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Most older homes were run with number 14 romex. When the electricians change the fuses to breakers they seem to have no problem swapping the 15 amp fuses for 20 amp breakers. Most outlets in your average home are only rated for 15 amps- because they cost 35 cents each. The outlet needs to be 20 amps also in order to eliminate weak links.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
probably safe to say they used 12 all around. How many amps is you conditioner good for?
My conditioner (monsterpower hts 5100) is good for 15 amps i believe. I use to have the avs 2000 but didn't see the need........probably the one i should have kept. But it kept making clicking noises every time it adjusted the voltage and it seemed like the voltage always stayed around 119-121 anyways without it. I figured i have been slacking on my picture taking so here is one of my breaker box. lol maybe it will answer more of your questions than i can
 

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you can see the lights for the living room kitchen and garage are on the one with the smoke detectors. but the good thing is the living room outlets are on a 20 amp breaker. But anything already plugged into that room is drawing power for its use before you even start to plug in your HT if it happens to be in that room
 

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I think that the first thing you should do is to get a nice circuit for that crown amp. It draws more voltage and amps than anything except your dryer and A/C. They are on their own circuit, so that would be the first thing to do. Next, I would try to get the HT equipment on its own 20 amp breaker if possible. But if that is not an option, the 220 circuit for the amp would probably solve any electrical problems. At that point you know that the amp will be able to work to the max that it can. The EQ problem, well that is another story.
 

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Brandon nice job answering all of the questions these past couple of days. I really thought it would be easier than this, I mean get solved quicker. You know when you find the issue (and I believe your close) we are all gonna say what took so long.

Anyway Robert, Sub-Crazy you guys are covering it all. Great job.

I was just thinking, don't get frustrated but..., you've got the sub plugged into the pre-low level sub-out right? So when you say you turn the volume up on the Sony receiver your actually going to the on screen menu and under sub your turning down the balance.

I just had to ask that

But I want to say this..., any time you have a signal under the control of 2 TWO analog volume control knobs you can run into exactly the type of issue you have and then I take it you are using an analog EQ with rheostat/potentiometers you are increasing that potential many fold.

I'm just going to assume each volume control is a variable resistor your stacking resistance in a circuit when ideally you should have very little added resistance in this circuit. Then there is the Question of a Zobel circuit. Anytime there is

People spend lots of money on "volume controls) a Burr Brown Rheostat can sell for $50 to $100 and some go up from there. Any way get a digital EQ if you have to that will end any resistance question. Bu the Zobel network or Hi Pass Filter.

Brandon you could have a hi pass filter in your sony or in the Crown but you need it in the box. The problem is active inductance caused by the driver/speaker movement..

Island, Robert sub-crazy is your hi-pass filter/crossover in the speaker box? Does it contain a Zobel network (probably).

Just some thoughts, don't quote me, I am not there I have no real idea what is there. is there a resister and a cap attached to the speaker in its network..., I have never seen an LMS Driver exceot at Parts express

Hey call Parts Express (especially if you bought there) if you have question about a zobel network for the speaker.....

But I think get the EQ out of the loop is a start.
 

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Brandon nice job answering all of the questions these past couple of days. I really thought it would be easier than this, I mean get solved quicker. You know when you find the issue (and I believe your close) we are all gonna say what took so long.

Anyway Robert, Sub-Crazy you guys are covering it all. Great job.

I was just thinking, don't get frustrated but..., you've got the sub plugged into the pre-low level sub-out right? So when you say you turn the volume up on the Sony receiver your actually going to the on screen menu and under sub your turning down the balance.

I just had to ask that

But I want to say this..., any time you have a signal under the control of 2 TWO analog volume control knobs you can run into exactly the type of issue you have and then I take it you are using an analog EQ with rheostat/potentiometers you are increasing that potential many fold.

I'm just going to assume each volume control is a variable resistor your stacking resistance in a circuit when ideally you should have very little added resistance in this circuit. Then there is the Question of a Zobel circuit. Anytime there is

People spend lots of money on "volume controls) a Burr Brown Rheostat can sell for $50 to $100 and some go up from there. Any way get a digital EQ if you have to that will end any resistance question. Bu the Zobel network or Hi Pass Filter.

Brandon you could have a hi pass filter in your sony or in the Crown but you need it in the box. The problem is active inductance caused by the driver/speaker movement..

Island, Robert sub-crazy is your hi-pass filter/crossover in the speaker box? Does it contain a Zobel network (probably).

Just some thoughts, don't quote me, I am not there I have no real idea what is there. is there a resister and a cap attached to the speaker in its network..., I have never seen an LMS Driver exceot at Parts express

Hey call Parts Express (especially if you bought there) if you have question about a zobel network for the speaker.....

But I think get the EQ out of the loop is a start.
My high pass filter is set at 14 hz and it is accomplished through a MIC2200.
 

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I am trying to figure out why a high pass filter on a sealed LMS.
He doesn't need a HPF is he is not boosting the low end. If I remember correctly the Anti-mode has a lift 25hz mode which boosts the low end but also adds a 10hz hpf which I think is appropriate when using a single sealed LMS. If using multiples then no HPF is needed but I have seen the carnage of a single LMS Ultra sealed with a lot of power and no HPF, not pretty.
 

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I am just wondering because I have seen an LMS running full steam in a sealed box and It did not bottom or make any crazy noises. That thing was really cooking and doing way more movement than mine have ever done. The surround was actually wrinkling when the cone was at full excursion. I can't believe he could bottom that woofer in a sealed box with the amp running on a shared 20 amp circuit. I think the noise was the result of a clipped signal and not bottoming in any way.
 

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Island, don't wanna miss a chance to comment..., your hitting all the bases too. I gotta say when things go bad at HTS people jump in with both feet alot of good ideas get looked at.
 
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