Yeah, just a little too late, lol. I sanded down both oposing sides pretty heavily, then took a square to it to make sure i didn't make big dips in it. After that i glued the birch to the sides with Titebond III, clamped it down, and used finishing nail gun from the inside of box to make sure it didnt' slide around while it was dryingBrandon,
I have been reading your thread this last week and I am impressed how much you have got done. Using a skill saw is very time consuming and nerve racking. The box looks great.
I have not seen a post lately..., I hope you have not tried to sand the full side to compensate for the short edge cut. I believe it will show worse than the fill in piece you would use to complete the side. You cannot sand it flat using conventional tool. Unless you don't know you can't and spend a month sanding to come up with something reasonable but leaves you wishing you had just filled in the missing piece with a strip of wood wnd filled irreg with joint compound and sanded ready for paint. In any case "DO NOT USE GLOSS PAINT" semi or flat will hide many defects up to 1/16th"
I like your idea of veneering the box but still you will need a smooth flat surface to veneer. But in this case fill imperfections with bondo or other polyester or epoxy fill of some type.
What I really want to write to you about is a table saw. I have owned a 10" Delta Contractor's saw with 30" Unifence for 20++ years and used these saw' even longer. I love this saw but the saw I use the most is a saw I bought used for $65. It is a direct drive and the motor mounting is so loose to the motor it takes getting used to before doing any finish work LOL. In any case I can rip to the center of a piece of plywood and so I can create any dimension up to 47+"..., right? I bought the saw because it was cheap but most of all it will accept a "Dado" saw blade stack. Using a dado takes a little more planning but the end result is "rock solid" and no caulking required just a little glue.
I want to buy a better portable Table saw. I like the more expensive Dewalt again because it accepts a "DADO" blade. I like RIGID alot because; lifetime warranty and quality and accepts a Full dado blade stack. On any homemade stand or factory made stand it is an easy saw to own and keep out of the way. My Delta is in its own dedicated spot..., it is a shop saw even though it is on wheels.
I hope you get this before its too late. Do not attempt to sand the whole side.
Thanks!WOW the finished box looks great!!!!
Yeah, its pretty frustrating. I know it works because i tested it the other day. the only thing i have changed was the rca adapter. the original broke pretty easily. But this one is rca-1/4 inch just like the otherI've been quietly following your build, and must say it looks great. I like the semi-gloss finish you ended up with. I also understand your frustration. In something like this, building the box seems like the tough part. After that it's just a matter of hook ups and earthshaking enjoyment. However, sometimes the simple things are the most confounding. I hope you find the problem easily, and soon.
After doing all of this, except ohm meter, i call the individual up whome i got it from and he was able to figure out my problem. After going over everything he figured it must be my adapter. Told me to cut up and extra rca cable to test the theory. so i conected it to the regular screw in wire connectors to make the signal. and it worked. We now have bass. Noticed my screws were not tight enough and was letting air out. so i screwed those in a little better. was afraid of spitting wood so i did this a little at a time until leak stoppedCheck the Reciever, EQ, amp on another working speaker (doesn't have to be a sub woofer) to make sure that part of the system is hooked up correctly. Also check to see if the Ultra's wiring (dual voice coils) is correct with an ohm meter. Also try the Ultra on another system even a small tv or radio.
I DON'T think you have a big problem, just a "DUH oh THERE's the problem" type of problem. You had the system running with the Ultra in free air already, something changed since then. But I could be wrong.
I don't have a very good receiver, so i think this may be restricting it a little. so i am going to look for one of these.I didn't realize you were using a crown amp. I've read(I don't have personal experience in this) that sometimes they require a signal boost from the AVR to the amp. Not sure if that's your case, but something to consider maybe
Thats how the manual showed to do it. Use the channel two positive for the negative and use the channel one positive for the positive.Brandon I understand your having trouble with sound/power. I thought when bridging by using speaker terminals it is the plus/pos + from one side and minus/neg - from the other. Every amp goes about it diff though and depends on internal wiring. But usually printed on the amp terminals indicating which to use for bridged mono.
Something does not look right here.