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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here we go....got the tempest x today and it shocked me when i opened the box. Ive never seen a sub with 1 1/2" surround!!! Pictures dont do justice you have to see one of these in person!!

Tempest cone


Tempest basket


******* ports (6" pvc pipe found at one of our jobsites)


******* sonotube (bought damaged ends tube for a discount)


******* mdf (went to our cabinet supplier and got free scraps)


******* straight edge (afflack brochure makes great circular square lines)


cutting the sonotube (use tape to hold the saw guard up)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
This probrably aint going to be one of those "i started today and will be done tomorrow" type builds. I havent found any of the router bits yet and plan on veneering it eventually with some cherry looking veneer with mdf black endcaps.

Will post more pics as i get more done

Some specs:

Sonotube is 18" diameter, 1/4" wall, and 5'3" tall ( 223 L )

(EDIT: please note this is too small for a tempest X, i had originally followed another sonosub build and used its dimensions, but he was using the old tempest and i never modeled the tempest X ) If using a tempest x.....you should be able to do this with a 24" tube ( 475 L ) and all other dimesions can remain the same.

mdf is 3/4" with misc veneer on it already (free mdf)

pvc is 6" diameter and also 1/4" wall, going for 36" for now giving a tuning of 15.2hz

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Routering is started. I thought the best way to do it would be use the 1/4" bit i had but that proved to be very hard work and the bit broke after about a foot of cutting. I then went back to my $20 set i bought some 7 years ago and pulled out the 1/2" bit. This cut way better and hardly strained the router.









 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I found the only circle jig in town at sears. I asked them if it fit any router and of course he said yes. Turns out it only fit one sears router and thats it. So i dug out my router accesories and found that i had plates to mount it to my Ryobi bt3000 wood cutting sytem (really cool table saw, i have the extension rails, air flotation table, router/jigsaw mount, rear extension which im using in the pics, and put the whole thing on rollers.) I first put the mount plate on the router then i noticed that the jigsaw plate that came in the kit would bolt onto the router plate. Two slots were about 3" long and the other two were only 1/2" long so i turned our drill press into a cnc machine and elongated the 1/2" slot for more adjustment. A drill press with drill bits does a horrible job acting as a cnc machine and i got a very ulgy slot but it works.





I drilled holes in certain places on the jigsaw plate that i used for positioning the dowl (screw driver) and then used the slots for final adjustment. For the smaller holes i had to actually drill holes in the router plate which i didnt really want to do. This actually worked really well. Only thing that sucks is drilling holes in alluminum, it alll gets plugged up onto the drill and quits cutting at the tip and you have to clean it out and go agian. I ended up with about 8 holes total, only two were drilled when pic was taken.

Heres the woofer mounting plate

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Waiting for binding posts, router bit for port flare, and base plate.

Ya, you guessed it, im not going to wait for stuff to try it out......no glue, its all just resting there. Sounds amazing and i have a x over set at 50hz. The reciever has no sub x over in it, it sounds full range.



Theater room
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Will take measurements some day....no meter yet.

Here we have the binding posts being attached to the sonotube. I had to use some nut spacers as the dayton binding posts were made for 3/4" material





This is the port which im going to flare on each end. I just glued the inner end on it and will router the flare when dry. Im going to take about an inch off the inner circle yet its a little big.



3/8" round over and the new 1" round over bit

 

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That 1" roundover bit is huge! Are you going to do a full one inch on both ends of the port? I guess this is becoming more standard practice and more of a necessity with the amount of air the recent drivers are pushing, but it's funny that with my old Tempest I didn't even think about doing it except possibly for cosmetic reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Heres my dayton binding posts. I had to add nuts for spacers since they are made for 3/4" material and the sono is only 1/4"





heres in inner port flare mdf before cutting or shaping



after 1" roundover and 3/8" on outside lip



exterior flare



and you all were wondering why those tires were there.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
LOL, wow. I never did get this painted or covered. I did find out that the wooden blocks i had it sitting on in the upright position was not a good idea, I discovered it was actaully lifting itself off the blocks during playback!!!

Since then i just set it on its side, it works pretty well in this position, it lessons the sweet spot. I normally have it rolled back against the bumpout shown, its acts as a good reflector.


Its been powered by this 500w bash amp for a couple years now.







Also got some new (old) mains, JBL L5's




Shot of my electronics, onkyo receiver, dish 722, HD DVD, and blue ray





A better looking metal mount i made for the PJ, painted it wrinkle brown to match the sconces.
 
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