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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Howdy fellas. I didn't take any pictures during the build process, mostly because the Tapped Horn design I followed has been well documented here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/143714-lab12-tapped-horn.html

I substituted the Lab12 driver for the TC Sounds Epic 12, as it has more of the features I was looking for, and it modeled well in hornresp.

I'm currently using a 5mh series coil to smooth out the response. The Le in hornresp was input to reflect that.

It's amazing.

Sharing is caring!

P.S. Try not to hurt yourself, a pair of these will lift the hair off your head at 18 hz.

Edit: Had to take 18 pixels off the file size so it would let me upload the picture.

Edit 2: The frequency response graph is shown at 30 volts input which puts the driver at xmax around 17 hz. Actual efficiency at 2.83 volts is around 104 db from 18hz to 60 hz.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice work! How do you plan to finish the box?
Thanks :)

I'm going to get a straight cut router bit today to clean up the edges. I'll probably chamfer the access lid slightly. A couple of coats of high build primer and a color, but I'm not sure which color yet. I usually paint subs black, but with one of these on each side of the room, it's a pretty large canvas that could have something interesting on it.

I'm gonna get out REW today and see if I can get some actual measurements.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The room is 18' 4" long, 14' 5" wide and has a 7' ceiling. It's fairly closed off, there's two doors, one that goes out to the back which I usually keep closed and another door that comes into the office area here on the side where I keep all the electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
A pair of those tapped horns in a room that size has to be impressive! :hsd: :hsd: :bigsmile: Have you measured the SPL at 20 hz with the subs"working"?
I just tried the SPL meter in rew with 20 cycles generated. I'm pretty sure it's not calibrated properly for spl..the room starts making unpleasant noises before it gets much past 110.

Edit: I need to get another radio shack meter.
 

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wow thats the kind of subs id really like to have horns.you can have room rattles below 110db so the meter may not be far off.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
wow thats the kind of subs id really like to have horns.you can have room rattles below 110db so the meter may not be far off.
Well, it wasn't so much the rattles, it was where I have my receiver mounted in the wall. As I increased it and watched the spl meter, the wall flex was pulling the receiver back and forth, which scared me a little while I had my hand on the volume knob.

I'm going to have to fix this wall up where the gear is mounted, luckily it's open on the back side where I have the office area on the other side of the media room, so it would be trivial to add more studs.

Here's a clip I recorded earlier. I wasn't pushing the volume too hard as you can see...and the microphone in my cel camera had loads of distortion trying to record this, but it might give you an idea of what to expect if you place these anywhere near a bar.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EDjpEdoV1w&feature=youtu.be
 

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I just tried the SPL meter in rew with 20 cycles generated. I'm pretty sure it's not calibrated properly for spl..the room starts making unpleasant noises before it gets much past 110.
You might be surprised... it often doesn't take much. I learned quick with my pair of tapped horns that I need to keep everything breakable off the walls. And remove the bulbs from the fixtures in the drop ceiling if the movie I'm watching promises to get frisky. My sub amp used to be on a shelf in the next room. It's not there anymore - the horns rattle that wall pretty good. I've had them knock the stone off the wall around the fireplace, too.

I've got one door in the room that seals pretty tightly (or so I thought), so I used to keep it closed for movies to keep the bass from getting too out of control upstairs. That didn't work out so well. The horns rattle it in the frame like a jackhammer.
 

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Question:

When I had my Lascalas years ago I noticed they had triangles running along the seams (I think to smooth the air flow). Looking at all the DIY horn loaded speakers I don't see this being done. Is there a reason or was it not needed?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Question:

When I had my Lascalas years ago I noticed they had triangles running along the seams (I think to smooth the air flow). Looking at all the DIY horn loaded speakers I don't see this being done. Is there a reason or was it not needed?
I may be partially wrong, but I think most of that is for cabinet reinforcement. It probably makes very little sonic difference at low frequencies.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This is very impressive indeed. I just wish there were more kits available for diy building.
I actually went into this project thinking it was going to be a lot harder than it was, but the cuts are actually pretty simple, all the internal pieces are cut on one 13" setup of the table saw.

There's a few "kits" you can get, but most of them afaik still require you to construct the cabinet.
 

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Too bad Danley doesn't offer the DTS-10 kit anymore, that'd probably fit the bill perfectly. The DTS-10 is even more beefy than these.
They just put it back on the market.

I do have a TH design in the CSS subforum that approaches the DTS-10 and is around $500 to build. That's what keeps turning that door into a jackhammer ;)
 
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