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Steve's KP57WS510 Project

33586 Views 80 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  SWA
Hi Guys,

I just picked one of these units up. I wasn't really in the market as I'm pretty busy right now but it was just too tempting - literally the conversation went like "we're moving tomorrow and we're NOT moving a big, heavy, broken TV - come and get it"!

I picked it up but had to store it in my folks's garage as I was already working on a 51" set of the same model for a friend (these things are kinda like cars, there's just so much parking space available! ;->).

I have the 51" fixed and it's off to it's new home so this one will be finding it's way over here shortly so I thought I'd start a thread on the project.

The owners said they had it looked at and it was a convergence issue but they couldn't afford the fix and they did describe what a convergence problem looks like. I haven't fired it up yet so I'm not 100% sure it's a convergence issue -> I learned a long time ago that when you service stuff confirm what it's doing for yourself before you start!

I'm just gathering information for the project right now and am just assuming it's a convergence issue.

I found a service manual at this link (scroll down to find it):

It doesn't have the schematics with it though, if anyone has a link to the schematics please post it for me.

Doing a little research on this series it seems the following are the common failure items in the the convergence circuit:

(2) STK392-560 Convergence ICs

I noticed that Acme does have the STK392-560s. They also have the following:

STK392-570 Imitation
High quality Chinese imitation
We guarantee these to be as
good as the original Sanyo ICs

Also replaces STK392-560
90-day Warranty
Mitsubishi # 267P150010

I've read a few posts at various places on the net that recommend the 570s over the 560s as the 560s are 5 amp rated and the 570s are 8 amp rated and are compatible for use in 560 circuits (and I note that Acme even says "Also replaces STK392-560"). I noticed that Leonard doesn't have that sub noted in the convergence repair sticky though, so I gotta ask . . . What's the move here, real Sanyo 560s or imitation 570s that Acme is putting their reputation behind and claiming are as good as the Sanyos? Have the 570s proven to be a viable sub for the 560s?

(2) 5 amp, 90V IC link fuses


These are on the "G" board that stands vertically to the left of the "D" board that has the convergence ICs.
These are "IC Link" type fuses from the factory but pico fuses can be used.
From what I gather at least one of these almost always goes out.

(6) 3.15 amp, 90V IC link fuses


These are all located on the "D" board.
These are "IC Link" type fuses from the factory but pico fuses can be used.
I've noticed some use 3.5 amp in leu of the 3.15 as they are easier to find but Acme has the 3.15 amp ones so I'll stick with what was stock.
From what I gather these don't go out as often as the 5 amp ones on the "G" board but they go out often enough that they MUST be checked.

(30?) 4.7 ohm, 1/2watt, metal film, 1% resistors.


It seems from what I've read that burnt resistors are not as much of a problem on these sets, the bigger problem is blown IC link fuses. Do I take it that those fuses usually blow fast enough that they usually save the resistors?

I can't find specifics on which resistors commonly fail, all I've found is some posts where people have made the STK & fuse repairs and are still having problems - they are usually directed to "check the resistors near the STKs". A couple posts I found though did mention 4.7 ohm, 1/2 watt resistors as the ones to check (but didn't list their parts designations or quantity). What I've listed above are the 4.7 ohm 1/2 watt resistors I found in the service manual under the "D" board parts listing. Again, schematics would be nice if anyone has any.

The 4.7 ohm 1% resistors are kind of hard to find too - they spec 1% tolerance and I'm assuming there's a reason for that so I'd like to adhere to it, finding 1% tolerance in this ohmage and wattage is not easy though! I imagine one could go up in wattage, though I don't like to. I suppose if one couldn't find any 1% tolerance they could buy some 5% and just use an accurate meter and select the ones that were within 5% tolerance (i.e. between 4.65 and 4.75 ohms).

Does anyone have any input on the resistors? There are some lower value, fairly high wattage resistors on the "D" board listed in the manual - do they need ohm'd out too?

