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You found the sensitivity switch. That took care of your volume differential between the mains and the sub.
YES! BE CAREFUL applying full power from the CE 4000 to the LMS Ultra in free air! At least until the driver has been broken in.
Did you feel heat at the voice coil or where? If there's heat anywhere else be careful during the breakin. If the voice coil is rubbing anywhere that may produce some unusual heat into the aluminum cone.
Proceed with caution when playing with the almost $1000.00 driver best in the world!
 

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Discussion Starter #62
You found the sensitivity switch. That took care of your volume differential between the mains and the sub.
YES! BE CAREFUL applying full power from the CE 4000 to the LMS Ultra in free air! At least until the driver has been broken in.
Did you feel heat at the voice coil or where? If there's heat anywhere else be careful during the breakin. If the voice coil is rubbing anywhere that may produce some unusual heat into the aluminum cone.
Proceed with caution when playing with the almost $1000.00 driver best in the world!
I was next to it looking at the guts of it when i noticed some heat. so i shut it off and touched the cone. it was pretty warm but not hot, it didn't run for very long at all, so hopefully i didn't screw it up
 

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Discussion Starter #63
after it cooled off completely, i lightly pushed the cone in and out too see if i could feel friction or hear any odd noises. Nothing. So turned it back on but a low volume and ran it for a minute. Not even warm. Looks fine to me. But no more playing until its in the box!!! Had it burned up, that would have put a slight damper on this project
 

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Coolio! I didn't know the CE4000 had a sensitivity switch, nice!

Phil's right, be careful running the LMS free air.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Nice find on the sensitivity switch. I was going to suggest that as I was reading along since I have the same amp. The box is looking really good too! Keep it up!
Thanks man! If yours is for a subwoofer also, Could you tell me what you have your other settings on?

Coolio! I didn't know the CE4000 had a sensitivity switch, nice!

Phil's right, be careful running the LMS free air.
Trust me, i am done with the free air, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Besides trying to make sure my amp and sub worked, i aligned my sub in the baffle and pre drilled my holes with a 3/32 bit. I also went to Lowe's and got some more wood screws and some PL premium. I decided to go with the pl premium for adding the birch because after i sand that one side down i doubt it will be flush and this is suppose to be better for filling gaps if i remember correctly. I plan on painting this a glossy black. If anyone knows a good thread or site for how to paint, please let me know.
 

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Trust me, i am done with the free air, lol.
`
Actually breaking in the Ultra in free-air is an excellent way to do it. However, it has to be done with a certain amount of engineering skill and technique. NO limiting out the X-MECH, vary the frequency from lowest to highest that it'll see during normal use, make sure the driver is operating in a safe environment away from curious children or other jealous DIYers. Put it on a stable platform the floor is good. Try not to annoy your significant other by playing warble tones of 20-40HZ at night while they're trynna sleep!
How long should breakin take??? I've seen some suggest a week of continuous 24-7, light, low Hz, tones. Others suggest a couple minutes only enough to make sure all the moving parts operate as intended. My own experience is kinda in the middle, a couple hours of varied test tones at partial volume checking frequently to see that the driver is performing as designed. I haven't experienced a point where a driver (all of a sudden) reaches some magical point of "freedom of movement", although I have measured changes over time of the T/S parameters. My experience now includes 2 21" RCF drivers. LOL from 1/2 inch tweeters to 21" subwoofers.
The LMS Ultra is a heavy piece of audio machinery, with moving parts and wiring a 100 times as robust as the lightest tweeters. Care for it like you would the engine of the Titanic don't play it like a . . . . . flute and blow the hell out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
It will probably take some time to break in. I don't listen to music much. I am hoping this will out perform my paradigm seismic 12.

I get off early today and then am off the next 3 days. I hope to have it painted
 

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I am hoping this will out perform my paradigm seismic 12.
`
LOL I'm sure it will. You've done a great job building the sealed enclosure, you've purchased a well known SUB woofer amplifier with enough power to energize a 16X 25 room to the point of distressing doors, walls, light fixtures, windows, patio doors, etc. and you've got the best 18" driver in the LMS ULTRA.
You are soon to appreciate what many DIYers have experienced in the ultimate subwoofer box/driver combo.
If it doesn't, I'll buy all of it from you.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
`
LOL I'm sure it will. You've done a great job building the sealed enclosure, you've purchased a well known SUB woofer amplifier with enough power to energize a 16X 25 room to the point of distressing doors, walls, light fixtures, windows, patio doors, etc. and you've got the best 18" driver in the LMS ULTRA.
You are soon to appreciate what many DIYers have experienced in the ultimate subwoofer box/driver combo.
If it doesn't, I'll buy all of it from you.
I like your confidence!
 

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Discussion Starter #72 (Edited)
Here is what i was able to do tonight when i got home.

