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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought this 50" DLP TV in Dec. '05. It has worked well, until recently. I only had to the lamp replaced about 18 months ago. But it is now failing to power on, after 4 yr extended warranty expired in Dec. '09. RATS!

Over the last month or so, it began to show strange symtems: all in simple HD TV viewing. No games, etc. E.g., locked video, while audio is on, or no audio either in other times. And both resulted in locked control, i.e., pressing power button on the front did nothing, not even power off. So when I unplug the power cord, and waited 30+ seconds (as suggested in Samsung and others), it resetted and came back. After a week or so, however, that step did not resusitate it reliably - i.e., sometime it worked and other times, I had to try a few more times. Now that process does not work either. I replaced the lamp which I bought as an extra reserve; but it did not make difference. It became progressively worse and it no longer even power up. The lights indicated in the following sequence. When the power cord is plugged in, red "stand-by/temp" light comes on. When the round front power button is pressed, green "timer" light blinks once, then green "lamp" light blinks about 3 times, then red "stand-by/temp" light blinks once, then green "lamp" light blinks about 8 more times, but no A/V comes on; while you can see from the back that the lamp comes on and getting brighter over time, and you can hear fan runs. By this time there is no lamp lit or blinks, no A/V, and pressing the front round button does nothing. Then after a few minutes, it goes back to red "stand-by/temp", i.e., powered off. And other times, it simply locked up without even red light. All these seemed normal, except "lamp" light blinked about 3 times when A/V came alive when it used to function normally.

I have read several good threads re: DMD board suspect and correction, esp. by lcaillo and Jason 1976. I was very intrigued by http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...-problems.html thread. I posted a similar description as an add-on to another 5067 power off thread, but was advised to begin a new thread. After I gave up on this 5067. I unplugged it brough a smaller VIZIO out to view some sports over the weekend. Then I just plugged 5067 back in, and bingo, it worked again yesterday, all day long for ~8 hrs. straight; but then it died again last night and has not come back again. The only thing I tried while it was unplugged was to reseat the lamp, but I doubt if that made it work again for 8 hrs. and failed again for good. ! :huh:

I am not a TV tech, but a PC literate.
Is there other test steps I should take before trying this op?
P.S. I have also researched in CNET and posted.
Thank you in advance for your help!

Read more: HLR5067WAX/XAA shuts off - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com
 

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More likely a digital board than a DMD board, but without being there to diagnose it is impossible to give good advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your reply!
Would your or Tito's method for securing DNIe chip (described in the link http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/samsung/20791-hlr6167wax-xaa-digital-board-problems.html) be a good next step to try? I have some time and experiences on (non-BGA) board works; though I am inexperienced this particular chasis and board.

This board/chip seems to have track records of this coproblem even with replacement at $200+/- based on reading here, CNET and HD forums. Just calling for the closest repair shop (a NESDA member, 18 miles away) or Geek Squad seems to cost $150 just for diagnosys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I am very disappointed to report that pressing on DNIe chip with Tito's nifty set-up did not resolve my problem. In fact, even before this surgery attempt, TV came back alive and worked 12+ hrs. I had it keep running without powering off overnight, and it stayed working until my wife turned it off at 2 PM. I turned it on right away and it worked, but in about 20 min. it did the same thing. So I decided to do the procedure.
One additional information update to Tito's photo and good description is the location where the bold to be placed for the closest to the center of the DNIe chip is 1.5 inch from each side.
My DNIe chip felt solid in both viewing and touch. But I decided to apply firm pressure with the device, to no avail as described at the beginning of this report.

This leaves me the last option for color wheel, but it seems to be a crab shoot, or try and hope approach, and I am unsure if I want to spend $'s in that approach.

What are your thoughts/ideas, if any?
 

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The pressure trick doesn't work that long. Your better off buying a new board or sending it off to have it repaired by the guy on the web page that does the reflowing. Now he is reballing and doing other repairs to these boards. He also says he offers a warranty on the repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Jason for your reply!
With all due respect, I wonder if the faulty part is the board, since the pressure trick didn't effect at all. And after being unplugged over night, it worked 20+ hr. straight before returning to this condition. Do you all think it is still the digital board?:scratch:
I have also noted that as TV powers up and down, there's increasing wheezing fan noise. First I thought it is the main cooling fan, but I now wonder if it is the color wheel making noise. Though when it works, the image is still good. It did not show any indications for color wheel to date. How can I determine it is not?:huh:
What I am trying to avoid is spending more significant $'s on this failing unit. I am unhappy that it costed me $2K and lasted < 5 yrs. There seem to be sales for new 50" Plasma or LED lit LCD at ~$1200. But money is tight and I shouldn't spend it on the luxury items, so goes my doubt and struggle.
I do appreciate your advices. Please let me hear your suggestions.:help:
 

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If you read more in that topic. You will see were people didnt have luck with the pressure trick and It was still the digital board. Other people had luck with unplugging them and then plugging them back in making them work good for a short time. Try the Pic in pic and when the rest of the screen is messed up the Pic in Pic should look normal. The menu's show up normal. If so then It's the digital board. Also If you try the VGA port the video should look normal. The same with the HDMI port, but after so long the HMDI port starts to have the green plaid. If you have a VGA cable from a computer monitor that is removable give it a try.