The only other thing I see that's a bit different than the other convergence repairs I've done is that the flyback transformer that supplies high voltage to the hv block is on the back of the board that has the convergence ICs. I just recently unhooked some HV cables doing a repair on a Sony so I'm confident I can unhook the hv cable without damaging it, but I'm also taking note that Leonard and other techs on other forums have posted they don't mess with unhooking and potentially damaging the hv lead, they just uhook everything else and then carefully flip the board over and work on it in the set so I'm going to follow their lead and attempt to do the repair in set (I'm picking up that there's enough of a risk of damaging the hv cable that it's best to not mess with it unless you have to - even for an experienced professional). If it proves to be too uncomfortable for me then I'll unhook the hv cable and remove the board so I can work on it more comfortably (I really like working at my nice comfy work bench rather than squatting on the floor!), but the plan is to try to put up with a little discomfort and save me a potentially self-inflicted problem.

As I work on the set I'll try to take pics and do some follow up posts.

Take Care,

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it was $21.98 w/ shipping for the SDK's, but hopefully they dont fail.. so far so good 9hrs....

But I did clean the 3 lens with a microfiber clother 50/50 distilled water / alchohol. So it is still runnin good. thanks man for the thread. i'll keep u updated on the JVC 48"... I think she is getting jealous sitting in the corner of the room turned off. ... dark..
Wow! $11 apiece, shipped? Yeah, I'd be worried too - I think I paid $34.99 apiece for mine, they were some of the last real Sanyos Acme had.

Acme does sell a Chinese version of the 570 and they are picky about what they offer, so evidently someone in China knows how to make a decent version of these chips so maybe you lucked out and got some from the same place.

I was little worried about using liquid on the lens packs as I read horror stories where people got the liquid down into the lens pack and then it'd fog up and they had to disassemble the lens pack to dry 'em out. Hmmm, I never did figure out how the lens pack came apart and I got nothing to lose now . . . I think I'll pull one tomorrow and see what I can figure out / what else I can break! ;->

I dug up the WS500 Tweaks sheet - I'll try to attach it to this note if I can. I think I got it done, it's a Word file and they only allow 20K Word files and it was a little over 200K but I put it into a zip file as they allow 9 meg zip files. Just download the zip to your drive and then right click on it - zip support is built into Windblows so you shouldn't have any problems extracting it. If you do pm me.

Oh, your JVC. I couldn't find a service manual for it but from what I gathered on a couple forums it should be really similar to the repair I did on my 56" version so just follow along with it. I think even all the parts are the same though I can't confirm the part numbers without a service manual. (I think my series just had one more resistor than yours)




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i'm glad i didn't get jolted... . Now a friend is interested in the JVC 48" when I get it up and runnin.. Very odd situation, the JVC worked after it was reparied for 4 months, then the blue went out on it, and it goes in and out, so some days it works, and mostly it doesnt.
That's not odd, it's pretty much par for the course for the Chinese copies. From what I gather they usually wont work from the get go, but if they do they don't make six months.

Seriously, order STKs from Acme or if going for the Hitachi chip then Encompass or someone on the recommended sellers list Leonard has put up. You wont be sorry.

That JVC will be a breeze to work on compared to the Sony! 8->


A "professional" did this??? I think not!

The lady I sold my D board to said she'd just had her convergence fixed a few months ago and then it lost the picture completely. The picture was dead and the stand-by light blinked 8 times. The tv shop told her it was definitely a D board problem but it wasn't economically feasible to troubleshoot the board and suggested she look for one on eBay, etc.. That's when she found my board. 8 blinks does indicate a problem in the hv circuit and the flyback is on the D board, but I didn't understand why they wouldn't just put a new flyback in. These were the same symtoms I had on friends unit too and it was the hv block not the flyback, so I suggested she have the shop test the hv block before she spent the money on my board. The shop said they'd tried a known good D board and it worked fine so it was definitely a D board problem. Hmmm, how many shops keep test boards for these old sets? Seemed strange, but you never know. My board arrived and then installed it and it still didn't work so they took the set to the shop. They charged her another $90 and told her they had to repair the power supply.

She's a good consumer and asked for her faulty parts and they gave her the old board. She asked if I wanted it and I said yes, why not. I figured I could scrap those hard to find 1% 4.7 ohm resistors off of it at the least so I sent her a check for the shipping and it arrived today.

