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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Heres what I have setup for my sub. I have an AA avalanche 15. I have it in a 10cuft box with a ~16hz tune. The port is a 6in diameter PVC pipe with a length of 2ft. I am powering the sub with a ep2500. The signal is coming from a denon 2809ci.

Now I currently have the ep2500 with the dial set at the 9o'clock position with the denon sub level down to -4. I know this does not mean much in regards to voltage settings. But I am having this nasty snap sound coming from the sub.

For example I was playing the last couple scenes in transformers where there is alot of stuff blowing up and whatnot. A couple of the scenes dig real deep. The bass is impressive but when it gets REAL deep, my sub makes this gut wretching SNAP sound. Not a bottoming out sound, but like you are snapping some thin wood. At which point I turn it all the way back down, and the sub operates normally.

I come from the 12volt world so I have had plenty of experience with subs, even blew my own once, so i know what bottoming out soudns like, but I have NEVER heard this sound before. On scenes with normal bass, I can turn the dial past 12 o'clock and at that point it will be substantial bass. But the only way I can safely eliminate that snapping sound is to turn the dial allll the way down. The dip switches are all set correctly except for the clip limiter(off), which I would assume would have no effect as it only limits the clipping on the amp side (correct me if im wrong).

I duplicated the sonotube designs from either this site or htguide, with exception i used a box instead of a sonotube, I have not heard of anyone having this problem before. Does anyone have any advice, the only thing I can think of is making a new box and bringing the tune up to 20hz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeup, I was under the assumption they were all xbl2? they discontinued them in 06 i think. I mean to be hionest i did not give it the least bit of time to break in, but i doubt that would affect performance that much and cause that nasty sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hmm, im not too familiar with filters. I was under the assumption a low pass filter woudl filter all the upper frequencys and play the higher ones. and a high pass would play all the upper and not play the lower. hahha i take that back makes plently of sense. now my question is, how do i implement this, or is this a setting ont he reciever?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Fs 15.7 Hz
Qms 3.5
Qes .334
Qts .305
Vas 300.6 L
Re 3.2 ohms
Znom* 4 ohms
Xmax 27 mm
Sd 749 cm2
Mms 269 g
Vd 4.04 L
Pnom 800 watts
Le 2.4 mH
Cutout 14.125"
Diameter 15.5"
Depth 7.875"
Weight 37 pounds

here are the specs I have a bfd I have not used yet. Would that be able to create a high pass filter?
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
makes plenty of sense. I was messing around with ISD earlier and it looks just like what you have above? I tried it unbridged in stereo mode which would be ~650 or so watts. Although it did the popping less it still did it. So I've been looking high and low for a good hpf filter and it looks like the reckhorn b1 fits the bill. Correct me if im wrong but the b2 only has benefits if you want it to start rolling off at 10-12 hz. Does anyone know of any other alternatives. From my research I am under the assumption the BFD cannot do a hpf by effectively rolling it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I've never physically heard tinsel slap before, so i woudlnt know what it sounds like. The subs I have dont have that problem. I thought it was more along the lines of the FI and RE subs, the xxx in particular. But I received my b-1 today and im going to give it a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
My problem is solved! I can actually turn it up to decent levels with my ssf in. Thanks everyone! Now my next question is would running this in bridged mode fry the coils? I know they were rated at around 800 roughly, and i know they can take a bit more. There are some people running 1k daily music systems in their car. Going by whats been measured it seems the ep2500 makes around 650-700 in stereo mode with a 4ohm load, and in bridged mode it makes a measured 1600 before the breaker gives out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
You come from the 12v world so you might know what im talking about. My car system consists of a single 15 RLP. I measured at around 142db at the dash. Now the tune on that is about 28hz. My reasoning is that my ear isnt used to such low tunes. Im used to more musical subs that have a larger range than these dedicated HT subs have. So I might be having higher expectations from the sub in the HT application. I have a a2-300 that knocks on music, but for real HT duty, it bottoms out too quickly.

I doubt its tinsel lead slap. Im not sure why its bottoming out, other than a poorly designed box. I spoke with i think Nick the owner of AA and he was recommending that I did not go with a PVC pipe. For some reason he did not like to use them in his installs and prefrered the traditional L port. The speaker wire would be non issue and even if it was, it wouldn't sound like what was happening before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
it was one of them, i always get them two confused. Well then do you have any idea what the problem is? I think the upper frequency's are completely lacking. but the lower ones are amazing, shakes the whole room. I do have a bfd and I have yet to do measurements. Also do you know how with car audio we tune with scopes to get the maximum out, is that possible with a HT sub? Say I leave it in stereo, and I want the full 700 safe watts. Could i just run a test tone at say 30 hz, and ramp up the amp to max?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I completely understand. I had it set on bridged before, and the members recommended I set it to stereo just to check the bottoming out issue. I havent set it back yet just because I know for a fact that 700 watts wont kill the sub. Setting it to bridged mode opens up 1600+. I just dont want to fry the coils on that much power. Now I know limited time periods with that much power wont hurt the sub one bit. But still I dont know how much to set it at. In a car I only have one point to match the gain....between the headunit and the amp. With this setup, I have the recv to the reckhorn to the ep2500. That introduces another point to voltage match. I hate not being able to set this stuff definitively.
 
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