As I have been thinking of running two subs I will have to run each sub in series to give 2 ohms for each driver as they are D1 subs. This would mean I would have to run each channel of the behringer as 2 x 2 ohms, one for each sub. It quotes 1250 watts rms x2 into 2 ohms. Will this put any more pressure on my behringer compared to running 4 ohms bridged. Has anyone run them as 2 x 2 ohms to run two subs?
I wasn't sure if when you run 4 ohms bridge it simply is running the two seperate channels as 1 so it is effectively the same as using the two 2 ohms seperately but combine into one for bridged mode.
Theoretically, if everything is perfect, it is essentially the same. How amps handle bridging varies, however, and I would not make this assumption in all cases.
The amp will do 2 ohms in stereo, and rather than running the subs in series I would use the amp in stereo.
Thanks for that, I don't have any issues running my dual setup in 4 ohms bridged even at almost reference with no clipping so that should be fine then.
I would have to wire the subs in series to get 2 ohms, then wire that sub into channel 1 of the behringer and wire the other sub into channel 2 to get the stereo 2 ohm but in parrallel on the behringer.
Actually after reading the manual that is wrong, defo in stereo and not parrallel as it says in parrallel you only use one input gain to run both subs thus both subs will run at the same level and as they will be in different locations I may have to run at different levels to match up from the listening position. So stereo it is then.
Thanks matey. I am going to test my existing 13 cu ft sub as a single sub which should have a qtc of 0.795 instead of 0.930 to see if it sounds any better. Run some graphs to compare and if it does build two single subs and run them 2 ohms each.
and jsut to finish out the original question, running any amp at a lower Ohms will place more stress on it as it is easier to drive a higher ohm speaker. aka less heat.
but as far as reliability and usage you will be just fine running both subs in stereo off that amp at 2 ohms each. I ran mine bridged at 2 ohms (bad idea as thats 1 ohm per channel) and it soldiered through it. though now i have it at 2 ohms, one channel.
I run an EP4000 at 2 ohms stereo and although the air blowing out of it IS warmer than the EP4000 stacked on top of it that runs 4 ohms stereo I have zero issues with the 2 ohm stereo load. These Europower amps are tough - I own 4 of them and they seem pretty indestructible.
FWIW I'm running a 2 ohm load with my sub. Its only one one channel but the air being fired out is barely warm and there are no sign of stress I can detect, either in the audio signal or with the amp.
Maybe I just live in a cold house. My amp gets sightly warm, but thats about it. The air coming out is certainly keeping it cool, I know, I disconnected the fan to see how warm it would get and how quick, just so I know before swap the original noisy fan out.
I have never used a soldering iron before, sounds lame I know so I have been putting if off a bit to be honest. I guess it is ok once the fan is installed to turn the amp on with the cover off to make sure the fan is blowing in the correct direction.
cheers
No soldering iron necessary at all - I am comfortable w/solder iron but did not see need to use for the fan swap. I used electrical tape and a small piece of heat shrink tubing to wire in the new fan. I have seen the mod done with elec tape alone. Another easy solution is a crimp tool and a male + female plug from a garden variety electrical wiring connection kit - there are many easy ways to join the wire in. Don't put the job off the difference is huge and the work required to perform it is dead easy. Posted via Mobile Device
Which way you wire the fan isnt usually an issue, if you get it wrong the fan just spins the wrong way. To that end, just make sure the fan is spinning in the right direction before the cover goes back on. The issue isnt so much of one of whether the air is pushed or pulled, although pushed is better, but fan blades are designed to work one way and are much less efficient running the wrong way.
I realize this thread is a few months old, but I wanted to throw something in here for future people who may read this looking for info. Yes, 2 ohms in stereo to each channel and 4 ohms bridged is the same load on the amp. However, your distortion will go up (double, IIRC) when in bridged mode. Something to think about.
If you want to be extact two 2 ohm stereo loads is not the same load as 4 ohms bridged mono it is just that most of the time current demands for two 2 ohm stereo load are close enough as a single 4 ohm bridged mono load so people say they are the same.
Distortion (usually THD) won't change significatly enough between two the loads to be noticable.
Your amplifier see 2 ohms each side so at the end of the day the DF will be split so same same no gain no lost, also is DF is way overrated aka Crown with their 10000 DF, Labgruppen (very respected brand of power amp for touring) web site have a nice paper about this. http://www.labgruppenrepairs.co.uk/resources/Damp_factor_Technicalnote_02-11.pdf
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Home Theater Forum and Systems
742.3K posts
170.9K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to home theater owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about home audio/video, home theaters, troubleshooting, projects, DIY’s, product reviews and more!