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Discussion Starter #1
Hi gang--

Here we go again. I have a couple of SI D2 18" beasts in my home now. So I figured I had better start doing something with them.

*Warning* This is going to be a long (long, long) slow build. Ran my first marathon a few months ago. It's all about the pacing :). First order of business is to find a buyer (or two) for the Dayton's. I don't even have room to store them anywhere, so they's got's'ta'go.

I'm looking for feedback on the three stand designs I mocked up. What do you think?

Basic parameters are 400 liter / 14.1 ft^3, 14Hz, 9" port. I really need to find a 22" Sonotube. The way my movie room is set up with my new 70" Sony, I only have room for a pair of 24" width subs (that's gross-width). So hopefully, I'll be able to track down some 22"ers... drat, I just realized my current design exceeds 6' tube length (one 12' tube chopped in half), so back to the drawing board for a few more tweaks.

I'll dump a few pictures in this post to get the ball rolling. I'll follow up with some more soon. For now, it's all on paper except for the massive drivers in my bedroom. I will flare (~3/4" radius) the top and bottom of the port. You may notice a flared donut in the sketchup shot (I didn't want to mess with trying to flare the top in sketchup :scratch: ).

Here's a link to my design spreadsheet. I'm using it to calculate all the cut dimesions and working volume. SI 18 Design Sheet

Thanks for reading,
--Myles

 

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Wow, these are going to be beasts! I'm looking forward to the build! Looks like you have a very cool idea for the base for these :T
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I robbed the basic idea from this guy and then riffed on it a little. I want to go with natural wood colored end-caps though. And thin black bottom plate (painted 1/2" mdf).

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?217880-Monster-Sonosub-build/page3

I got out the tape measure again. I may *just barely* have room for 24" inside diameter tubes. Good thing since I can't hit my 14hz tune in a 22" tube while staying shorter than 6' tube length, and >= 8.5" port. Let me brew up a few more screen grabs...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok! Finally sold the 15" Dayton coffins. Some dude got an outstanding deal of $200/per. They had been on CL for a long time. I finally got tired of waiting for Mr. Right to come along.

So, here we go. It's still going to go slow. But it's actually going to start happening now.

While I'm sub-less, I moved my little 8" boomer in here and shoved it all the way into the corner for maximum gain. WOW! I'm literally shocked at how much boom this little guy can put out. Were it not for subsonic lust, I would be tempted to put an 8" "Baby LLT" in each corner of the room.

Time to scrub my calculations and hit the local concrete supply store with my Home Depot truck rental. I called a while back and they stocked 24" SonoTube for something like $80/12ft.

Also need to see if my home brew circle jig is big enough for 25" diameter cuts. Probably not. So that'll be job-1.

Let's light these candles!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Could only get 8 1/4" sonotube from HD for the ports, so I made some minor design modifications. Here are some prices for the curious (all #'s are tax-included).

12' of 24" tube (WhitCap brand) - $120
Pickup rental from HD - $25
2 x 8.25" x 48" tubes - $14

Sold my EP4000 for $300 to the guy that bought the Daytons. Ordered an iNuke6000 to replace it. Guess I need to hunt down a mod thread and order some quiet fans too.

iNuke6000 - $350-shipped (no sales tax; avoid Amazon for big-ticket items)

The short one is actual height (65 3/8"). Still need to cut down the other remainder.

 

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Ordered an iNuke6000 to replace it. Guess I need to hunt down a mod thread and order some quiet fans too.
Just a FYI unlike the iNuke 300 DSP, you cant add more heatsinks to the 6000 as it uses the bottom of the chassis as a large heatsink rather than having heatsinks on the chips themselves. As such you need airflow between the bottom of the chassis and where the board is.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeh, I was reading that last night. But I think that just replacing the fans with a couple of Noctua's should be good enough. There doesn't look to be any air flow routing flanges to cause wind noise.

I'll replace the fans in my HTPC while I'm at it. That should give me an overall nice and quiet room.

Looks like I'll be ordering 4 Noctua's @ $15 a pop.
 

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Yeh, I was reading that last night. But I think that just replacing the fans with a couple of Noctua's should be good enough. There doesn't look to be any air flow routing flanges to cause wind noise.

I'll replace the fans in my HTPC while I'm at it. That should give me an overall nice and quiet room.

Looks like I'll be ordering 4 Noctua's @ $15 a pop.
Make sure you get the right sizes for each.

The iNukes take 80mm... your HTPC may take 120's (could also take 80's).

