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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I'm going to build an active subwoofer hidden in a small table next to the sofa, the problem is that I have no experience in speaker design.
I have already built several loudspeakers, Full Statements, Natalie P, Kairos, Rogers Ls3 / 5a so I have at least a good build experience.
Currently I tried to use the SpeakerBoxLite software using the Dayton Audio ULTIMAX UM12-22 as a driver, I was able to combine something but I want to understand if my result makes sense or not. Can anyone take a look at the attached pictures and give me an opinion? Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I am reading a lot of discussions on the web about subwoofer construction and I am beginning to realize that a reflex cabinet is really difficult to make and involves a degree of knowledge that I obviously do not possess.
Too much missing information and too many doubts ...
For a novice like me, perhaps it is better to focus on a closed case project.
 

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Hi, I'm going to build an active subwoofer hidden in a small table next to the sofa, the problem is that I have no experience in speaker design.
I have already built several loudspeakers, Full Statements, Natalie P, Kairos, Rogers Ls3 / 5a so I have at least a good build experience.
Currently I tried to use the SpeakerBoxLite software using the Dayton Audio ULTIMAX UM12-22 as a driver, I was able to combine something but I want to understand if my result makes sense or not. Can anyone take a look at the attached pictures and give me an opinion? Thank you.
Most everything looks really good. Your rear port air velocity is really high, but it is also mid 20's and below. So not as big of a deal. A couple things to look into is your first port resonance and adding a 20hz low pass filter to the design. This will show you what the output will look like once hooked up to an amplifier, which will in turn affect your port velocity and cone excursion. I am assuming you are showing this at rms power or thereabouts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have definitively abandoned the idea of the ported subwoofer, it would be an interesting adventure that could teach me a lot of things but unfortunately I don't have enough time to dedicate to this thing. I have found nice people to help me design a sealed box. I saw your youtube channel, really cool videos!
 

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The same program that designs a sealed sub will also design a ported box. It ain't that complicated...
I have definitively abandoned the idea of the ported subwoofer, it would be an interesting adventure that could teach me a lot of things but unfortunately I don't have enough time to dedicate to this thing. I have found nice people to help me design a sealed box. I saw your youtube channel, really cool videos!
I ventured on the same journey years back. Started with a compound woofer, isobaric design. Although the resulting measurements matched my design almost exactly I couldn't get over the port chuffing at super low frequencies. I modified the design to be a single ported design. Again I had the same issue....port noise was a major impediment. I was going to move to a sealed enclosure but landed upon a passive radiator design. It seem to provide the extended bass response of a ported design but without the port noise. It is basically a Sunfire True Subwoofer copy. It works great for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for sharing your experience. My doubts are related to the problems you had to solve. So this first project of mine is undoubtedly a closed case.
 
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