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Discussion Starter #122
got everything hooked up and can barely feel a vibration in the sub and don't even see a signal. checked everything on receiver,amp, very frustrated to say the least. my next step i guess is to take the sub completely out and make sure its still wired. don't know why it wouldn't be.
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Using an RCA to 1/4 adapter.. It's wired for bridged mode. Also the switch is turned to bridge, all others are on flat. Tried them in other positions and nothing.

Tried with and without eq. Put eq in it's automode which sends test sounds to sub. The sounds are playing, but barely audible
 

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Brandon,

I have been reading your thread this last week and I am impressed how much you have got done. Using a skill saw is very time consuming and nerve racking. The box looks great.

I have not seen a post lately..., I hope you have not tried to sand the full side to compensate for the short edge cut. I believe it will show worse than the fill in piece you would use to complete the side. You cannot sand it flat using conventional tool. Unless you don't know you can't and spend a month sanding to come up with something reasonable but leaves you wishing you had just filled in the missing piece with a strip of wood wnd filled irreg with joint compound and sanded ready for paint. In any case "DO NOT USE GLOSS PAINT" semi or flat will hide many defects up to 1/16th"

I like your idea of veneering the box but still you will need a smooth flat surface to veneer. But in this case fill imperfections with bondo or other polyester or epoxy fill of some type.

What I really want to write to you about is a table saw. I have owned a 10" Delta Contractor's saw with 30" Unifence for 20++ years and used these saw' even longer. I love this saw but the saw I use the most is a saw I bought used for $65. It is a direct drive and the motor mounting is so loose to the motor it takes getting used to before doing any finish work LOL. In any case I can rip to the center of a piece of plywood and so I can create any dimension up to 47+"..., right? I bought the saw because it was cheap but most of all it will accept a "Dado" saw blade stack. Using a dado takes a little more planning but the end result is "rock solid" and no caulking required just a little glue.

I want to buy a better portable Table saw. I like the more expensive Dewalt again because it accepts a "DADO" blade. I like RIGID alot because; lifetime warranty and quality and accepts a Full dado blade stack. On any homemade stand or factory made stand it is an easy saw to own and keep out of the way. My Delta is in its own dedicated spot..., it is a shop saw even though it is on wheels.

I hope you get this before its too late. Do not attempt to sand the whole side.
 

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I've been quietly following your build, and must say it looks great. I like the semi-gloss finish you ended up with. I also understand your frustration. In something like this, building the box seems like the tough part. After that it's just a matter of hook ups and earthshaking enjoyment. However, sometimes the simple things are the most confounding. I hope you find the problem easily, and soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Brandon,

I have been reading your thread this last week and I am impressed how much you have got done. Using a skill saw is very time consuming and nerve racking. The box looks great.

I have not seen a post lately..., I hope you have not tried to sand the full side to compensate for the short edge cut. I believe it will show worse than the fill in piece you would use to complete the side. You cannot sand it flat using conventional tool. Unless you don't know you can't and spend a month sanding to come up with something reasonable but leaves you wishing you had just filled in the missing piece with a strip of wood wnd filled irreg with joint compound and sanded ready for paint. In any case "DO NOT USE GLOSS PAINT" semi or flat will hide many defects up to 1/16th"

I like your idea of veneering the box but still you will need a smooth flat surface to veneer. But in this case fill imperfections with bondo or other polyester or epoxy fill of some type.

What I really want to write to you about is a table saw. I have owned a 10" Delta Contractor's saw with 30" Unifence for 20++ years and used these saw' even longer. I love this saw but the saw I use the most is a saw I bought used for $65. It is a direct drive and the motor mounting is so loose to the motor it takes getting used to before doing any finish work LOL. In any case I can rip to the center of a piece of plywood and so I can create any dimension up to 47+"..., right? I bought the saw because it was cheap but most of all it will accept a "Dado" saw blade stack. Using a dado takes a little more planning but the end result is "rock solid" and no caulking required just a little glue.

I want to buy a better portable Table saw. I like the more expensive Dewalt again because it accepts a "DADO" blade. I like RIGID alot because; lifetime warranty and quality and accepts a Full dado blade stack. On any homemade stand or factory made stand it is an easy saw to own and keep out of the way. My Delta is in its own dedicated spot..., it is a shop saw even though it is on wheels.

I hope you get this before its too late. Do not attempt to sand the whole side.
Yeah, just a little too late, lol. I sanded down both oposing sides pretty heavily, then took a square to it to make sure i didn't make big dips in it. After that i glued the birch to the sides with Titebond III, clamped it down, and used finishing nail gun from the inside of box to make sure it didnt' slide around while it was drying

I definatley believe a table saw would have made this project faster and a little easier, but i am glad i didn't buy one. That $20 dollar straight edge did the trick, and i can easily store it on a shelf. If i do alot of wood working, i would prefer a tablesaw. My next project is shelves to hold my electronics on.
WOW the finished box looks great!!!!
Thanks!

