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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was the winner of the Shiva-X giveaway and just received the driver. Thanks Kevin! I also ordered 2 15" PR's and want to build the NeoDan end table design below. I have an EP-2500 for power and an SMS-1 for hpf and eq. This is my first build. I do have quite a bit of previous wood working experience but could use some help.

First off I need to gather all the tools and materials. I already picked up some 3/4" MDF for the cabinet and will be using a circular saw with clamped guide to make the straight cuts. I also picked up a Jasper 200 for cutting the circles for the driver and pr's. This design only has a single layer baffle for the driver and pr's. Should I consider using 2 layers to flush mount them?

Should I use screws or hurricane nuts for attaching hardware?
What speaker terminals work the best? speakons?
I need to buy a bunch of clamps. Any recommendations?
What else do I need?

Thanks,
Steve


 

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I highly recommend the Jet Brand Parallel Clamps Jet Brand Parallel Clamps. That is assuming you plan on doing any woodworking in the future as they are a little expensive...these will last you a lifetime, are easy to engage and disengage, pull very parallel, and are very solid and stay square. I used them on my 41" X 37" X 23" box, and I only wish I had more!

Tightbond 2 for adhesive, and a good silicon adhesive/sealant to seal it up once the wood glue is cured. Gorilla glue (or similar) for locking in whatever T-nuts or Hurricane nuts you pick. I went with regular T-nuts because that's what was easy for me to get.
 

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If this is a one-time project, you can screw and glue it and get away without buying clamps.

Standard wood glue is fine. I use Titebond and it works fine. I would flush up all the drivers, which means a 2nd layer of MDF.

Kevin Haskins
Exodus Audio
 

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If you use screws then you'll have to pre drill the holes first or the MDF will split.
You can buy some trim head tek screws. Self drilling, so you do not have to drill a hole first and they have a small head that will recess into the panel. www.grkfasteners.com/en/TRIM_0_information.htm. You can assemble a box using glue and these screws and after you have built the box you can still route (round-off) the corners. Just be sure to use a depth guide when installing the screws. A simple depth guide can be be tape on the driver so that you visually see the depth needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm going to build more subs so I bought some bar and pipe clamps from harbor freight. Also picked up some speakon connectors and barbed inserts for mounting the drivers.

Made some progress today and got all the pieces cut. Should I cut the holes for the driver and PR's before gluing the box together? Is there any particluar order the pieces of the box should be assembled in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Those are barbed inserts not t-nuts. I agree it would be better to have the collar on the inside. It was too hard to pound them in from the inside with the box assembled. So I used urethane adhesive and pounded them in from the outside. They aren't going anywhere.
 
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