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Discussion Starter #41
Might as well keep my cross-posting alive:

Ok, so it's a given that my texture problems are the result of too much paint -- as indicated by the resulting texture, the excessive drying times of about an hour per coat, and possibly by the fact that I used 8+oz per coat -- a problem that can be alleviated by using a smaller needle. But since so many others have gotten great results with the stock needle, presumably we can pin my failing on something other than strictly the needle. What all are the factors that would cause too much paint to be laid down?

Moving too slowly. I don't think this was the case; if anything I feel like I moved too quickly across the screen.
Not enough water? This also doesn't seem to be the case if I'm understanding correctly; it poured easily through the nylon strainer and very quickly through the viscosity cup.
Too close to the screen? I don't think this was it either; if anything I feel like I may have been too far. The spray pattern was quite tall.

Which seems the most likely culprit? I think I still don't quite understand the effects of too much versus too little water in the mix. I think it's possible I used too much overlap as well.

Okay, first impressions of the screen: I don't consider the supposed hotspotting or limited viewing angle of the paint to be issues, at all. Neither are even vaguely noticeable during any actual viewing by me or anyone else who has seen the screen. When I (and probably others) hear "viewing angle" talk, I am imagining what I see when I look at an LCD off-angle, or a DLP rear-projection television. This is not even close to being in that ballpark. When I put up an image and walk to the side I simply don't notice any dropoff; that's about all there is to it. I have not yet taken off-axis photos; I don't doubt they will show that, objectively, there IS significant brightness dropoff, but it simply isn't an actual viewing concern in this case as far as I'm concerned.

Same goes for hotspotting. First of all, I guess I am not in much of a position to comment on it given my projector's obvious uniformity issues (making a "hotspot" apparent even on unpainted BOC). Secondly, again, I just don't see it in any actual video watching. Any given frame of a video is going to have so many textures, colors, light/dark values, that trying to tell that one area is unintentionally lighter than another is going to be exceedingly difficult even in a still frame. Given motion; changing lighting; constantly changing camera shots; and the fact that you will actually be paying attention to the action, characters, etc; and then given the fact that we are watching on screens large enough that we probably (in my case certainly) cannot take in the whole frame simultaneously -- noticing "hotspotting" that is anything short of the effect of a flashlight being shown on the screen is simply not going to happen IMO. So while the hotspotting of this mix could be quite noticeable in a flat, solid test pattern; or, with more effort, in a still frame of actual video content: I just don't see it affecting my viewing experience in the slightest.

Beyond that, my first impression is that it is brighter than my BOC, but with correspondingly lighter blacks. No earth-shaking revelation there I guess! From a quick comparison of the few test photos I've done of the RS-MM-LL with the UPW, it actually looks very similar in terms of whites and blacks. I will post the comparison pics in a couple days when I've had time to take more. I'm also going to pick up another yard or so of BOC to compare it directly rather than just through photos. I have a 2' x 3' panel that I'm going to paint Cream&Sugar Ultra as well; that should have been done already, but like an idiot, when I mixed and sprayed the paint for that, I had somehow gotten it into my head that the tubes of Liquitex were 8oz instead of 4oz, so there is half as much of the Silver as there should have been -- so it's not actually C&S.

Ambient performance: Unfortunately I didn't take ambient shots of the BOC and UPW to compare. Partly because it's not a concern for me but mostly because I just forgot. My impression is that it's not far off from the others; in other words, stuff like sports and talk shows and sitcoms are entirely watchable with a reading lamp on or the overhead light in the space adjoining this on, but I would never consider watching a movie or anything with lots of darks in it with lights on.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I'm going to practice my spraying more until I can get a good texture. Then I'll mix up a small batch of C&S with 4oz of the tinted Valspar and 4oz of Liquitex plus appropriate water and re-spray my 2' x 3' panel for comparisons.

Once/if I master spraying, I will re-spray my screen with C&S, most likely. Unless the RS-MM-LL shows a very noticeable advantage over the C&S, it is probably too expensive to re-do my whole screen again with that one. We'll see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Just to conclude this thread, here is the new thread I made comparing results: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-screens/63869-white-screen-boc-vs-rs-mm-ll-vs-c-s-ultra-vs-sherwin-williams.html

Plenty of people clearly get fantastic results with spraying, but personally I found it impossible to get a smooth surface that didn't exhibit noticeable graininess in a projected image; and the hassle of setup, protecting the rest of the area, and cleanup, mean I will look to roll in the future.
 

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Just to conclude this thread, here is the new thread I made comparing results: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-screens/63869-white-screen-boc-vs-rs-mm-ll-vs-c-s-ultra-vs-sherwin-williams.html

Plenty of people clearly get fantastic results with spraying, but personally I found it impossible to get a smooth surface that didn't exhibit noticeable graininess in a projected image; and the hassle of setup, protecting the rest of the area, and cleanup, mean I will look to roll in the future.
With our screen mixes and the OTS paint we recommend rolling shouldn't be a problem. ;)
 
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