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Discussion Starter #1
I am having this same problem too with my HLR5667W. First I will give a background on what I have done so far. Initially I was getting the dreaded green checkerboard pattern on the analog channels, and the picture freezing on the digital channels that has been so prevalent in these sets, and after researching I determined that it was a bad digital board. Before I had a chance to replace the board the lamp went, completely blew. So I ordered a replacement lamp, but it's not a Phillips brand and I'm not sure off the top of my head who makes it. Anyway, after replacing the lamp the picture looked great and even lost the problem of the picture freezing for a while. Then it started again but not as frequent so I lived with it until it shut itself off one day. When I would turn it back on it would start up and the picture would come in nice and bright for about 15-30 seconds and then go black. I would have audio for another 10 seconds or so until it would completely shut down with all three lights blinking on the front. So I broke down and ordered a new digital board and replaced the old one. Fired up the TV, flipped the horizontal so the picture wasn't backwards and my picture came in nice and clear - for about 30 seconds when it did the same thing again. So I am at a loss as to what the problem might be now and I don't necessarily want to keep replacing parts that aren't going to fix the issue. Anyone have some suggestions on what I could try? Thanks!

Sean
 

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Where did you buy your parts?
 

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Your post has been moved to a more appropriate location to make information easier to find and to make it more likely that others who are interested will find your post.
 

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I also moved your posts from the other thread and deleted the duplicate.

My first thought would be that the lamp is still not right. Most servicers learned early on not to trust any but the most reliable suppliers of OEM parts. I would be checking the power supply to the ballast and observing what happens with the lamp enable line from the DMD to see if the lamp is going out or if it is being turned off by syscon.
 

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I also moved your posts from the other thread and deleted the duplicate.

My first thought would be that the lamp is still not right. Most servicers learned early on not to trust any but the most reliable suppliers of OEM parts. I would be checking the power supply to the ballast and observing what happens with the lamp enable line from the DMD to see if the lamp is going out or if it is being turned off by syscon.
Thanks for the reply Leonard. So how would I go about doing what you suggest for the power supply and the lamp enable line?

Sean
 

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Measure the voltages with a DMM. The lamp enable is a pulsed line and I would use a scope to monitor it, but you may be able to see a difference with a DMM.
 

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It is hard to do much with without a decent multimeter. You can usually get by without a scope. A meter can be had cheap and I recommend everyone trying to DIY have one.
 

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Yesterday I removed the back panel to see what was going on when my set was powering up. I held down the little blue switch for the lamp door and plugged it in, and when it started up the lamp buzzed and flickered for a moment before obtaining a steady light and progressing to full brightness. At which point it abruptly turned back off. It actually reminded me of the regular old florescent overhead lights that flicker and buzz when you turn them on. My question is - should the lamp flicker and buzz like that when it's starting up or is it supposed to come on quietly with a steady light? I'm hoping this may help isolate where the problem may be.

Sean
 

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You should hear a buzz at start-up. The arc is struck by applying high voltage pulses which drop down to a few hundred volts when running. Flickering...not much. Once the arc strikes it should be a rather continuous increasing brightness.

You could have a bad lamp, a power supply issue, or a problem with the ballast. Without making some measurements just about all you can do is look for obvious problems like swollen caps and guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You should hear a buzz at start-up. The arc is struck by applying high voltage pulses which drop down to a few hundred volts when running. Flickering...not much. Once the arc strikes it should be a rather continuous increasing brightness.

You could have a bad lamp, a power supply issue, or a problem with the ballast. Without making some measurements just about all you can do is look for obvious problems like swollen caps and guess.
Well I have some new information now. The other day when I was tinkering around with the lamp switch I decided to clean out the inside of the cabinet of dust. I took out all of the components and vacuumed them off, and then did the same for the cabinet shell, then put it all back together. I didn't notice any swollen caps on my ballast or power supply and everything looked good. After I got it back together I turned it on again and lo and behold it worked!! I was shocked but happy. And it has worked great for the past week and a half....until yesterday when it shut itself off again in the middle of a show. I unplugged/plugged it and tried to restart it but this time when it starts up I get sound but no picture, the lamp won't even light. I'm hesitant to say it's the lamp because it's only 3 months old and the TV wasn't working for two of them.

Anyway I bought a multimeter yesterday to see if I can determine if I have a bad power supply or ballast. I was hoping someone might be able to provide me with some instructions on exactly how I would do that. I don't know where/what to poke at in order to test it properly. If anyone has any instructions, pictures, link to a YouTube video, etc., that might help it would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping to get this working before the Super Bowl. Thanks!

Sean
 

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Ok, just to give a new update on what I've done so far. Since the TV last stopped working I was troubleshooting it and listening closely to it as it started. It really looked like the lamp was having a hard time getting lit but it would eventually light up for about 10 seconds before shutting down. When it would shut down I could hear the color wheel slowing down and making a slight rubbing sound. So it sounded like the bearings in my color wheel were starting to go and that it was having trouble spinning up to, and maintaining, its speed which was causing the lamp to not light. So I ordered a new color wheel and put it in and fired it up but it still did the same thing. Picture came on for about 10 seconds before the lamp died, then I would have about another 10 seconds of sound with no picture before it shuts off. Then it tries to recycle again before giving up and displaying the three lights.

So now I'm back to trying to figure out if the ballast or the power supply is bad. As I mentioned, I bought a multimeter per the previous recommendation but I'm not really sure how to use it or where I need to "stick it" to get the correct reading. Can anyone out there please provide some guidance on exactly what I would need to do for testing this with a multimeter? Pictures or video would be great as well! Thanks!
 

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There is a large connector from the power supply to the ballast where you can measure the input to the ballast. It should be at least 290v. Do not try to measure anywhere that you are not certain of as you may damage your meter or yourself. Get a service manual and a schematic before trying to service any set and know what voltages should be where.

Look for puffy caps in the power supply and ballast and start by monitoring the outputs from the power supply to be sure the problem is not there.
 

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Do not pay for a service manual...

It took me a few minutes to find this and the site is a tricky moo but when you really look for it the pdf opens right up. Most of these places try to get you to click on a link that looks like a download and this one is no exception.
Go to
http://elektrotanya.com/samsung_hlr4667w_hlr5067w_hlr5667w_hlr6167w_chassis_l64c_sm.pdf/download.html


Near the bottom there is the words in smaller type Get manual in maroon click on this and the service manual will download. Not sure why they try to be so sneaky but it's the real deal and was important in solving my problem with a HL-R5667W :wave:

It worked and the service manual was mostly greek to me :blink: but it helped me through some problems.
 
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