I pulled the board out of the box and immediately noticed they'd CUT the hv leads off the flyback and then wrapped them back together and thrown a couple wraps of black tape around them! :gulp:

I peeled the tape off the hv lead that goes to the hv block and they didn't even solder it back together! didn't even wrap it worth a , just hooked them!

Here's a couple pics for your entertainment:


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Hi Steve,

I have been reading this thread and others over and over because I am doing the same repair on the same unit. I have hit a slight bump in the road and lifted the #3 solder pad on IC 8001(It might be 8002...Ill have to double check) and in doing so there was a very skinny trace line that was also lifted and now Im not sure if it needs to go to #3 pad or somewhere else. Its just dead ending and I really dont want to continue until i can find out where it goes. I tried following it backwards and it goes over towards Cn 5004 connector but it doesnt go to any component. Could it just be a ground for the IC pad that all the pins are located on? I have the schematics but they dont clearly illustrate where this trace goes. I can send you a picture as well. Ive been reading these forums for days now and havent been able to find anything that shows the underside of the board. So I have created an account in hopes that you may still be around and might be of assistance.

Id appreciate any efforts to help.


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Hi T,

I am still around, I've just been really busy with a ridiculous amount of overtime here lately so no new big screen projects.

Yes, please take a picture of the affected area.

I'm not sure if I still have that scrap board or not, I'll look in a few hours when I'm home. I may also have some pics of the traces around the convergence ics as I do try to remember to do that before I work on the board just in case I booger a trace up. I did a major hard drive clean a while back, but I think I kept my tv repair pics.

Also, I think the service manual actually shows a trace illustration for the boards.

Take a pic and upload it and when I get home I'll see if I can dig up the scrap board and/or some pics from my previous repairs.

Welcome to Home Theater Shack!

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Wow. I guess you are. I thought I was all alone out here. :) Ill see what I can do about uploading a pic. You will notice that the solder pad #3 has been lifted and its all scratched because I tried several times to resolder the pad because it was giving me a hard time and it oxidized like crazy and my attempt to clean the oxidation ended up in just scraping the entire pad off altogether along with part of the trace that i am trying to deal with. This is the ONLY pad that gave me any problems. I have read that the #3 pin is the external mute and its pad is notoriously weak and also that its not used and theres nothing to worry about. Schematics dont show any traces going from it, all it does is have a resistor below it - R8049. So, I hope that info is correct.

Reason I had to desolder was that my convergence didnt work after i replaced the IC's. STK392-560. I checked all the resistors and fuses in circuit but i think i should have taken the fuses out one by one and tested them. So after my first failed attempt i removed the IC's and thats when the abortion happened. I was however successful in taking out and checking all fuses and resistors. Two (2) fuses were blown. PS5001 and a 3.15A on D board. All resistors were good. I actually removed every one of them and tested them. They all ohmed out at 4.7. So all good there. I replaced the bad fuses and soldered the resistors back in and put both boards back in (With IC's removed) and fired it up for about an hour and then checked all the resistors and fuses again and nothing was blown. I did however forget to check all the voltages to the pins, etc. Ill have to do that this weekend.But, Im afraid I now have 1 and maybe 2 fried IC's. Now because of the fact that I have this lifted trace I dont want to solder it all up and possibly do even more damage than before.

And thanks for the reply as I really hope I can get this set up and running. I found it on CL for FREE!!! :)....It had the 3D effect and convergence through the OSD would not allow me to move either green, blue or red. I havent touched the service menu. Maybe with your help and all the valuable knowledge I have found so far on this site I can get her goin! These Sony sets were and still are great HDTV's. But if I have to scrap it I guess Ill at least have learned a few things and who knows maybe another will come along down the road.

Ill see about getting that pic up. Thanks again.
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> Wow. I guess you are. I thought I was all alone out here. :)

LOL, I'm not always - you just caught me at work on break and today was just an 8 hour shift for once.

I've never had a problem lifting a trace on a Sony, a later Phillips was a real challenge though! From what I gather they used some lead free solder on it. What I do - use my soldering iron to put just a touch of solder on each pad - it just tins the leg/pad with fresh solder and bit of flux. Then use a Radio Shack 40 watt iron with a de-soldering bulb built on it to de-solder the connections. This thing is 40 watts which is a lot for these boards so don't doddle! Tin the end of the de-soldering iron, shake the excess off, then stick it down over the leg sticking though the hole and I like to wiggle a bit and then release the bulb and usually it cleans them right up.

