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I did a Sketchup Drawing of your build. If you would like to use it or if other want to you can check it out in the 3d warehouse under Shiva Sono Sub. I would post a link but havent made it to 5 post yet:rofl2:

I also tried out heating up the pvc. It likes to bounce back to it original form. I also had to use a propane torch for it to actually bend back on its self. First try was a complete failure, I just burnt it to a crisp. The second try turned out much better but..... it also came out of round. I would stick something down the center of the pvc to keep it round as you are forming the flare. It might be just as simple if not quicker to make it out of wood. Just need the right router bit and account for the space that it will take up.

Looking good so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I did a Sketchup Drawing of your build. If you would like to use it or if other want to you can check it out in the 3d warehouse under Shiva Sono Sub. I would post a link but havent made it to 5 post yet:rofl2:

I also tried out heating up the pvc. It likes to bounce back to it original form. I also had to use a propane torch for it to actually bend back on its self. First try was a complete failure, I just burnt it to a crisp. The second try turned out much better but..... it also came out of round. I would stick something down the center of the pvc to keep it round as you are forming the flare. It might be just as simple if not quicker to make it out of wood. Just need the right router bit and account for the space that it will take up.

Looking good so far.
Cool! Thanks man. Love the modelling....that's pretty much what its going to look like! Amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Gluing the flange for the inside end of the port tonight.

Here it is pressing on, displacing all the caulking I put on:



And the other side being sealed with the same caulking.....air leaks will NOT be tolerated!

 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
The portside endcaps that go IN the sonotube were dry today, so I fit them onto the port. The final endcap that resides outside the sonotube will be fit on to the exposed port and then glued to the other endcaps as soon as I sand and paint it. I figured that would be easier to do separately. Same with the driver endcaps....




And sealing the other side. I like this caulking because it cures clear. So that way you know when its dry.



This caulking also feels quite viscous. After applying, it makes a great seal just by running your finger along it.
 

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Looking at the tube height of the sub, it appears it is tall enough to cause a resonance issue at about 105 hz. This can be dealt with by packing in 4-6 inches of fiberglass insulation on the inside of the top cap. Make sure it's well secured, you don't want it to eventually fall down and cover the sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Looking at the tube height of the sub, it appears it is tall enough to cause a resonance issue at about 105 hz. This can be dealt with by packing in 4-6 inches of fiberglass insulation on the inside of the top cap. Make sure it's well secured, you don't want it to eventually fall down and cover the sub.
I was thinking actually about screwing it down with giant washers or something.....

Will this even produce 105hz? The guy's receiver is set for an 80hz crossover...
 

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Discussion Starter #34
That will do fine.
...even easier way to attach it.....use the port. I'm wrapping the port anyways. Well just add more layers to the top 6 inches until it hits the sides of the sonotube! Tie it with string or whatever...it shouldn't move.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Got a lot done today. Assembled the final endcap on to the port-side assembly. Sealed around the edges with caulking...starting to take shape.



Also managed to piece together the driver side endcaps. These circles are ridiculously round for being hanf-cut with a jig saw. Broke my flute-bit for my router and I figured I had a steady enough hand.....more dumb luck than anything. With the sanding, these are basically perfectly round to the naked eye:




Also sealed the whole inside with caulking. I figured this would make a nice natural gasket when its fully-dried....no chances of any air leaks from what I can see! Should be ready for final sanding on Sunday and then maybe some painting!

 

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Discussion Starter #36
Also cut and sanded the driver protection base plate. Attached the legs and this should also be good for painting this Sunday!


Here with the legs just standing in place:




Screwed them in and counter-sunk the screws on the other side. That's the side that will be on the floor, and it will also have a big felt pad cut out and stuck to it.

 

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Discussion Starter #37
Two questions:

1) For the dampening material, I see people use egg-crate mattress. Does it have to have those bumps on it? Do they serve a purpose? I have foamy mattress made from the EXACT same material, but its smooth. Is that ok?

2) For wiring the Shiva-X driver to the binding posts, can I use 16AWG wire? Its only going to be 9 inches in length, is this ok?
 

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1. Not for the top end cap. You'll need fiberglass insulation that been packed down so it's 4-6 inches thick. You can use the foam mattress pad to line the sides as long as it's open cell foam.

2. 16 gauge seems a little light to me. I wouldn't go smaller then 12 gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
1. Not for the top end cap. You'll need fiberglass insulation that been packed down so it's 4-6 inches thick. You can use the foam mattress pad to line the sides as long as it's open cell foam.

2. 16 gauge seems a little light to me. I wouldn't go smaller then 12 gauge.
Can I use 12/2 electricians wire, or does it have to be special speaker wire only?
 
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