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Discussion Starter #161
A high pass filter would be a good thing when your using a single LMS Ultra with a big amp and adding boost down low that sealed enclosures need.

Radio Shack used to carry a SPL meter for around $35 but you would have to check and see if it's still available. Most receiver calibrations don't do a great job on the sub channel so that is why it's good to have a SPL meter to double check.
This amp has a high pass filter. it goes...Flat..30hz...40hz..50hz. i have it on flat.

I will check on the spl meter
 

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"Actually the woofer moved quite a bit. most i have seen it. ....ummmm....i...ummm. yes i am plugging it all onto one circut and into the conditioner. Not sure if i mentioned this, but i cranked up the volume and it set off my conditioner and shut all my equipment down."
`
I think you've identified SOME of the problems.
IE: The power conditioner was maxed out by the CE 4000 drawing too much juice on sagging voltage trying to satisfy the demand put on it by the Ultra which in turn was trying to satisfy the boosted infrasonics being maginified through the Mini DSP. You unintentionally CAUSED the perfect electronic storm resulting in the Subwoofer burping on some clipped signal from the CE 4000.
Crown data sheet shows that the amp CAN be used bridged on 4ohm and 8ohm loads. Their data sheet also shows that output capability drops as voltage drops. Crown's output specification in watts ratings are @1000Hz. I'm guessing the amp produces LESS power at 20Hz and below just like any other amp.
Crown data sheet shows it to be capable of running on 240 volts. If the output of the amp and the Ultra doesn't satisfy your need for infrasonics running on 120 volts, consider running the amp on 240 volts.
The Ultra voice coils are 2 ohms each. If they are wired in (series) the voice coil resistance RE is 4 ohms the minimum suggested by Crown running the CE 4000 bridged. If the Ultra happens to be wired in (parallel), the resistance RE will be LESS than 2 ohms! The CE 4000 would NOT be able to deliver full rated power to that kind of load without clipping.
Plug the CE 4000 into it's own electrical circuit and breaker, NOT just another outlet which still may be on the same circuit breaker with the power conditioner.
Make sure the Ultra has the voice coils wired in SERIES and NOT parallel.
Try running the Ultra and the amp without the Mini DSP and see how the combination handles the same passage of TRON where the noise occurred.
Consider running the CE 4000 on 240 volts.
Then report back here.
 

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Discussion Starter #163 (Edited)
"Actually the woofer moved quite a bit. most i have seen it. ....ummmm....i...ummm. yes i am plugging it all onto one circut and into the conditioner. Not sure if i mentioned this, but i cranked up the volume and it set off my conditioner and shut all my equipment down."
`
I think you've identified SOME of the problems.
IE: The power conditioner was maxed out by the CE 4000 drawing too much juice on sagging voltage trying to satisfy the demand put on it by the Ultra which in turn was trying to satisfy the boosted infrasonics being maginified through the Mini DSP. You unintentionally CAUSED the perfect electronic storm resulting in the Subwoofer burping on some clipped signal from the CE 4000.
Crown data sheet shows that the amp CAN be used bridged on 4ohm and 8ohm loads. Their data sheet also shows that output capability drops as voltage drops. Crown's output specification in watts ratings are @1000Hz. I'm guessing the amp produces LESS power at 20Hz and below just like any other amp.
Crown data sheet shows it to be capable of running on 240 volts. If the output of the amp and the Ultra doesn't satisfy your need for infrasonics running on 120 volts, consider running the amp on 240 volts.
The Ultra voice coils are 2 ohms each. If they are wired in (series) the voice coil resistance RE is 4 ohms the minimum suggested by Crown running the CE 4000 bridged. If the Ultra happens to be wired in (parallel), the resistance RE will be LESS than 2 ohms! The CE 4000 would NOT be able to deliver full rated power to that kind of load without clipping.
Plug the CE 4000 into it's own electrical circuit and breaker, NOT just another outlet which still may be on the same circuit breaker with the power conditioner.
Make sure the Ultra has the voice coils wired in SERIES and NOT parallel.
Try running the Ultra and the amp without the Mini DSP and see how the combination handles the same passage of TRON where the noise occurred.
Consider running the CE 4000 on 240 volts.
Then report back here.
Ok, i see that i wrote that wrong. when i was being asked about the power conditioner i wrote that it turned everything off. That wasnt the same time when it made the pop. I just put on some rap and cranked it up really loud to see what it can do.

But yes, i am going to do this. I will run the power to a different room
 

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You do need some form of EQ to boost the low end if you really want to experience what the LMS Ultra is capable of. You will still get excellent music bass as it's roll off point is in the 40's or lower depending on room gain. What you will be missing is bass below 35 to 40hz were a lot of movie bass resides unless you have a room with a lot of room gain down low, you never know. The only way to know is to measure the response with Room EQ Wizard which is available to download for free here on the HTS but you will need to get a mic pre-amp and microphone to measure. You can also get a Velodyne SMS-1 that I mentioned before which will not only measure but gives you the ability to add boost down low, add a high pass filter and EQ the response, all with a visual display on your TV.
 

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Discussion Starter #167 (Edited)
well, I haven't tried the scene that lound since the pop. So maybe another variable has come into play that i am not thinking. But there is definately no more pop/woosh since that part was removed. So tomorrow, i am going to test it and see if that was in fact the issue or maybe it was some setting that was changed

The good part, is that i know the problem was solvable somehow.
 

