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Just footnote here... I just found this thread. I had been looking for an N8 grey paint here in New Zealand. The best candidate I had located is Dulux "Ashville" RGB 200,199,199.

Don't know what the spectral response would be, but I liked that it had the slightest increase in Red over the others. I'm going to try some and see what the results are.
 

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Just footnote here... I just found this thread. I had been looking for an N8 grey paint here in New Zealand. The best candidate I had located is Dulux "Ashville" RGB 200,199,199.

Don't know what the spectral response would be, but I liked that it had the slightest increase in Red over the others. I'm going to try some and see what the results are.
Sounds good! Welcome to HTS! :T

If you need a quick spectral response, pm Smokey. He's there (in New Zealand) and would, more than likely, be happy to do it for you.
 

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OK, well I can see this is going to be fun. Bought some Ashville, and painted up a piece of card with 2 coats. Considering the RGB values 200,199,199 this is not a neutral grey, but one that tends a little to the beige. (not hard to notice) I even went back and checked the tint with the store, and it appears they got their settings right.

I will paint it up as an experiment at least, but I'm puzzled as to why what would have seemed to be such a neutral spec turned out this way.

I guess, based on what I've read elsewhere here that with a beige hint I could add some aluminium powder to it to push it in the right direction?

This will be a very imprecise experiment, I can tell :gulp:
 

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OK, well I can see this is going to be fun. Bought some Ashville, and painted up a piece of card with 2 coats. Considering the RGB values 200,199,199 this is not a neutral grey, but one that tends a little to the beige. (not hard to notice) I even went back and checked the tint with the store, and it appears they got their settings right.

I will paint it up as an experiment at least, but I'm puzzled as to why what would have seemed to be such a neutral spec turned out this way.
It is almost impossible to judge the color neutrality of a paint by eye, that is why we need colorimeters or spectrophotometers.

To even come close to judging a neutral color by eye you MUST have a sample of the neutral color to compare your paint sample to.

RGB 200, 199, 199 is a true neutral gray with a Munsell neutral gray value (what we just call an N value) of 8.0 (an N8 shade of gray). The L*a*b* values would be 80.32, 0.349, 0.113. I would say that if this paint is looking visibly beige to you that something is wrong somewhere.

I guess, based on what I've read elsewhere here that with a beige hint I could add some aluminium powder to it to push it in the right direction?
You could compensate for the beige color by adding some silver paint to the mix, but I would NOT add metallic aluminum powder, flakes or dust. Unless the metal have been specially chemically treated so it can be safely added to water-based compounds it could produce an exothermic reaction hot enough to start a fire! Also, most aluminum powers are not very reflective. If you want to experiment adding aluminum to paint I highly recommend finding a source of water-based aluminum paint and mixing that into your paint mix. We have found that Auto Air Aluminum-fine #4101 is available almost world-wide. It is an automotive paint, but many airbrush paint suppliers sell it as well.
 

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Visibly beige... well lets say a warm grey... I had the store check the formula, I was the last customer they had tinted for and the machine was still set... we checked against the computer formula, and all was correct. Put my painted sample against a colour card (its from an extended range, not the usual consumer range) and the tint matched the card. So the tint is OK.

I see in another thread mention of someone in Australia having used Ashville..

I've ordered some Liquitex Basics Silver... 2 x 4oz tubes... I can play with that as an additive I guess.

I should also put aside some sample cards and ask someone to run a spectrum.
 

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Also I noted that the tint components were Ochre, A Red, and Black. Into a Dulux Vivid White base... That combination sounds more warm than neutral to me...
 

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Also I noted that the tint components were Ochre, A Red, and Black. Into a Dulux Vivid White base... That combination sounds more warm than neutral to me...
Those tinting colors can make many hues, but when added in a certain ratio will make a neutral gray. Similar tinting colors here in the States are Yellow Oxide and Red Oxide and these tints are used to make neutral gray paints as well as the Bermuda Beige that is the base for Black Widow™, all that is different is the amount of each tint.

I've ordered some Liquitex Basics Silver... 2 x 4oz tubes... I can play with that as an additive I guess.
Just a heads-up on Liquitex BASICS Silver, this paint only contains mica as a reflective agent and will not darken a mix near as much as an aluminum paint would. It also won't affect mix color as much. In fact it is the reflective paint used in our Cream&Sugar™ Ultra mix where it consists of half of the mix, the other half being a white house paint with a very small amount of magenta tint added to make the mix color neutral.
 

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Thanks for this. Does the Liquitex Silver push the colour in any particular direction?

Just a heads-up on Liquitex BASICS Silver, this paint only contains mica as a reflective agent and will not darken a mix near as much as an aluminum paint would. It also won't affect mix color as much. In fact it is the reflective paint used in our Cream&Sugar™ Ultra mix where it consists of half of the mix, the other half being a white house paint with a very small amount of magenta tint added to make the mix color neutral.
 

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Thanks for this. Does the Liquitex Silver push the colour in any particular direction?
It pushes up both green and blue slightly; this is when it was mixed with a white paint that pushed up red and yellow. The mix was a 1:1 ratio or 50% of both paints.
 

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Something around 25X25mm. I usually say about the size of a quarter but I don't think you'd care for that. :eek: You can put it on an index card and make sure you wrap it in paper towels or some sort of tissue so that it survives the trip. I usually forget to tell people that.
 

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The paper towel should be WHITE on both sides. The reason to wrap the sample in the paper towel is primarily to prevent any "security printing" that might be on the inside of the envelope from contaminating the sample. It also provides a bit of extra protection during it's trip though the postal system.
 

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OK I have samples prepared and packaged, I will send off tomorrow. I have two, one is Ashville, the other on spec is 4:1 Ashville and Liquitex Basics Silver. I have the samples each in its own zip-lock bag, and they are taped to a piece of card. Be interesting to see what they turn out to be.
 
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