Yes, I added the two subs very shortly after I had the first two up and running. I irresponsibly found it in the budget to do so, but I couldn't hold out. The additional two improved response some, but the additional output gave me the requisite headroom for EQ, and that was probably the bigger gain.
It's now in set it and forget it status, in fact, recently the binding posts on one of my amplifiers (I have two EP1500s, 1 channel to 1 sub) had come lost and I one of the four weren't being powered. I didn't even realize it until I was in the storage area with music playing doing some household cleaning. Not to say the 4th sub doesn't make a difference, it does, but that the whole system is blended in now that I'm not actively focuses on just sub response.
Last time I did a sweep I was over 110db @5Hz reseasonably flat (until I house curved) from the front row of my theater.
i dont think @Scubasteve2365 has been around these parts for a while. but if anyone can chime in this would be helpful
looking at his placement of the sub compared to the front channel speaker. does having the sub output close to the front albiet on the side cause any cancellation?
i have a similar setup and am trying to decide if i need to move my sub a set of studs further away.
option 1. sub output closer to speaker output. fear is some sort of cancellation of frequencies.
option 2. sub output one set of studs further south of the fronts but that places the backside of the driver very close to the underside of my staircase.
Hi guys, I'm planning on building an IB. My movie room is 15.5W x 27L x 8H the garage (otherside of the IB) is 28W x 30L x 8H. My loose plan was to make a IB with 4 18's in the right corner where my svs PB ultras are located. I already have a ep2500 to power them. So my question is what drivers...
Hello, I am brand new to this and have been trying to learn about speaker building. This may seem like a dumb question, but the answer will help me understand more than I knew before :smile:
Would it be possible to not have an extra room, but just have a cylinder from each woofer go out through...
Drivers arrived today from Ficar! 4 big ole boxes. Everything seemed to be smartly packed and there was no damage even though one of the boxes had seen some abuse.
My wife is scared and she should be...:hsd:
Not sure If im modelling this correctly. This is telling me that I'd have to go up to 600W per speaker to hit Xmax. I've read in other places that 250-350w would be the most you'd want to go with dual opposed IB318 subs to prevent from bottoming out.
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/ib-infinite-baffle-subwoofer-build-projects/48481-dayton-ib385-8-15-sound-quality.html ....(this link will take you to my thread "Dayton IB385-8 sound quality?" which is a precursor to this IB Fi18 build, it explains how I derived at these drivers)...