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I would bet that the problem is in the electrical supply. Remember, if you have the system fired up and the curling iron on and the blender and etc and etc, The result will be severely compromised performance from your system. Unless you actually wired our home, you really have little idea of what is actually powering what. That being said, you could easily find out by tripping breakers and seeing what is being powered by that particular breaker. For example, in my theater room, I have a dedicated circuit to each of three lighting sytems on the ceiling. II have a dedicated circuit for my computer equipment, and four circuits for outlets and add ons as needed. That does not include my sound system which has its own dedicated service. It is hard to see the need for this until your lights blink and noises come from the drivers, but when you have enough power feeding the system, you can eliminate some of the bad things that are going to creep up. So, make sure your am is plugged into a circuit in your house that is not being used. Such as the outlets in a spare room, or even try to use the dryer cuircuit as a test if you can reach it. A long speaker cable and rca cable will aid you there.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #171
Brandon,

A different room does not neccessarily mean a different circuit.
Yes i know, all of our breakers are specifically labelled.
The living room is all on one breaker. So the next breaker was the bedroom or main entrance.
I would bet that the problem is in the electrical supply. Remember, if you have the system fired up and the curling iron on and the blender and etc and etc, The result will be severely compromised performance from your system. Unless you actually wired our home, you really have little idea of what is actually powering what. That being said, you could easily find out by tripping breakers and seeing what is being powered by that particular breaker. For example, in my theater room, I have a dedicated circuit to each of three lighting sytems on the ceiling. II have a dedicated circuit for my computer equipment, and four circuits for outlets and add ons as needed. That does not include my sound system which has its own dedicated service. It is hard to see the need for this until your lights blink and noises come from the drivers, but when you have enough power feeding the system, you can eliminate some of the bad things that are going to creep up. So, make sure your am is plugged into a circuit in your house that is not being used. Such as the outlets in a spare room, or even try to use the dryer cuircuit as a test if you can reach it. A long speaker cable and rca cable will aid you there.

Good luck
Yeah, i am going to see what i can do about getting it, its own power
 

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Discussion Starter #172 (Edited)
Try running the Ultra and the amp without the Mini DSP and see how the combination handles the same passage of TRON where the noise occurred.

Consider running the CE 4000 on 240 volts.
Then report back here.
Here is my report on this, Last night i took the EQ off of the sub like suggested and put the amp on half way and watched the passage. ---No pop noise occured.

I then went a notch higher, again, Nothing

I went a notch higher, again, nothing (should have popped by now)

I got a little gutsy and went 3/4.. cone completely dented.... Just kidding. Nothing happened. The cone flexed really hard but no pop

So i wrote on here that it was the EQ doing it. However, i thought about it and realized that i hadn't played with the TRON passage since i messed with Calibrating the Subwoofer to the receiver. At least i couldn't remember if i had. So it seemed unfair to blame the EQ.

So just now i played the passage again without the EQ, Played perfectly fine.

I put the EQ on and played (still at 3/4) but at a lower volume on receiver. POP!!!! so turned it down a couple notches Again POP!!! (only softer) Turned it down some more. NOTHING


Thoughts on this?

And yes i am trying to figure out the 240 aspects in my house. Looks like i would also have to buy a different power cord for the amp to fit the wall outlet
 

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I wish I had an answer for you on the Anti-mode but I am just not familiar with using one. I have never had that problem with any of the other EQ's I have used over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
My eyes bugged out like a cartoon when I read that.



Dude, don't freak me out like that.
hahahaha, i probably would have shed a tear on that one if it did happen. But i was cautious and played it at a lower volume just in case.

I wish I had an answer for you on the Anti-mode but I am just not familiar with using one. I have never had that problem with any of the other EQ's I have used over the years.
i know, its frustrating. If its the problem, then no big deal, i can just get rid of it and get the SMS-1.
 

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Discussion Starter #176 (Edited)
I would bet that the problem is in the electrical supply. Remember, if you have the system fired up and the curling iron on and the blender and etc and etc, The result will be severely compromised performance from your system. Unless you actually wired our home, you really have little idea of what is actually powering what. That being said, you could easily find out by tripping breakers and seeing what is being powered by that particular breaker. For example, in my theater room, I have a dedicated circuit to each of three lighting sytems on the ceiling. II have a dedicated circuit for my computer equipment, and four circuits for outlets and add ons as needed. That does not include my sound system which has its own dedicated service. It is hard to see the need for this until your lights blink and noises come from the drivers, but when you have enough power feeding the system, you can eliminate some of the bad things that are going to creep up. So, make sure your am is plugged into a circuit in your house that is not being used. Such as the outlets in a spare room, or even try to use the dryer cuircuit as a test if you can reach it. A long speaker cable and rca cable will aid you there.

Good luck
I just now seen your build, That sucker is awesome!! Makes mine look like a tinker toy, lol. No wonder you know about power issues

I couldn't imagine what that would sound like, I'm tinkering with mine as we speak, was just playing some more music and heard a rattle (well several actually) but couldn't imagine what this one was. so hunted it down. It was my windows flexing in and out!!! At this volume i'm playing i can literally see them move. So needless to say, i turned it down. Don't want to replace a window/leaks anytime soon
 

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Even though they are labeled, it does not mean the electrician didn't run a few outlets in the hall or the other room because it was close and something he already ran. You would be surprised if you do the check that I mentioned.

I just rewired a rental house I bought and everything was running from somewhere else even though it was clearly marked a certain way in the box.

Good luck and try the dryer outlet if you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #179
I just went to the homedepot and checked out the breakers, outlets, wire. Running the wire in the wall and installing the box won't be a big deal. I imagine the breaker box wont be hard to run wires to it. just got to figure out how to shut my power off. Think its in the neighbors yard.

did you have to cut your power cords and put on a different plug in?
 
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