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Discussion Starter #1
I am building this pair of sealed subs for a friend.

Sadly, it appears that the Dayton DVC385-88 has been discontinued.

I aimed for a usable internal volume of about 3 cubic feet.


I cut most of the parts and decided to glue two panels from scraps to use for the Inner Baffle layer.




Here are all the parts, including the internal braces, which are just Blanks at this point.




This is my high-tech method for determining the clearance I need for the internal braces.




Transferring the clearance lines to the braces.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
I was able to move pretty fast using the table saw. But, if you're not comfortable with this, use a jigsaw--it is safer.
I started with a slice. I placed a mark on the fence, so I'd know when to stop the cut. I flipped the board over and made a second slice.




Then I moved the fence and sliced again.




Followed by a sideways move to clean out the narrow strip in the middle.




I free-handed the angled cuts on the table saw. Again, if you're not comfortable with this, use a jigsaw.
Finally, I lowered the blade and set the fence, then raised the spinning blade into the work piece for the final cut.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
In a single step, I glued the internal brace pieces together and glued and clamped one cabinet.
Afterwards, I glued together the second internal brace pieces and called it quits for the day.

I used PL Premium in a makeshift grout bag (1 Quart ZipLock freezer bag, with a corner snipped off) to assemble the brace pieces and to install the bracing inside the cabinet.

I used TiteBond II for cabinet assembly and shot some finishing nails to maintain alignment while installing the clamps.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
I wanted to see if I could move faster on the second cabinet. I have used a foam roller to spread Titebond before, but today I wanted to see if I could apply PL Premium with a foam roller. The stuff is pretty thick, but that's okay. It went well.

I put some aluminum foil on some cardboard and used that to load a foam roller with PL Premium and it went so well, so fast, that I used it on all the rest of the cabinet assembly. It was much faster than the makeshift grout-bag method.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Looks really good. What do you plan do you to plan to regarding the enclosure finish?
Black paint on most of the cabinet, with accent panels and maybe a grill. I'm undecided on some of it at this point. I originally intended this to be just a plain, basic cabinet with emphasis on function, rather than beauty. But, I just can't help myself. I like beauty.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Plunge/Route/Plunge/Route until you cut all the way through.




I like to use a Spiral Up-Cut bit for this task, because it lifts much of the chips up and out of the channel as you cut.




Now that the through-hole has been cut through the first baffle layer, I'm gluing on the second layer.

 

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I've got a build thread in progress also. Your thread and many others have REALLY nice bracing structures. Mine is not nearly as artistic. Too bad the braces they aren't visible when the enclosures are finished:ponder:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sand the Feet.




Tint the Feet. Hurry-Up-And-Dry the Feet.




Quality Inspection.




One coat of Crystalac Black. I'll spray another, followed by 3 coats of clear.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
After the clear, do you move on to installing the connectors and drivers?
Not quite yet.

I will add some touches to the cabinet and I want to make a grill for it as well.

Once the cab is fully done, I will install the connector cup on the back and run the wires, using hot melt glue to secure the wires to prevent any rattling.

Then I will stuff the cab with polyfil and finally--install the driver.

That's the plan, anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I had a few decorative touches in mind, but the Coolness Factor just wasn't there. Moving on...

Ring grills.




Nearly done.







 

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Discussion Starter #20
I don't see any sockets installed in post #10; how are the grills held in place?
I used the Grill Guides I got from Parts Express. I didn't get a photo of that. Also, the fabric ring is held in place by screws driven at an angle. I should get a shot of that later. It might help some others to see how I did that.
 
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