I was playing with an idea in my head the past few days and decided to give it a try. I didn't want to just glue the baffle flat on to the 3/4 mdf. So i decided to put a lip on the inside of the baffle to give it more surface area for glue and at another angle. You will have to see the pics to get what i'm talking about.

I started out with some scrap pieces that were about 3/4 to 1 inch strips. I put alligned them one at a time along the inside of the box top and marked them to be cut. Each side was cut at 45 degrees. I also notched the tip of the cut a second time to go over the caulking.

Each piece was glued on the 45 degree cut only then clamped to the inside of the box and butted together.

After about 30-45 minutes of drying i cut 4 triangle shaped pieces out of more scrap. added glue to two sides and clamped those in the corners for added support. Allowed to dry

I grabbed some more scrap blocks of wood and wedged them to where it would keep this frame that was just made at the top of the box but without clamps holding it.

I then took the baffle and alligned it exactly how i wanted it. then with a pencil reached through the speaker hole and traced the frame. If anyone is going to try this, make sure to make markings so you know exactly how everything lines back up when you flip it over. For example. write "top" on the top of the box and then "top" on the baffle where it lines up. Then make markes underneith on the frame as well.

now i flipped the baffle over and flipped the fram over onto it. Aligned it with the marks. glued it and screwed it. Also went ahead and put calking on interior parts because i know this would be a pain if i tried to after it was on.

As you can see from the picture, it fits quite well. So now i glued the snozolla out of it with PL premium and clamped it down really tight and wiped off excess glue.
Took a picture from the inside of the box to show that the glue seemed to have pretty good coverage overall. i am going to silicone along that edge also when it dries just to be safe. probably overkill but owell. Do yall think i should screw it in also? or is that much glue good to go?

Also did some sanding to try and get the side just a hair thinner.
 

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Woof! That's a lot of MDF all glued and battened and triangled. Triple front baffle too! My guess is your close to 90 pounds with that box. Add the driver 80 pounds and you get one immoveable object.
Excellent pictures including that one from INSIDE the box. Very creative. Your next career could be in the artsy fartsy fantasy group.
Is there a wiring terminal in the box somewhere?
 

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`
Actually breaking in the Ultra in free-air is an excellent way to do it. However, it has to be done with a certain amount of engineering skill and technique. NO limiting out the X-MECH, vary the frequency from lowest to highest that it'll see during normal use, make sure the driver is operating in a safe environment away from curious children or other jealous DIYers. Put it on a stable platform the floor is good. Try not to annoy your significant other by playing warble tones of 20-40HZ at night while they're trynna sleep!
How long should breakin take??? I've seen some suggest a week of continuous 24-7, light, low Hz, tones. Others suggest a couple minutes only enough to make sure all the moving parts operate as intended. My own experience is kinda in the middle, a couple hours of varied test tones at partial volume checking frequently to see that the driver is performing as designed. I haven't experienced a point where a driver (all of a sudden) reaches some magical point of "freedom of movement", although I have measured changes over time of the T/S parameters. My experience now includes 2 21" RCF drivers. LOL from 1/2 inch tweeters to 21" subwoofers.
The LMS Ultra is a heavy piece of audio machinery, with moving parts and wiring a 100 times as robust as the lightest tweeters. Care for it like you would the engine of the Titanic don't play it like a . . . . . flute and blow the hell out of it.
Ummmmm, and when are you planning on sharing the info on your dual 21's, I don't want to have to warn you a third time:paddle: This is what I had to do to the last guy that teased me with sub-woofer info but didn't deliver:boxer: And these are the people who told me about there sub build:party:

Choose wisely friendo:foottap:
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Woof! That's a lot of MDF all glued and battened and triangled. Triple front baffle too! My guess is your close to 90 pounds with that box. Add the driver 80 pounds and you get one immoveable object.
Excellent pictures including that one from INSIDE the box. Very creative. Your next career could be in the artsy fartsy fantasy group.
Is there a wiring terminal in the box somewhere?
Its definateyl becomming a heavy chunk. Its going to get just a wee bit heavier with the birch.

I laughed out loud to the "artsy fartsy groups" thats just not happening lol

Glad you mentioned the Terminals. Its proabable going to be one of the last things i do. I got the wires soldered onto the connections. Kinda stinks to build a tank of a box and then cut a 2 inch hole with a thin piece of plastic. i may have an idea around that though

Ummmmm, and when are you planning on sharing the info on your dual 21's, I don't want to have to warn you a third time:paddle: This is what I had to do to the last guy that teased me with sub-woofer info but didn't deliver:boxer: And these are the people who told me about there sub build:party:

Choose wisely friendo:foottap:
I'd like to see this to
 

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Discussion Starter #80
and for the dampening material. I'm thinking of filing those side chambers with insulation and too keep it from getting around the cone, to take some of that thin window screen and stapling it tight to the bracing
 
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