Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone recommed some subs that wont break the bank for my setup.

Looking to finally finish my theather room which I am building in the "bonus room" of my house. The room is roughly 17.5 x 21 with the sloped ceiling on the sides.

Well I am going to make the rear riser for seats evelated 15" and wanted to put the subs in it. Looking for 2 12's to fit an approx 53 ft3 enclosure. Been looking at the Parts Express page lately and the other issue is that I dont want to spend a fortune on amps either.

Talk about champange tast on a beer budget..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Haven't really figured out a budget yet. Im thinking $3-500. Since I already have a MTX SW1212, thinking about maybe a 15" in the riser for the 50hz down. Been playing around with WinISD and trying to figure out all the figures.

Also, I dont want to overpower the Klipsch speakers that I have for the rest.

I just know nothing about these DIY speakers, good...bad...or otherwise
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
Dayton Titanic with a Bash 500W plate amp running the show. I think that would be a show stopper for the price. The sub has an efficiency of 91.7db so it will do well off the limited power. Would it do better off more power? You bet; but we're on a budget here so we can upgrade later if we want.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-420
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-752

Even after tax and shipping that's still under $500 I think. That would be tough to beat in my opinion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So what does the tuning frequency really mean. I played around with WinISD w the Dayton RSS390HF-4 15" and with an 18ft3 enclosure tuned to like 12hz was what it recommended with an ESP enclosure. What do I do with the rest of the space. Should I just make the box in the front and leave the back open with braces inside for support?

I was thinking about the Bash 300 rather than the 500 since it will be right near the seats. Besides louder what would be the advantage difference with this or another setup.

And really how many db does one need to get out of the subs. I am not 16 anymore. Had 2 Punch Pro 15" and 1000w amp as I was younger and it wasn't enough. I have a 300w 10" JLAudio Sub in my truck now and it is plenty for me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,054 Posts
And really how many db does one need to get out of the subs. I am not 16 anymore. Had 2 Punch Pro 15" and 1000w amp as I was younger and it wasn't enough. I have a 300w 10" JLAudio Sub in my truck now and it is plenty for me.
Room size plays a big part in how low and how much power you will need. The lower the frequency the more power is required in a large space. Your truck is probably only hitting down into the 30Hz range at best and thats in a small space.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
should I leave the back of the riser open. I am afraid that if I close it up it will sound like a big drum.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,054 Posts
should I leave the back of the riser open. I am afraid that if I close it up it will sound like a big drum.
You will need to fill it with insulation to deaden the open space. Like Mike said you will need to build some sort of enclosure inside the riser for the sub.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
It would be essentually 2 boxes. 1 to house the speaker, and 1 wasted space. Why couldn't the wasted space be left open at the rear? Would there then be no need for insulation? Could make a door out of speaker cloth and use the big area for storage of blankets and stuff.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,054 Posts
As long as the port of the sub is firing out into the room not into the open space behind, the blankets would work to deaden the space.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top