Taking a digital pic of the solder pads before you start is also a good idea in case stuff like this happens. I didn't do that originally, but I have been on the most recent ones I've worked on.

You are correct, according to the RA-6A manual I have pin #3 on the STK chips is NOT connected to anything.

So, that leads us to ask where in the H does that trace go? It's really hard to tell as that white silk screen on the board hides it and the manual also obscures it with some solder mask graphic. GRRR! , wait a minute! My board is a scrap board, a boogered up STK trace is the least of it's worries! LOL! OK, I scraped the white silk screen off and it runs over to the left, almost to R8002 and seems to just stop. I dunno if I peeled part of it up or what, but it seems to stop. Putting a meter on a bare spot of it it tests out as going to GND on CN8005.

I think that trace is far enough away from pad #3 that you are fine.

Lifting a leg on the resistors and pico fuses is the correct way to test them - you're saving so much fixing it yourself that there really is no reason to be lazy.

It seems the G board usually does have a pico fuse or two out and that kills power to the STKs, so your two blown fuses surely were the reason it didn't fire up. I don't think you hurt anything, the chips just weren't fully fired up so you have a good chance of recovering it yet . . . hmmm, reading your post I see you did fire it back up, were the STK chip installed at this point? If so, did you get GOOD chips from Acme, etc. or did you get fleaBay, etc. bargain chips?

I understand wanting to get it running! First, it's nice to have a BIG TV! And second, it's just fun to be able to actually FIX something in this day and age! It seems everything is throw away so it's refreshing to actually be able to fix something ever now and then!

Now . . . don't get too hung up on this, it'll drive ya nuts! These sets are EASY to find on CraigsList - for little or no money, in fact I don't pay for them any more! They are big, they are heavy, they are a pain to move. And if you can't fix it most landfills charge ya a couple bucks to take them so I figure I'm putting enough into it just picking them up -> I'm doing the owner a favor taking it off his hands! If they are asking money for the thing let it sit for a week or so, if it's still advertised then drop them a note and offer to take it off their hands for them - most of the time they will be glad someone responded and they don't have to haul the heavy booger and pay for someone to take it off their hands so they'll be more than willing to give it to ya! If not, move on - in short order there WILL be one available, I promise!

I like the guys who know they can be fixed but are too lazy to do it themselves! They always give you links (some to my threads!) and tell you how cheap it is to fix, and then try to sell it to you. All I do is ask them how come they aren't fixing it themselves then? If they say they don't have time point out it takes time and MONEY to haul it to the landfill . . . then offer again to relieve them of their problem!

Some of these go easy, some go hard. Most go easy, so if you get a hard one then cut bait and find an easy one! You can usually sell the remote, HV Block, and G board on fleaBay for enough to pay for your gas and landfill disposal fee.

The Sonys make good pics, but I've got a 56" JVC that makes a just slightly less pic and it was bloody EASY to fix! And the JVC will let you zoom to get rid of bars on any input, with the Sonys you can't zoom on an high def input (though most of the time your sat box, dvd player, etc. will zoom for ya so it's not a huge issue, but it is nicer to have that ability).

Hope that helps! Let us know how it turns out!!!

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Just take a fine wire and solder it to the remaining trace, leaving enough to make a loop around the pin. then solder the loop to the pin and pull a little extra solder along the wire to leave a solid repair. Make sure that you do not bridge to other connections or traces and you will be fine.

Keep your work clean to get good results, and use a little liquid flux.
That trace doesn't hook to pin 3. Nothing hooks to pin 3 - the schematic shows no connection and my investigation of my scrap D board bares that out, that trace comes down right above pin 3 but then it runs to the left towards the resistor, it's just well hidden under the white silk screening on the board - I scraped some off on my scrap board to make sure of that. I'll see if I can get a pic tomorrow.

I think that trace is far enough up it's probably ok. The pad for pin 3 makes no difference since it's not hooked up.


