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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys,

Just started the man cave. got my panny ax200 on friday, i like it a lot. I am painting right now, the room is going to be dark grey. I am sitting about 13'6" from the screen, do to room size.

the room is 14'6" x 17'6". I purchased a piece of WA fashion gray. I want to make a sceen about 110".
What is the best way to hang, or frame the WA? I like the idea I saw with the rope lights just behind the edge of the frame? What should I use for backing on the Wa?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I already got the rope lights and wired an outlet to a remote control dimmer switch. It works great right now, just can't wait to get it on a frame.
 

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Welcome to the Shack Chad!

I'd build the frame out of 1X4" hardwood. Put a couple of supports in the middle. One thing I would do differently if I were to do it again would be to seal the wood completely before assembly. I never suffered any warping problems but it's always better to be safe than sorry. For a 110" screen I'd put a couple of vertical supports equally spaced in the middle of the frame. I'd also add a corner brace to each corner. Make the frame larger than necessary so that you can attach your black velvet trim pieces to it from behind.

For the rope lighting, I added a 1X2 bump out. The french cleat hangs under and inside the top of this. Put the bump out close to the edge as I found putting the lights in too close loses the effect. And put soft bumpers on this whole frame so you don't ding up your wall!

Attach your laminate to the edges only! Attaching to the center pieces will result in possible waves.

Attach the black velvet trim from the backside with screws that won't penetrate through. :T
 

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Discussion Starter #4
did you attach the laminate anything like luyan or any other substrate before attaching to frame? how did you attach to the frame, screws, adhesive?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mech,

I think I got the frame you discussed figured out with bump out and cleats. How did you make the balck trim?
 

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Laminate attaches to frame via adhesive:



Velvet is stapled to 1X3 maple. I used butt joints for this but you can miter them if you wish. Then connect this frame together with 'L' brackets/braces - kind of like the T bracket chas has in this post but 'L' shaped. Set the velvet trim on top of the screen - which you made a tad bit larger to accommodate this - and screw it together from behind. Use short enough screws so that they don't penetrate through. :T
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well I would have to use two pieces of luan for a 110" and I really did not want to have to do that.

So with the adhesive just spray it to the main outer frame and not the cross supports?
 

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well I would have to use two pieces of luan for a 110" and I really did not want to have to do that.

So with the adhesive just spray it to the main outer frame and not the cross supports?
That is correct. :yes:

Have you ever attached laminate before? If not, have something to keep the laminate and frame apart while you line it up. Dowels are the recommended item, I used several broomsticks. Once the two stick together, it would be a bear to get them apart.

You only adhere the outer edge as the inner part would create waves if there were any slop. I have a very slight amount of slop in mine and it's unnoticeable.

Keep asking and I'll keep trying to answer! ;) FG makes a very nice ambient light gray screen. :T
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No, first time using laminate. I'll use some broom sticks. Thanks again for all the help.

I forgot to tell you, this HT is in a basement with no windows and I have 4 2x2 foot flouresent lights in the drop ceiling that I have on a dimmer, and the rope light. That is all my light.

I am eventually going to replace the flourescents with recessed lights.

Thanks again. I will start the build in a few days.
 

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Speaking about using contact cement in general, I can't reiterate enough that once two contact-cement coated pieces make contact with each other, that's it - they are that way for life! If you want to see what I mean take two pieces of waste laminate (if you have any) and test cementing them and put them together a bit off-center and try to readjust them. You'll see what I mean. ;)

Also, contact cement works by CONTACT, as in pressing the two pieces together with some force. They sell "J rollers" that remind me of short rolling pins with vertical handles; these are used to force contact-cemented pieces together. I know this might sound odd since I just cautioned you about making sure your laminate was lined up perfectly with the frame before they come into contact, but the J-roller (or something like it) really should be used to maximize contact to get the best "hold" possible. The roller removes small air pockets that are between the two surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
so then what is the best way to remove the dowels/broomsticks with out getting them stuck? If I am spraying the laminate and the frame then it will tranfer onto the dowels right? how much time do you have to remove them?
 

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The glue will not stick to the dowels/broomsticks. The glue will only stick to itself and to whatever it was originally attached to. Someone here had waves, they attached to center supports, and they were able to pull the laminate from the frame. YMMV though...
 

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You wait for the glue to dry to the touch before you put the dowels in contact with it.

I should also mention that I have never used the particular glue Mech recommended so maybe it is a little more forgiving than the liquid contact cement you roll on. I'll get some next time I run into it.

I certainly don't want to scare anyone away from using contact cement, I just wanted to point out that it's not your typical "Elmer's white glue" that slips and slides and allows easy repositioning after pieces are joined together before it sets up. There is no "set up" time with contact cement. It works almost the opposite way compared to regular white or yellow carpenter glues. You apply the contact cement to BOTH pieces and allow it to dry to the touch (tacky) and THEN put the two pieces together.

Traditionally, you have your laminate sheet a bit larger than your frame/substrate to allow for any misalignment and then use a trim router to cut the edges flush to the frame/substrate after they are joined.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
thanks for the details Don.

Mech,
how much of the laminate should be adhered to the frame, I'm thinking a couple of inches on a 1x4 and then the left over 2 inches can be used to go under the velveted trim??
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Mech or anyone,

Off topic for a second, can you tell me the nuetrality numbers from the numbers on the top of the paint can? I just painted the walls and ceiling a dark grey and was just wondering about the paint being projected on? Thanks
 

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Mech or anyone,

Off topic for a second, can you tell me the nuetrality numbers from the numbers on the top of the paint can? I just painted the walls and ceiling a dark grey and was just wondering about the paint being projected on? Thanks
What paint are you referring to? Brand and color name?

The numbers on the can label would probably be a tint code. Most gray paints aren't neutral since most people don't like neutral grays, but prefer them slightly warm or cool. We want a true neutral gray for a screen since it will then reflect all colors of light equally.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
the label on the top reads:

Valspar Ultra Prem. Base 4
4007-2B Iron Frost Interior Flat
101-3Y16 103-16 113-6Y40 105-40
 
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