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Discussion Starter #61
Well, since right now I am largely waiting for stuff (GOM to finish off the panels, the 8100 to replace the hole left when i sold the 4311, the second sub) I decided to get a head start on sub placement via REW's excellent modeling feature.

I decided to do some modeling, to get an idea of what I am looking at, since my second sub has not arrived.

REW now has a great modeling feature that lets you define room size, woofer location, listening location, etc.

I'm trying to optimize for three possible seating locations, all in one row. Sometimes it's two people, sometimes it's one -- and when it's one person, it's in the middle of where the two people seat.

Yes there is a whole second row of guest seating, and I'm not too worried about that.

Here we have the classic "put them in the front corners" approach. Note that the subs are actually about 22" deep, and I just let the software's default handling of them as 1' cubes take over for this first run.



Ugly. Horribly ugly? No, but surely we can do better. It doesn't even have good seat to seat consistency, so correcting is tough.

The advice most people provide, as a rule of thumb, is that 1/4 and 3/4 front wall placement is often a great place to start.



And it's not too bad, as you can see, but also not too great.

A variation on that is, to use 1/4 of the front wall, and 3/4 of the back wall -- though that is an effort to get row-to-row variation minimized, which is not my goal.




So without further ado, let's take a look at what the modeling software said would work best -- both in terms of seat to seat variation for the main listening row AND in terms of not having crazy dips (nulls) that are of course much harder to correct well than a few consistent peaks:

Just like the Harman research, it's mid wall placement, front and rear.



For the front wall, this is not too difficult.

For the rear wall, right now there is seating in that location. Looks like I may need to turn the center seat into a large, rumbling end table!
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Got the GOM. Here you can see it on the 2x2' panels. That canning gear box in the background is what the GOM came packed in. Folded a lot, but I think the creases will work themselves out over time.




And then the "money shot": Can you tell which is the original GIK panel (absorber) and which is the newly constructed diffusion panel? Probably not too easily. Hint: GIK is on the left.

Seeing how closely they match, I feel like paying 2x the price of other acoustic fabric was worth it.

 

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Discussion Starter #63
Need to take some more pictures.

Picked up Rythmik subs, one used local at 50% off, one bstock for a good discount. Have to send one amp in for service.

Tried both the nuforce avp 18 and the Emotiva 8100 (two of them in fact) but both were very finiky with HDMI handshaking. Thinking a Yamaha will have to suffice, even with its limited PEQ.

Sold off the maggie surrounds and replaced with a used pair of Bronze Triad surrounds.

Hung the panels and painted most blemishes on the walls.

Whew!
 

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Need to take some more pictures.

Picked up Rythmik subs, one used local at 50% off, one bstock for a good discount. Have to send one amp in for service.

Tried both the nuforce avp 18 and the Emotiva 8100 (two of them in fact) but both were very finiky with HDMI handshaking. Thinking a Yamaha will have to suffice, even with its limited PEQ.

Sold off the maggie surrounds and replaced with a used pair of Bronze Triad surrounds.

Hung the panels and painted most blemishes on the walls.

Whew!
Are you using the same HDMI cable for all connections? I had HDMI problems on my current setup and when I switched to all Redmere cables the problem went away. :T
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Are you using the same HDMI cable for all connections? I had HDMI problems on my current setup and when I switched to all Redmere cables the problem went away. :T
Yeah that's important to check. I agree. It's often the main issue in such cases.

I now have quite a collection of cables. 15' redmere 18gbps (2.0 hdmi). 20 foot hi speed (1.4 hdmi). 20 foot regular -- actually two of them in different awgs.

The setup worked fine over the past five years with an onkyo, denon, marantz, and direct from the sources (eg, oppo blu-ray). None of them worked with the Nuforce and the Emotiva (though I could see the unit's own menu).

But they worked fine in the living room, with a six foot cable. Talked with a lot of support people and tried lots of stuff. No dice.

On to Yamaha...

I'd have kept the Denon 4311 but I really want manual PEQ. It had no trouble with any handshaking.
 

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Yeah that's important to check. I agree. It's often the main issue in such cases.

I now have quite a collection of cables. 15' redmere 18gbps (2.0 hdmi). 20 foot hi speed (1.4 hdmi). 20 foot regular -- actually two of them in different awgs.

