HAHAHA, that's awesome. My wife says that the subwoofer gives her a head ache and she cant really tell much of a difference on the surround sound other than there are occasional noises in the background. WOMEN!!!!!!! Me and her do not share the love of high end audio.
Did you do a thread when you built the latest LMS box? If so can you add the link. If I redo the box I will start a new thread and do it in overly done detail like I did this one.
It may be a bit if I attempt to rebuild it. The box is good, but just thinking I might want to try a new design for fun.
I just finished the designs and cut sheet for the Box going in my truck. Took a lot of measuring and re-measuring to get the angles for the box to fit under the back seat of my F-150, then a ton of searching to find the right sub for the space. was going to post the build on this site, but noticed there was no forums for Car audio.
Glad to see your still on here, send me the link or add them here. I want to read through your build
Wow, to post a build . . . . I dunno . . . . I'm moved into another computer and an additional 2 terabyte external hardrive. I don't recall if I sent that build with pictures to drive E or what. I'll take a look. That's 4 years ago at least. That build was for the 2 21s and not the 5400. I was really proud to be able to stuff 2 21s into a 9 cu ft box made from one sheet of 4x8 plywood. Nobody at the time seemed very interested so I never posted it.
That'd be like opening up an old war wound. I'm still pickin glue outta my hair and off my fingers from that one.
We shall see.
http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...-18sw115-history-lets-see-what-21-can-do.html
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I added some pictures and details about the Dual RCF 21s on the above thread.
I hadn't looked at that stuff for over three years.
The pictures make it look so simple. It wasn't.
I think the neatest part of that project is that I used only 1 piece of 4x8 Birch Plywood . . . plus 20 feet of bracing.
My box was designed to enable me to build and complete an enclosure as quickly as possible. (1 weekend)
The box size was calculated using WinISD for optimum bass extension and best distortion profile.
I wasn't concerned with the ultimate in strength or finish.
The box DID have to be (air tight) and substantial enough to easily hold the 85 pound driver.
I used 3/4 inch MDF single sheet on every panel and face.
Box reinforcement was done with 1x2 inch furring battens at every intersection of every panel.
Additional 1x2 reinforcement was placed at mid-panel of all panels to push nodal vibrations/resonances above 200Hz.
I enlarged bolt holes on driver rim to accept larger 1/4 inch bolts.
I used glue/screw/clamps/clamping straps to assemble box and 1x2 reinforcement battens.
I bought the 4x8 MDF from Home Depot and had them make the original panel cuts.
I did additional edge refinement using a Freud thin kerf ultimate fine tooth blade on a 71/2 Milwaukee circular saw.
I did all panel work on the floor using 2x4s placed under the panels for saw blade and router clearance.
I cut the driver and speaker wire binding post holes with a Freud router using a Jasper Circle Guide.
I used 1 3/4" wood screws and Elmers carpenters glue and clamps during glue dry/cure 24 hrs.
All Seams were carefully sealed from the inside with silicone caulking gun. The box IS tight.
Speaker caulk was used to seal driver to front panel rather than the included driver gasket. (gasket was oversized and didn't fit well under the compression of the mounting bolts).
I placed 2 inch thick sound absorbent polyester on all inside panels to reduce internal reflections.
I used #14 speaker wire to hook both voice coils in series and to hook speaker to binding posts.
Box and driver together weigh 120lbs.
1-28-2017,
Driver and box have performed excellently over time.
I have used this system at several GTGs. Always impresses.
On my thick pile carpet, the box never moves. I use a dolly to move it.
When energized with a couple thousand watts of power, the panels can be felt moving slightly at certain frequencies.
At normal listening levels there is no discernable panel movement, vibration, or audible discoloration.
I have two amps for the sub, Crown Xti 4000 and a Peavey IPR 3000/Behringer Ultra Curve Pro DEQ2496.
I prefer the Crown which allows hookup and analysis through a laptop computer for unlimited frequency curve adjustments
I cross the sub over @ 80Hz for normal listening with my home designed mains. I use no subsonic filter.
The sub reaches 10Hz and at that Fq will vibrate walls, doors, windows, and concrete floor when driven hard.
I have never bottomed the driver cone but have put the Crown amp into protection. The Peavey amp just goes into distortion.
The energy transfer from the titanium cone and huge magnet motor is astonishing. A visiting grand
kid accidentally put his small chair up against the cone surround and sat in the chair while a movie was playing.
When the sound track hit an explosion, the cone hit the chair and knocked the kid on the floor. It's possible he jumped from fright.
*
A room curve is really a necessity to get the best from this sub system. I have used this as a single sub without correction and the room modes are really bothersome.
With a good room curve reducing the response irregularities, the excellent low levels of distortion properties of this LMS driver become VERY obvious.
Music is astonishingly realistic, video games and movies become a life threatening reality.
The Crown amp DEQ provides ample room curve adjustments and can boost response to 10Hz.
The Peavey amp has no DEQ. You need the additional Peavey ultra curve unit to provide Fq adjustments. The Peavey amp and Ultra curve provide equal quality room correction.
For a choice of the most recent amps I would consider:
Behringer iNUKE NU12000DSP
Peavey IPR2 7500 DSP
Crown XTi 6002
Crown Itech 12000HD
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