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This is from the service manual showing the solder side of the pcb. Where the silk screening is on the board there are thick black lines in the pic, I've put an arrow showing the trace he's worried about - you can still see through the silk screen mask that it doesn't connect to the top of pad 3, and you can just barely see it above the silk screen as it runs towards R8002 and then stops just short (I put an arrow there too).


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Ok I see whats going on now but I still dont know what to do with the trace. Any ideas where i could solder it to or should I just take a chance and let it be like you were saying.


Hi T,

If that trace is no longer long enough to reach the silk screen then yeah, it needs repaired.

I think it's a gnd from the connector, not to the connector and it's providing gnd to something so it needs hooked up.

It looks like it just dead ends when it hits the silk screen, but it doesn't -> it goes left towards the resistor and then appears to dead end right by the resistor but I think it's probably a small through hole to another layer of the circuit board. It's really hard to tell on my scrap board as there's some flux on the board there I was pushing around with my knife, plus the pealed up silk screen, etc. and it dead ends really close to the resistor, the drawing I uploaded was blown up a bit to show detail better so it makes that gap look bigger than it actually is. I was really surprised it didn't hook to the resistor but upon looking at the solder side drawing in the service manual and the board itself it was clear it didn't hook to the resistor, it just stops really close to it. Again though, I don't think it just "stops", I think it ends in a through hole to another layer of the pcb.

I would carefully scrape right along the very top edge of the white silk screening going towards the resistor and bare some of that trace and just use some thin wire to solder a jumper in (Radio Shack carries some "wire wrapping" wire I think would work well here). This may be fun as there isn't much to solder to, but you got the set for free so what do you have to lose by trying? 8-> If it does end in a through hole you may be able to solder at that point too, but it's so close to the resistor that may be difficult too. The silk screen scraped off relatively easily on my board and left a nice shiny copper trace surface so I would try that first.

Good luck! Let us know how it turns out.

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Excellent advice Steve. I will give it a go and see what happens. You are a genius my friend. Wish me luck!


You can tell from the schematic whether it connects to something or not. Even if it does not, unless the schematic says NC, there could conceivably be some reason for it, though small likelihood.
Thanks Leonard. I have read over your entire convergence repair thread and it has helped me out tremendously. I just over heated a pad and tried to scrape the oxidation off and in doing so i scraped the nearby trace off too. But I appreciate the input. Im not sure what it connects to by looking at teh drawing.

But I did take a look at the edge of the white silkscreen Steve has mentioned and I can see just a VERY small (less than a mm) speck of copper sticking out, right about where the trace should continue according to the schematic .

I feel confident that it would be a safe bet to scrape off the silkscreen at that point and attach a jumper to it. Thats gonna fun with .032 ( I think its 21 gauge) solder. I might try to find some smaller stuff tomorrow.

I've found multiple locations of GND traces that "dead end" on this "D" board. Hmmm. Which makes me wonder. If it indeed "dead ends" and doesnt go to a through hole to another layer then what possible purpose could it serve for the IC? Doesnt add up. The #1 IC pin notes a -2 (isolated) ground and a regular ground on the drawing. I just dont see this trace being designated as a ground supply for the IC but oh well Ill connect it up and see how it goes.


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Well It was a success and the solder went fine. Im getting +22v on pin #6 at "G" board Connector CN5004. Pin #4 is getting, i guess, 1v. Replaced both PS5001 and PS5002 with 5A fuses So i know they were good before the install. +/- 15 volts are fine. I didnt check the 135v. (Is that AC or DC) Im assuming its AC but wanted to make sure. But Im also assuming for the IC to get power then Id have to have 135v at CN5004 on "G" board.

IC8002 is heating up but not IC8001.


Thanks for all the help guys. Now on to troubleshooting. :rolleyesno:

edit: Ok 135v DC at CN5004.
So Iv'e been troubleshooting the "G" board recently.

CN5004 - connector plugged in.


pin 1 - -15v - ok
pin 3 - +15v - ok
pin 4 - -22v - Only getting 1v
pin 6 - +22v - ok
pin 9 - 135v - ok

So as you can see I am not getting -22v.

Would you think that IF the IC was bad it would cause no -22v?

And if there is not -22v present then will the IC still heat up?

If I remove both of the IC's and still dont get -22v, would you have any idea what might be the cause?
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