I've been quietly following your build, and must say it looks great. I like the semi-gloss finish you ended up with. I also understand your frustration. In something like this, building the box seems like the tough part. After that it's just a matter of hook ups and earthshaking enjoyment. However, sometimes the simple things are the most confounding. I hope you find the problem easily, and soon.
Yeah, its pretty frustrating. I know it works because i tested it the other day. the only thing i have changed was the rca adapter. the original broke pretty easily. But this one is rca-1/4 inch just like the other
 

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Check the Reciever, EQ, amp on another working speaker (doesn't have to be a sub woofer) to make sure that part of the system is hooked up correctly. Also check to see if the Ultra's wiring (dual voice coils) is correct with an ohm meter. Also try the Ultra on another system even a small tv or radio.
I DON'T think you have a big problem, just a "DUH oh THERE's the problem" type of problem. You had the system running with the Ultra in free air already, something changed since then. But I could be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
Check the Reciever, EQ, amp on another working speaker (doesn't have to be a sub woofer) to make sure that part of the system is hooked up correctly. Also check to see if the Ultra's wiring (dual voice coils) is correct with an ohm meter. Also try the Ultra on another system even a small tv or radio.
I DON'T think you have a big problem, just a "DUH oh THERE's the problem" type of problem. You had the system running with the Ultra in free air already, something changed since then. But I could be wrong.
After doing all of this, except ohm meter, i call the individual up whome i got it from and he was able to figure out my problem. After going over everything he figured it must be my adapter. Told me to cut up and extra rca cable to test the theory. so i conected it to the regular screw in wire connectors to make the signal. and it worked. We now have bass. Noticed my screws were not tight enough and was letting air out. so i screwed those in a little better. was afraid of spitting wood so i did this a little at a time until leak stopped

I didn't realize you were using a crown amp. I've read(I don't have personal experience in this) that sometimes they require a signal boost from the AVR to the amp. Not sure if that's your case, but something to consider maybe
I don't have a very good receiver, so i think this may be restricting it a little. so i am going to look for one of these.

I cranked the volume up pretty loud and the Crown amp started flashing red lights and caused my power conditioner to shut off. oops. Reset it and now back on track. I am going to go to Radio Shack and see if they have a rca cable that is already split up between a hot, neg, and ground. after i get that all squared away, going to EQ it and take some pics
 

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Brandon I understand your having trouble with sound/power. I thought when bridging by using speaker terminals it is the plus/pos + from one side and minus/neg - from the other. Every amp goes about it diff though and depends on internal wiring. But usually printed on the amp terminals indicating which to use for bridged mono.

Something does not look right here.
 

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Discussion Starter #137
Ok, i decided against the Bass booster. It sounds fine. I had the gain up 3/4 on the amp and plaid a scene from TRON LEGACY, Its when the Guy gets zapped into the other dimension. Heard a loud pop. Get next to the sub and did it again. POP. So sounds like the sub bottomed out. I thought this thing could handle the juice?? So turned it down Half way. Played it again. No pop. Makes a funny noise playing that scene, but cant feel any air comming out from around the speaker?? But then again maybe i can't tell because of all the air pulsing from it?? I tightened them down as far as i believe they will safely go without stripping. any suggestions welcome.

Other than this bottoming out and the strange whoosh noise on the low note, its sounds great. It definately has more Umph than my paradigm which brand new (got used) would have cost the same as this set up. however the paradigm plays that scene with better sound. i added a pic of them side by side.

Other than that, i went and bought a different adapter at the local music shop. (phone RCA (female) to XLR (male) I thought the cutting of the rca and the bare wires just looked cheezy and could possibly cause a problem if my daughter ever got ahold of them. This adapter worked out great and looks much more solid.

The anti-mode was extremely easy to use. Basically just plug it in, hold down two buttons for 3 seconds, let go, and it plays several different tones and it saves the info when its done.

Can i use the microphone i got with this to do that REW program?
 

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Discussion Starter #138
Brandon I understand your having trouble with sound/power. I thought when bridging by using speaker terminals it is the plus/pos + from one side and minus/neg - from the other. Every amp goes about it diff though and depends on internal wiring. But usually printed on the amp terminals indicating which to use for bridged mono.

Something does not look right here.
Thats how the manual showed to do it. Use the channel two positive for the negative and use the channel one positive for the positive.

http://www.crownaudio.com/pdf/legacy/127393.pdf

Page 9 of the manual
 

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Discussion Starter #139 (Edited)
So now that i've been able to play several different song types and movie clips through this sub, i gotta say, i am amazed at how well it sounds with my other speakers. The Anti-mode was definately worth getting. It went from sounding kinda rough to very ....smooth, for lack of better word. I have played country, classical, rap, bass nectar, disney music, all sounded great. The sub blended well with all the music, alot better than my paradigm, and i thought that thing was pretty good.

Now as far as movies goes, it sounds great there too, my only let down was the Tron scene so far. I am wondering if there has to be an air leak that may have caused it to bottom out or cause the wooshing noise (or both). IF that seems to be majority vote than i will carefully remove and install a much better seal around the sub, even if i have to silicone it it (in an artsy fartsy kind of way ;) )

But overall i am glad i spent the time and effort into this sub and its not even broke in. Besides, If i ever get tired of the sub, it will make an excellent end table


Also, Thanks to everyone who helped me to figure this project out.( Ecspecially Island1000 and Sub_crazy) Without yall and this wonderfull Site of knowledge, this project would have been alot harder, not to mention probably way more expensive from trial and error
 

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Brandon,
Thanks for the link.

I see you have channel #2 volume turned all the way down; input is connected to chanel #2 on the back panel; and speaker channel #1 and #2 positive terminals are used for bridged mono.

So now is your cable interconnect a digital or analog cable? Is it a 75 ohm cable or no?

The pop noise doesn't sound like too much power to the speaker and the amp is clipping with square waves. Clipping is a real noisy happening. a square wave is not music it is raw dc power burst. You are not clipping you have a bad signal somehow.

If you are using a digital interconnect I believe this connect is still analog. Let me look..., be right back
 
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