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Discussion Starter #1
Moved into the new house in October 2004

Started to plan basement development in spring of 2006 ... we have about 1100 sq ft ( not including stairwell and furnace room ) ... The plan was to develop a theater, games room, gym, bathroom and hallway


Theater is 23'2" X 14'3"

Games Room 22'2" X 10'7"

Gym 13' X 10'

Bathroom 8' X 9'

Basement layout

 

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Looks like a nice plan. Just a couple of things.

The screen is very big for a room that size. IMO, the only way that will work is if you go with an AT screen. As it sits now, the speakers are way too close to the side walls and you'll have issues. It also minimizes the ability to use broadband bass control in those 2 corners. Your rear corners aren't an option given the door location so the front two are kind of important.

Bryan
 

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We initially bought a 110" diagonal RichVision retractable screen on ebay with a HD70 projector and planned to put a plasma behind it for everyday watching in the theater

I started to research dedicated home theaters ... the HD70 and the retractable screen that I had bought for the home theater I decided to move into the games room

So I bought a HD80, CAVX anamorphic lens and a 136" diagonal 2.37:1 Carada screen in the summer of 2007 ( biz was very good at the time and I was ambitious as to when I could complete the build - :) )

The room had a few challenges like waterlines in the way, gas lines, rerouting HVAC main lines, beams etc

In the end I moved everything myself and created a 2'W X 14"H soffit around the perimeter of the theater

For soundproofing ... games room will have whisper clips and hat channel on ceiling, double 5/8 drywall on ceiling and all walls ... 8" duct muffler for air supply ( will take pictures and post later ) ... basically a 8" duct lined with Linacoustic insulation

Theater will have whisper clips and hat channel on ceiling/soffits, double 5/8 drywall on back, left, front and ceiling with green glue, right wall siding on stairwell will have staggered studs and 1 X 1/2 + 2 X 5/8 drywall and green glue along with a 9' long duct muffler

Solid core doors for all rooms in basement except the gym

Theater pics




 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Bryan ... I bought the screen already so I have to figure a way around that ... I already got some OC703 for the front corners to do a superchunk style corner bass trap ( I have 18" in the corners for bass traps ) and I have Linacoustic for the screen wall and the first reflection points ... hope it works
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The door to the bathroom and resulting hallway for access is a limiting factor in how far back I can put the seats so that was my thinking in not getting a AT screen in the first place

How much trouble will I run into by having only 18" on either side of the screen for the main speakers ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Some updated pics

Top of stairwell



Hallway looking towards Gym straight ahead and doorway to theater to the right



looking inside the Gym



 

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Discussion Starter #8
Left wall in Games Room



screen wall in games room



Right wall in games room



Recessed area above screen wall in games room which will hide the mechanism for the retractable screen ( before I finished drywalling it - will take a updated pic after I finish taping it ) ... there is a switched plug on the face of it on the left for possible rope lighting around the perimeter of the room and a fixed plug on the right for power for the retractable screen



 

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Discussion Starter #9
Games room taping has started

left wall - first doorway is the area under the stairs that I will use for a equiptment room ... wired for 2 X 20amp and 1 X 15 amp plugs ... farthest doorway is to a future marine fishtank room



back left corner



Screen wall



right wall

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here is a rough sketchup of what the theater will look like with a quad Shiva 28 cu ft sub built into the base of the riser ( thanks Mike P ) ... total size of riser is 81 cu ft and plan to insulate the cavity around the subs



I want to build a coffered ceiling as well ... in between the squares I want to put OC703 for bass trapping and a LED puck light in the center ... here is a sketchup drawing of what I have in mind

 

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Plan on some 2" thick panels directly to the sides of the main speakers to minimize the impact of being so close to the side wall.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Plan on some 2" thick panels directly to the sides of the main speakers to minimize the impact of being so close to the side wall.

Bryan

At the first reflection point or closer to the speaker itself ?

btw ... you a airplane movie fan too huh :) ... one of the funniest movies ever :)
 

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Both actually. The one beside the speaker will help with the boundary interaction in the midbass through lower midrange. The others are for reflection control to the seating.

I love the coffered ceiling. It's a great way to break up a large flat surface while still looking classy. I wouldn't do 703 on all of it necessarily. It'll end up being too dead. You can use some at the reflection points and just hardboard in the others.

Airplane is one of my favorites, 'low humor' or not.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter #14
hmm ... I only planned to use the 1" all along the outside walls as I have minimum space to the right of the riser to get to the front row ... if I have 2" up to the edge of the first reflections and then 1" to the back it may look funny right ?


This is my room from that proggy to determine first reflections ... so you suggest just the coloured areas in OC703 then or 2 layers of Linacoustic ?

 

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Side wall reflections can be 1". On the rear wall, you'll also want something thicker to assist with bass nulls off the rear wall.

Also, with the center channel above the screen, you'll have a boundary issue there also. I'd recommend 2" on those points.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I plan to have the center channel angled down to the listening area ... but building it into the soffit was my only option due to the sub(s) planned for the front ... how much of a problem will it be to have the center channel enclosed in inside a cavity and how will that affect the speakers performance ?

I thought of lining the cavity with insulation if that could help
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Bryan ... thanks for the help so far ... One other quick question while I have you online ... where I dont need Linacoustic or OC703 would you leave that empty and cover with GOM or I have heard some people use cotton or poly to fill it and even out the wall ?
 

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I personally don't like the fill behind the top parts. It is high frequency only absorbant and I find it makes the room too dead sounding. My personal preference is to go floor to about 5' high after the first 5' of the wall most of the time. If you want a little tweak, you can use a facing on the bottom couple feet to give a bit of extra lower mid control in an area where you're not having reflections and anything that does skip off it likely is going to the carpet anyway.

Bryan
 

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If you're planning on using a CIH set up, and providing that you're not using tall floor-standers for the L&R speakers, you could put them under the screen, enabling you to move the speakers in from the corners and placing your full size bass traps in the front corners..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have Axiom M80 tower speakers for L& R so I am stuck with trying to make it work ... problem is that when I bought most of the equiptment I was still researching ... decide to go one way and then change directions but it becomes too late to change some stuff

example is the projector ... I got the Optoma HD80 but had I waited I would have got the RS20 :)

Did not really have a choice with a AT screen as I am at 10' to screen for the front row right now
 
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