Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

21 - 40 of 73 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
683 Posts
Looks awesome so far! :T I like the idea of the little 1/8" roundover to smooth that last edge a bit. Are you going to roundover the other four edges of the baffle to match inside? From what I understand besides looking really cool it reduces standing waves.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,074 Posts
First I clamp the brace in place with no glue, then drill pilot holes for the screws, screw in the screws, then pull them out and take off the clamps. I then apply glue to the brace then reinsert the screws, this pulls them back nicely to where they should be.
I like this method, it sounds like a great way to make sure things stay where they're actually supposed to. Nothing worse than having everything all measured and tweaked to dry fit perfectly, and then having it pulled out of alignment by a screw that wouldn't cooperate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Long work day so I didnt get anything done on the box, maybe tomorrow. yes I do plan a roundover on the outside, probably just on the sides and leave the top and bottom just sanded over a bit. I picked up an inexpensive 1" radius roundover so Ill give that a try.
DSC01011.jpg
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,869 Posts
Hold on to that router with those helicopters. :D I have a 1" and 1 1/4" I use. They will run away on you if you dont watch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Good advice on the big roundover bit, I thought I'd start with a 1/2" bit then ease into the 1". I only have 4 edges to do so I'll take it slow.
Worked on mounting hardware for the woofer today. After a long work day so I was kind of beat, but still I think things turned out ok.

Started out using a cheap 1/8" roundover bit on the outside woofer cutout. Exactly what I wanted.

sub 51.jpg

I had an issue with just loose fitting the mounting screws through the woofer holes. First off I'm using 1/4" bolts and t-nuts. I thought maybe the big thick rubber gasket-tire like thing fitted on the outside of the metal basket itself is only meant for 3/16" bolts. So I looked at it from the back side, pulling the thick rubber gasket away so I could see the hole itself. It seemed plenty big. I realized that I'm not going to get a good fit with this big rubber gasket on, so I just took it off. Luckily, I guess, its not glued on. Then I seen I had another problem. The surround. Yeah its really tall and high and excursion capable. It's also thick, at least a 1/16". My particular surround was also glued on like this:

sub 43.jpg

Every hole. If its not clear from the pic; the surround holes aren't glued in place with the basket holes. Sometimes an 1/8" is important. I tried one hole, just pushing through the surround; yeah this happens:

sub 44.jpg

Well that's just ugly. I then took a new exacto knife and very carefully cut out every hole, which is not easy, like I said this is some thick rubber. An hour later I had shaved away enough to see the actual basket holes. Hell yeah! Now I know where to drill.
Make shift 90 degree jig.

sub 47.jpg

Thanks to dougc and his killer build for his excellent visual tutorial on how to install t-nuts.
This is after all t-nuts in glued and dried.

sub 48.jpg

1/2" Chamfer action. I already had this bit, so didnt want to buy a bigger one. I think it will work well enough though. It might be a bit dull though. Get it, a "bit" dull. Humor, I love it!

sub 49.jpg

Yep, its dull, plus I was going slow to see things.

sub 50.jpg

Thats it for today.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,869 Posts
Were the holes not predrilled already?

As in there was no surround in the way of the whole from SI?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
"I had an issue with just loose fitting the mounting screws through the woofer holes. First off I'm using 1/4" bolts and t-nuts. I thought maybe the big thick rubber gasket-tire like thing fitted on the outside of the metal basket itself is only meant for 3/16" bolts. So I looked at it from the back side, pulling the thick rubber gasket away so I could see the hole itself. It seemed plenty big. I realized that I'm not going to get a good fit with this big rubber gasket on, so I just took it off. Luckily, I guess, its not glued on. Then I seen I had another problem. The surround. Yeah its really tall and high and excursion capable. It's also thick, at least a 1/16". My particular surround was also glued on like this:"


Were the holes not predrilled already?

As in there was no surround in the way of the whole from SI?
What he means is that the cutouts on the outside edges of the surround for the mounting holes were not actually lined up with the mounting holes on the metal basket when the surround was glued on. The cutouts on the surround are made before the surround is glued to the basket at the factory so basically, if the person attaching the surround is not careful, all of the holes will not line up.
Both of my SI 18"s are this way. Nick from SI and I have had a few emails back and forth about it which included photos of mine. Hopefully they will get this straightened out (pun intended) in the next round of shipments.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
188 Posts
I had to cut a hole in my brand new Jasper jig too, and I'm glad you posted the photo of the vac hose on the router since I have the same router and couldn't figure out how to hook mine up
Here's a simple tip...you can always use a different sized bit with the jig. The difference in hole size will be the same as the difference of the router bit used (to the standard 1/4").
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Here's a simple tip...you can always use a different sized bit with the jig. The difference in hole size will be the same as the difference of the router bit used (to the standard 1/4").
not completely right. a 3/4 will only get you an extra 1/4 over the standard 1/4 bit. i had to drill another hole in mine also. just go up to where the 18 5/8 would be and measure over 1/2 inch from hole center.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
188 Posts
not completely right. a 3/4 will only get you an extra 1/4 over the standard 1/4 bit. i had to drill another hole in mine also. just go up to where the 18 5/8 would be and measure over 1/2 inch from hole center.
How do you figure? Doesn't the radius of the circle increase by half of the difference in bit sizes? Which means you gain the whole difference in diameter. Imagine the sizing was referenced to the center point in the router bit chuck (which it should be, since the mounting holes intend for the bit to be centered in the jig's bit hole). The scale (markings) is then adjusted for the 1/4" bit. I may be seeing it wrong though. Btw, I sometimes use a smaller bit when I'm not happy with the 1/16" increments, and it works as calculated. Wouldn't be the first time my old brain failed me though.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,255 Posts
That is a lot more wood to cut too with a larger bit, but that would work in a pinch if you break your bit by going too fast, like I did.

