make your center channel match the sub? That would look pretty cool since your sub design is pretty distinctive, but it sounds like you were having some trouble with the veneer, or did you get it to stay down?
After a few nights of going over the veneer it looks like I’m going to be ok....I hope.
The trim I’m going to add to the edges should help. My center channel is going to be black I think. The OS MTMs were painted tan to match the wood shelves that they are seated on. The center channel is going to sit on a fire place mantle below my TV and the fire place wall is a dark brown color. My wife’s approval on this project was that it be as transparent as possible. I think the center either being the same dark brown or black like the TV should work. I'll do a build thread for that once I get started. Once I've got all the speakers built and everything cleaned up I'll do a picture thread in the HT gallery section.

Egh....more bubbles in the veneer tonight.....heat it and try again.
thats some awesome work you have done.i bet they will sound great.
That looks awesome. :clap:
I clamped and built the top yesterday and late last night got to glued on the table. You cannot see it but there is a 1/4 rubber square that was a scrap from a new conveyor belt at the dock yard my brother worked at. I don't know how much good its going to do but hey....I tired. It is not visible from the outside of the table.
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Woodhammer looking good brother. I need to learn some skills from you. Nice work
Thanks!
I still have a lot of sanding to do. Maybe a bit more planning of the top.
The grain of the wood seams a little diluted in the pictures and its actually much prettier in person.
And hey, your only in VA. I used to hang out with friends in Richmond its about four hours away.
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