Another question. Do you hear the Samsung start up sound? Just an fyi the digital board is like the brains of the tv. It controls the onscreen video. It controls if the tv boots up. It's also a high failure part in this model.




Thanks Jason for your reply!
With all due respect, I wonder if the faulty part is the board, since the pressure trick didn't effect at all. And after being unplugged over night, it worked 20+ hr. straight before returning to this condition. Do you all think it is still the digital board?:scratch:
I have also noted that as TV powers up and down, there's increasing wheezing fan noise. First I thought it is the main cooling fan, but I now wonder if it is the color wheel making noise. Though when it works, the image is still good. It did not show any indications for color wheel to date. How can I determine it is not?:huh:
What I am trying to avoid is spending more significant $'s on this failing unit. I am unhappy that it costed me $2K and lasted < 5 yrs. There seem to be sales for new 50" Plasma or LED lit LCD at ~$1200. But money is tight and I shouldn't spend it on the luxury items, so goes my doubt and struggle.
I do appreciate your advices. Please let me hear your suggestions.:help:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jason, it took me awhile to read almost all pages of that long(est) thread. Thanks again for your continued replies! I have also noted your posting in CNET. I have been a member there awhile, though for PC, etc.
I have also read "--- digital board reflow" though its last post was in Jan.
I can see the home-made type repairs with clamping or alcohol burning did not work long consistently. Now my choice seems to be reflow at JD $75 or better yet gpumedics.com at $65 including their return shipping here => http://cgi.ebay.com/Samsung-BP94-01...74?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5e8301e6; + ~$15 for my shipping. They claim to test the board after repair, etc. and located in IL. (I guess this post can be moved to DB reflow.)

Buying a digital board from SamsungParts at $251+ tax + $12 S&H =~$300 (-$50 core value) is questionable. Shouldn't I spend that and buy newer unit now < $800 on sale.

One querstion I need to ask for DB replacement: when I get no video even for service menu, how may I store/transfer settings from Digital to DMD? I think NOT; but am I missing something? (mute, 182, power does nothing for me now, with no Video what so ever.)

Len C.: how is J&K Electronics in Houston, a NESDA member's reputation in your circle?
see http://houstontvsales.com/ I have more questions but it needs to be a separate thread.

Thanks again to you all! This saga seems to continue to many more of us.
 

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I don't know them. My first place to try in the Houston area would be The Video Repair Place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@Len C: Thanks for that referral! That shop is at the opposite side of town, almost half way to Galveston; ~2.5 hr drive one way. I have a few friends near there, so I will keep it in my list. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Although it is a mute point, I feel compelled to report and share that, my TV came back alive ~ noon yesterday, first inconsistenly (a few frozen V with no A, etc. then followed with while ~4" horizonal band flashing a sec or two, ended up in scrambled pixilation, finally into a faint scattered star fielf) then just before I was about to give up. It came back in full strength ~12:30 PM and stayed on ever since. I asked my wife not to touch it, like she did last time. :nono: Note that I still have the same clamp in it and nothing else was done other than being unplugged.

I am still waiting for GPU Medic to respond to my inquiry, probably tomorrow, Monday.
In the meantime, I am just going to not to turn TV for quite awhile and see what it does.:sweat: I have also found more reflow testimonies, using regular convection ovens and toaster ovens even, in Tom's Hardware site and others. :rubeyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
For final report for closing this thread...
I filed the complaint to NJAG as was suggested on the other thread, and had received the acknowledgement for NJAG. Several weeks passed during which I had to contemplate these reflow options as well as light engine replacement possibility. Samsung USA finally contacted me and offer to replace this with newer unit at discounted price. After a couple of iteration, we reached a decent and fair nuetral ground for Samsung plasma model PN50C550G. It has been working well for me. So patience and persistance eventually paid off, I think. Thank you all who responded and helped me go through this ordeal towards a decent final solution.
Now I am ready to replace my aged and syfunctional HT receiver. I will read through the appropriate threads and post as applicable. So long colleagues...
 

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wow. They just told me touch luck that the tv was made in 2005 and was out of warranty and nothing they could do. I would of been happy with that option if they gave me a good price.
 
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