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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have not posted in awhile. Been busy working on this subwoofer for the past few months. The weather in Hawaii has been really weird, raining on the weekends, but I digress...

I always liked the Dayton RS1202 subwoofer design using the SWDC12 cabinet... A dual driver sealed box. But the price of the box was way too expensive. The box sells for about $250. The problem is that shipping to Hawaii is way too prohibitive. Shipping the box here would cost about $300, more expensive than the box itself. The penalty of living in paradise... Anyway, I recently bought a DeWalt jobsite table saw. I have been using a circular saw to cut my MDF but it gets a bit tedious, plus accurately sizing repeated cuts is difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I cut the panels down to size. I then scalloped the inside of the baffles to promote air movement. I then drilled out the holes for the driver bolts and inserted T-Nuts, using Gorilla Glue for added security....

You will notice that the driver cutout is very close to one edge of the board. That is where the panel for the amp subenclosure is going to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I sectioned off part of the box to have the amp in a separate sub-enclosure to prevent any air issues. I also decided to make the rear panel removable in the event I wanted to change the amplifier down the road. The box is designed to use the Dayton SA-1000 plate amplifier.
 

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I then cut the base using my table saw with the blade set at 45 degrees. I then made the grill rings with my router. I painted the outside of the grill ring with flat black paint. I then sprayed the ring with Scotch 77 adhesive and applied a foam filter (for air conditioners). I then cut the edges of the foam off to fit the ring.

I then screwed in eight screws for the magnets on the box to stick to...

I drilled the eight holes and attached the magnets using Gorilla Glue... I made a calculation error. The magnets should have been closer to the outer edge of the cutout to clear the driver frame. As it was, it was just outside the driver frame. Note the box is upside down because I attached the base as I primered the box with Zinnser BIN Shellac based primer...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I sprayed the box with Rustoleum Satin Dark Bronze paint. I hate painting with aerosols. You cannot get the smooth finish like with HVLP spray guns. The satin finish was uneven... looking real blotchy...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I painted the inside of the box with the Zinnser primer to seal the wood.

I was pretty disgusted with the uneven paint job so I bought some clear dull coat paint. I sanded down the paint until it was smooth and applied the dull coat.

Unfortunately, I had another issue, the dull coat had blushed on me. If you paint in humid weather, clear coats and lacquers will dry with a whitish area because of the moisture in the air, and that is what happened to me. You can see it in the corners and edges...

I dry-fitted the grills on the box and it came out okay.

I am contemplating re-painting the box with the bronze paint and re-applying the dull coat. The blushing is annoying me. I figure, since I got this far, do the job right.

I might also change the grill design. I am thinking of using a cloth instead of the foam. I want to have the grill raised beyond the wall with a 45 degree chamfer or a rounded edge instead. The foam edge looks a bit ragged because it was difficult to trim the edges. The knife kept tearing out the edges. I will update when I decide what to do.
 

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Looks great. What amp were you going to use?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am planning to use a Dayton SA-1000 subwoofer plate amplifier... I made the rear amp panel removable in the event the amp needs to be replaced. I don't want to be rebuilding boxes every time the amp dies...

I also repainted the cabinet today... I sprayed the same satin bronze color as before. After it dries a couple of days, I will be sanding it smooth and then spray the dull coat paint (Krylon Flat Acrylic Clear aerosol).

I really like Krylon paint, a lot better than Rustoleum. The Rustoleum head tends to spatter paint. The Krylon spray head sprays the paint in a finer mist pattern that comes out smoother. I wish I could remove the head from the Krylon and use it in the Rustoleum can but the two aerosols are completely different. The Rustoleum has a nozzle shaft on the top of the can when the head is removed. The Krylon has the shaft built into the head.
 

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I can see why the paint is gnawing at you; the woodworking job is fantastic, so the paint work should match. I get the feeling you'll figure it out though. It's obvious you have the ability to do this kind of work. Very nicely done... :clap:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This weekend was productive... I repainted the cabinets with Rustoleum Universal Aerosol. It's the can with the weird looking sprayhead. The paint comes out very fine and was pretty good.

I drilled the holes for the binding posts in the cabinet. I then added a couple of bags of Dacron stuffing with Scotch 77 spray adhesive.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I then mounted my removable rear panel and attached the amplifier to the panel. I made the panel removable in case I wanted to change the amp. You will notice that I placed the binding posts offset in the lower corner because I did not want its long length to cause an issue with any other amp's depth...

I then wired the speakers and installed them. The grills I made looked really bad so I am going to make a newer design later...

I moved the box to the theater location and fired it up. There was no issues. It replaced my Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 subwoofer. There is a lot more bass but it is in the very low range, about 20-25Hz... I have to play around with the equalizer the balance the sound.
 

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Looks good. Where is the placement in your room?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The sub is placed halfway along the right wall in the room. I have a 15" RSS390HO in the front left corner.
 

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Great looking sub :T You nailed it to look exactly like the Dayton Audio dual 12". You definitely improved on the design by adding a removable panel for the amp. Great idea for any future upgrading. Nice work!
 

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Very Professional. :T
 
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