I had the Noctua 80mm in a HTPC and it was dead silent.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It occurred to me that there's a practical reason people typically do dowel/tube feet on sonosubs - you want to be able to remove the driver if ever needed. My newfangled base does not allow driver access, or at least enough space to remove/re-install one. So I'm going to have to come up with a method to make the base detachable. Perhaps well hidden small L-brackets, or carefully aligned dowels/holes. I want to do one of these bases, so I'll come up with something...
 

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Hey woods,
I used hurricane nuts on the back side of my sono baffle. Worked like a charm. My dowels are also made from an aluminum concrete rake, that I put in a chop saw, and polished. Wood works good too though. Closet hanger pole works good.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
But look at the images in my first post. If I can't remove my fancy base, then there's no way to get the driver in/out. Well, I can get it in at the time of first-assembly, but then never out again. Unless I make the base detachable, which I will have to do. Not a huge deal. I would like to use pin-dowels into holes (think Ikea), but I'm worried about getting alignment right. I will have to drill the holes while the base is "dry attached" w/ clamps.

Yeh, I know, what I'm typing might be tough to visualize.
 

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But look at the images in my first post. If I can't remove my fancy base, then there's no way to get the driver in/out. Well, I can get it in at the time of first-assembly, but then never out again. Unless I make the base detachable, which I will have to do. Not a huge deal. I would like to use pin-dowels into holes (think Ikea), but I'm worried about getting alignment right. I will have to drill the holes while the base is "dry attached" w/ clamps. Yeh, I know, what I'm typing might be tough to visualize.
I think I follow you. (Btw, I'm an idiot. Should have looked back at pics before typing. Sorry) I think the dowel thing could work well. But your right about alignment. That might be tricky. I assume they would be a pressure fit then?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
All these smilies and no :idea: or :lightbulb: ??

I came up with a plan for making the base removable. All wood used to build the base and baffle ring will be 3/4" oak veneer plywood. I will plunge-route/chisel 4 "sockets" (mortises?) into the baffle ring ~1/4" deep. Then drill-press a 1/4" hole through the last 1/2" of plywood under the mortise. Then fit my base into the mortises. Then use the previously drilled hole as a pilot to drill down into the 4 legs of the base, probably ~2" deep. Then fill these 4 holes w/ 1/4" dowels. Glue the dowels only to the baffle ring (this is the only part that worries me slightly). Cut off dowels and sand them down smooth. This should create a very sturdy compression fit for the base. It's unlikely I'll ever remove a driver, but I can't stand the thought of just not being able to at all. Stuff happens (and stuffing happens, and...).

:sn:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I also came up with what I think will be a cool idea for the base of the base. It looks nice in my head. I'll let it be a surprise.

Big plus: my cheapo home-brew circle jig is just barely big enough to do 25" diameter circles, so that'll save me an hour of making a new one :bigsmile:. I lost one of my router base bolts :doh: and had to order a replacement online. Add another $8 to the total bill ($1.50 for 3 bolts + $6 shipping). Too bad I forgot to also order precisely sized hex-head bolts to mount the driver... double-:doh:. I doubt I'll find what I need at HD.

AmericanMusicalSupply still hasn't shipped my iNuke6000. Good thing I'm not in a hurry. I placed my order on 4/26 :paddle:.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did some shopping today.

  • Finally got my NU6000 and noticed that it only has Neutrik hookups. I considered putting Neutrik connectors on the subs, but I can't really see the benefit. So I just got two cable mounts. I'll stick with the trusty Dayton BPA-38 binding posts I've already purchased.

  • I had a few leftover 1/4"-20 hex-head bolts from the last build. Even though they turned out to be a really bad match for the Daytons, they're perfect for the SIs. The bolt fits through the hole and the head can be pulled through the hole in the rubber gasket around the driver. They also fit the hurricane nuts I have leftover. So I ordered two batches of bolts.

  • I'll never understand why the rubber gasket around the driver isn't sufficient to seal the driver in, but everyone else is using gasket foam, so for $4/sub extra, I figured why not.

  • And then, to get myself free shipping and $10-off-$100, I went ahead and threw in another simple little DIY project for a later date. The Overnight Sensations look to be one of the best SQ/$ deals anywhere, if you believe the reviewers ($116 for the pair after my discounts).

  • And finally, 2 fans for the NU6000 and 2 for my HTPC (all Noctua). Silence is golden, and pricey. :spend:
Yes, it's going slow, but I'll get there eventually. One thing slowing me down is how awesome this little 8" sub has been as a temporary substitute sub (subsub). Maybe I should disconnect it to motivate myself.

 
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