The holes in the rubber gasket are small, but you can just pull it aside to fit the bolts in. The gasket springs back in to shape in short time
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
188 Posts
lol right you are, i was thinking of just the radius and not the full diameter.
No problem, it took me a while to wrap my head around the math when I first toyed with the idea. I use this method to route the recess for drivers, instead of routing the cutout then rabbeting for the recess. Anyway, back to our topic. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
I had an issue with just loose fitting the mounting screws through the woofer holes. First off I'm using 1/4" bolts and t-nuts. I thought maybe the big thick rubber gasket-tire like thing fitted on the outside of the metal basket itself is only meant for 3/16" bolts. So I looked at it from the back side, pulling the thick rubber gasket away so I could see the hole itself. It seemed plenty big. I realized that I'm not going to get a good fit with this big rubber gasket on, so I just took it off. Luckily, I guess, its not glued on. Then I seen I had another problem. The surround. Yeah its really tall and high and excursion capable. It's also thick, at least a 1/16". My particular surround was also glued on like this:

View attachment 40045

Every hole. If its not clear from the pic; the surround holes aren't glued in place with the basket holes. Sometimes an 1/8" is important. I tried one hole, just pushing through the surround; yeah this happens:

View attachment 40048

Well that's just ugly. I then took a new exacto knife and very carefully cut out every hole, which is not easy, like I said this is some thick rubber. An hour later I had shaved away enough to see the actual basket holes. Hell yeah! Now I know where to drill.
Make shift 90 degree jig.
We have heard of one other woofer that did not have the surround holes lined up 100% perfectly with the basket holes. While we are addressing this on future production runs note that the same problem you had would have happened regardless because the surround holes are the same size as the basket holes. We had a similar issue years ago with our BM mkIII shallow subwoofers and the solution is to use very small washers under the screw/bolt you are using to mount the subwoofer. That way the screw/bolt doesn't grab the surround itself and twist it around when torquing down the screw/bolt. :T

Project looks good so far! :bigsmile:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,869 Posts
I have only had a few subwoofers that did have the holes match up. Most did not. Although I feel SI will correct the problem where as the other companies still dont have the holes matching up. And this is a first run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
I never thought of using a larger bit for routing out the hole. Beings that I would have had to buy one I would have just drilled an extra hole in my jig anyway. Im cheap that way.

As for the non matching holes on the woofer, it wasnt so much the curling of the surround when tightening the bolts down. I figured out that a small washer would help with that, but it was just the difficulty that it created in seeing the actual holes and pushing a bolt through. A little trimming and all is good to go now, so no harm no foul. Its nice to see someone from the company reading the forums and acknowledging an issue with their product. I have to say other than that small issue the driver seems very well put together and very impressive, especially considering the price.

Glued up the baffle today. First the double layer plywood inner baffle.
sub 52.jpg

Then the outside mdf piece.
sub 53.jpg

I really need to get some more bar clamps, I hate relying on all those screws. Oh well maybe next time.
I weighed the baffle pieces before I glued them up. Taking the 135 lbs I had before the baffle, then adding the 29 lbs for the baffle then the 52 lbs for the driver, Im looking at 216 lbs. Uhg.

Im really getting amped to get this thing rumbling. I picked up a Beringer EP 4000 on Amazon Prime for $275 shipped awhile back. Its more power than I need but for that price I figured I could only use one channel for now then possibly run another 18 later on with the other channel. I'll probably pick up a mini DSP too, though Im going to try it without just so I know the difference.

Tomorrow night I'll start on the finish; filling screw holes with wood filler and sanding. I bought some bondo and meant to try it out but man, the smell. My garage is also my studio, so I work in there during the day so I try to limit noxious vapors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
349 Posts
install the subwoofer once in place and your back will thank you. also make sure all the fumes from the caulk are gone before instaling. the fumes can damage the surround
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,074 Posts
216 lbs! That is a monster enclosure, Code Red. It looks great though, and its nice to see you take the time to address things the way you did, like gluing and setting the T nuts, and cleaning up the speaker surround. Should pay off with a very nice final product.
 
21 - 40 of 73 Posts
Top