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Oh absolutely with out a doubtIs it $400 better?
Oh absolutely with out a doubtIs it $400 better?
That's next to impossible to quantify I'm afraid. It all depends upon your preferences, financial situation, goals, etc. If you have the money it's certainly worth considering. I've reviewed both of them, so I have first hand experience to draw from, and each is quite a bargain in their own right.Is it $400 better?
To me yes. To others, I guess that depends. If you want any bass you can feel (sub 25hz), then the PB-1000 is your only choice. If you are only after the 'boom', then I suppose the Dayton would work fine.Is it $400 better?
I don't understand why some think the Dayton Sub-1200 just "booms", if you take the time to set it up and position and properly calibrate it (this goes for any sub) it is not a bad sub by any means. I've had more expensive highly regarded subs in the past so this is not a blind observation on my part.To me yes. To others, I guess that depends. If you want any bass you can feel (sub 25hz), then the PB-1000 is your only choice. If you are only after the 'boom', then I suppose the Dayton would work fine.
Here's what I see ya get for the extra :spend::spend::spend:How does the PB-1000 compare to the Dayton SUB-1200? Don't laugh! Is the SVS PB-1000 $400 better? Thanks.
Edit: Movies only.
PB-1000 300 Watt DSP Controlled, 10" Ported Subwoofer.[/QUOTE]Specifications: • Power output: 120 watts RMS • Frequency response: 25-140 Hz
+180 watts RMS / +6 dB lower extension with a 130 dB higher crossover setting which makes it easier to match up to more speaker systems with higher crossover requirements. That's just on paper, mind yaSpecs: • Power output: 300 watts RMS continuous power (720 watts peak dynamic power). • Frequency response: 19-270 Hz +/- 3 dB
You are indeed correct; watts, taken in isolation, is almost irrelevant when attempting to determine the capability of a subwoofer. Even the class designation -- A/B, C, G, etc. -- is a significant when gauging the ability of an amp to provide the rated power. There are so many other factors that an explanation of them becomes an article unto itself.watts is only part of the equation, all things being equal watts would be watts, but you have to consider the sensitivity of the driver for one and other things that go in to makings of a subwoofer, I have read on it but I am no expert, so I cant go into the particulars. there are really good subs with just 200 watts, you just cant look at one spec like watts and make an informed decision on that alone.
I concur, and my review of the SUB-1200 corroborates that assessment.I'll get off the rant now and I am not a SUB-1200 fan boy but it is not a BOOM BOOM BOOM sub. :nono:
My room is quite small and that is the reason I bought Bose Cinemate 120 at the first place.+2
Your not going to believe it. How big is your space? You might want to hold out for a pb2000. Anyway you do it will be moving up. Congrats.
Only you can answer that question I'm afraid - the best any of us can do is give general advise and suggestions. We would need a lot more information before anyone can really assist though. Things like budget, usage (HT, music, gaming), listening habits (loud, quiet), room size (HxWxD), current speakers, physical size and/or WAF restrictions, etc.I have a polk psw505 and was wondering if I should by the pb1000.