The setup worked fine over the past five years with an onkyo, denon, marantz, and direct from the sources (eg, oppo blu-ray). None of them worked with the Nuforce and the Emotiva (though I could see the unit's own menu).

But they worked fine in the living room, with a six foot cable. Talked with a lot of support people and tried lots of stuff. No dice.

On to Yamaha...

I'd have kept the Denon 4311 but I really want manual PEQ. It had no trouble with any handshaking.
I had all good cables too ( they worked fine until we moved into our current home... no equipment changes at all), but I had sporadic HDMI hand shakes (current home). I would try to get all the HDMI cables of the same brand, and model if possible. If you have a bad Redmere cable... Monoprice has lifetime warranty on them. :T
 

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Discussion Starter #67
I had all good cables too ( they worked fine until we moved into our current home... no equipment changes at all), but I had sporadic HDMI hand shakes (current home). I would try to get all the HDMI cables of the same brand, and model if possible. If you have a bad Redmere cable... Monoprice has lifetime warranty on them. :T
Cables (all four) are fine with all the other sources and processors. Never have a single handshake issue with any of them. Just the one processor platform.

In fact, watching another movie in five minutes on the setup right now. No problems :)
 

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Discussion Starter #69
....and in the interim, time for better acoustics. Set up REW (beta 22) on the mac air, plugged in the cross spectrum mic, got the display port to HDMI dongle going, and did a sweep without EQ for all channels, smoothed to 1/6th's....

 

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Is this with bass trapping? That is quite a waterfall graph. It would be a great time to convert that riser to see if it actually makes a difference & how much of one.

Great job on the build!
 

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Discussion Starter #72 (Edited)
Yeah, considerable bass trapping, I think. Maybe not enough???

Front corners each have one 2'x4'x4" trap straddling the corner, from GIK.
The floor/wall connection at the front under the screen has two 2'x4'xsix inch thick GIK traps straddling it.

There are several five inch traps (sheets of OC covered in black burlap) on the front wall behind the screen.

There are two two six inch thick GIK traps on the rear wall.

(And the riser is full of insulation, but doesn't have any openings, so isn't really doing a lot.)

----

Guess I need more or heavy EQ!
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Updated gear list:


PROJECTOR:JVC RS500 calibrated by Chad B with custom curves for HDR, souped up with an HDFury Vertex for automation, fed by Premium Certified HDMI cables from MonoPrice.
(previously a JVC RS20, a Sony Pearl, a Sanyo LCD)

SPEAKERS:
Left, Center and Right: Triad InRoom Bronze LCR
(previously Thiel, Magnepan, Paradigm, Mackie, Usher, B&W)
Surround duties: Triad In Wall Bronze LCR (sides & back).
(Previously Thiel, Paradigm, Mackie.)
Overhead: Triad In Ceiling Sealed Silver Rounds.
Four corner placed Subs: Two Rythmik F15HP in the front corners & two Rythmik L22 in the rear corners - using Audyssey sub eq in the receiver
(previously Thiel sub, JL Audio, HSU, Triad, previous EQ provided by SVS AS EQ1, Anti-Mode 8033 Cinema EQ, miniDSP)

SCREEN:
Seymour EN4K acoustic screen (8 feet wide, not diag) 2.37:1
(previously a Stewart Ultramatte 200, a Stewart FireHawk, a Dalite)

AUDIO:
Marantz SR6010 receiver
(previously Yamaha Aventage 1010, Denon 4311, Onkyo pre-pro, Emotiva, Nuforce pre-pro, etc)
Proceed three channel amp for LCR
(previously Parasound 5 channel amp)
Acoustic Treatment: Less than 30% coverage, consisting of 50/50 absorption/diffusion panels -- ceiling not shown in diagrams (GIK and DIY)

SOURCES:
Sony UBP-X800 UHD Blu-Ray Plater, Apple TV gen 5 aka ATV4K, Sonos Connect, media server
(previously too many to list)

AUTOMATION/CONTROL:
Harmony Hub and Smart Control remote
 

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Discussion Starter #76
And some new photos/ design overviews. Note that the GOLD LCR were replaced with BRONZE LCR (cost cutting) but since I sit so close, this wasn't a big loss for the front row.
 

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