Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys...my brother is sorta internet "challenged" but he would like to find some information on Sonotube builds. I know there is a wealth of information here and on other sites, but I was hoping someone could point out some of the better build threads.

He has a very large open area in his house (living room, kitchen, dining, den)....somewhere in the neighborhood of 9000 cubic feet floor over unfinished basement that will probably some day be the HT room.

Right now he's got a rigged up Dayton 8'' subwoofer replacing the old driver in his old subwoofer he's had for 15 years. As you can imagine it is just a boomer but he's been fairly happy with the new driver. It bottomed out something awful on him the other day while watching Iron Man so he's all about wanting to better himself with something bigger.

I know the typical advice would be to suggest a good size driver for a room that size. Sadly the WAF is not going to go for something gigantic. So we are thinking about building a Sonotube with a 12'' to 15'' driver and not something bigger. Thinking column not hot water heater sized. :yay:
I am going to point him to the software program so he can download that and play around with the numbers.

Not sure what to really expect in terms of budget. We were hoping he could build a real nice one for approx $600 including an external amp...Beringer perhaps. He also talked about wrapping the cyclinder with some kind of birchwood veneer so if anyone has examples of this...that would be awesome.

To give you more background on his other equipment. He has a Onkyo 674 reciever, Polk L, C, R (towers) not sure of specific models but probably circuit city quality, and the surrounds are ceiling mounted models for a 7.1 configuration.

Anyway...words of wisdom are greatly appreachiated....threads with plenty of visual stimulus is what I'm really looking for.


Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
393 Posts
If he's doing columns, he should have matching columns, one for each side of the room. :devil:

WAF can be appeased: "But it looks so much better, my love! Having just one would make the decor so unbalanced!"

Good luck with that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I told him to build something that looks like furniture and she'd never notice (she's always working anyways)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
I have an Onkyo 674 and am building some tubes myself. In my case, WAF was not an issue. But this is what I did (well, am still working on but have bought all the parts); (2) 6' tubes, 24" diameter $78 or so for both, some 8" diameter sono tube for the ports about $4 each at home depot, (2) 18" elemental designs 19ov.2 drivers $190 shipped each, behringer EP2500 amp to give each driver 650w each $300, behringer feedback destroyer $99, and another $50 or so on 1/4" cables, wires, binding posts, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ok...we might be moving on to plan B. He's thinking about doing an IB system. I think maybe he's been shot down by the wife. :foottap:

Help me understand something. I've always been under the impression that an IB system is far less tolerable than building an enclosed traditional sub. In other words if you've got 9000 cubic foot of open air...you better have enough driver(s) to move the air where as with an enclosed system you might be apt to cheat a little bit.

Second question. Dollar for dollar...what is the best way to go? IB or Sonosub? Or does it really matter?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,397 Posts
With the same sub in an IB and an "enclosed traditional box", the IB will have less output because it reaches its excursion limit with less power input. The upside of an IB is it doesn't take up any room and the "sound "is really good according to the people that have them.
With an 8 foot ceiling, 9000 cu.ft. translates into 1125 square feet. It's going to take some serious "woofage" to fill that size area if HT is what you're aiming for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,431 Posts
Good IB drivers can be less expensive too as the motor doesn't have to be as strong since it isn't designed to be used in small to medium boxes. You can get 4 solid 15's for $400, or 8 15's, or 4 big 18's for $800. Driver vs driver you can get more spl out of a big EBS vented, or nearly any other alignment, but that's why you just double or quadruple up on the IB drivers since they are cheaper and there is not much enclosure costs, or space taken up. Just power all of them with one beefy amp and you get plenty of output. IB is basically about being overkill. With that much cone area, even at very high output levels, the drivers should be in the comfort zone since they all share the work load.

The biggest thing to watch out for is whether the proposed IB location will end up with a decent FR at the listening position. You don't want to install it and set everything up to realize that you have a big 20db null at 60hz and a nasty peak at 35hz!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Good IB drivers can be less expensive too as the motor doesn't have to be as strong since it isn't designed to be used in small to medium boxes. You can get 4 solid 15's for $400, or 8 15's, or 4 big 18's for $800. Driver vs driver you can get more spl out of a big EBS vented, or nearly any other alignment, but that's why you just double or quadruple up on the IB drivers since they are cheaper and there is not much enclosure costs, or space taken up. Just power all of them with one beefy amp and you get plenty of output. IB is basically about being overkill. With that much cone area, even at very high output levels, the drivers should be in the comfort zone since they all share the work load.

The biggest thing to watch out for is whether the proposed IB location will end up with a decent FR at the listening position. You don't want to install it and set everything up to realize that you have a big 20db null at 60hz and a nasty peak at 35hz!
Yeah...he's thinking of putting it under the stair well...it's a rather large area under the stair well leading into the basement area as far as stair wells go so I guess it would work. I told him he's probably going to have to consider putting something like open cell spray foam between the studs so his stair well isn't buzzing. Don't know so much about where the ideal location is...but we'll certainly explore some things before getting too carried away. We live about 500 miles apart so it's hard for me to EQ everything for him over the phone.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top