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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
I had a feeling you'd ask... :)

I've had a hard time finding any place in the US that sells it... I think it's rarely purchased by individuals..

I found this:
http://www.labsafety.com/Super-W-Vibration-Isolation-Pad-Neoprene-Max-Load-45-psi-18-x-3-4-x-18_s_172447/Casters_29527755/

And that's $86 for an 18" x 18" square. Seems rather pricey. Hmmm.. $72 here, http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MASON-Neoprene-Mounting-Anti-Vibration-Pad-4C972
OK, so if they are 45PSI rated, and there is 81 of them per sheet, do you really need the whole sheet or do you cut away individuals and bond (using double sides tape) one per corner of the speaker?

70-80 seems expensive for 4.5 lbs of rubber.

I will go down to a local rubber supplier later today and ask and them for a price on their similar rated rubber mats and we shall see what they have and what they want for it. I just have to remember not to mention HT or it goes up 3x anyway. The mere mention of HT in this country seems to be as bad as the word "wedding".
 

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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
OK just got back from a local rubber supplier that was running a few specials. They have a 450mm x 450mm x 8mm rubber grid called an "anti-vibration pad" for $29.95. I could not see a rating on it, so not sure if it is the same thing as the one in the link. It is basically two grid pieces bonded so that the cross of each grid on one side lines up with the centre of the square hole of the second.

The other product that caught my eye was called a "dome mat" which is a rubber mat with small domes all over the surface. It was softer to walk on than the "anti-vibration pad" and was about $50 for a 900mm x 600mm mat wasn't too badly priced. If I was to cut this in half (600 x 450), I'd be able to use the one mat under both SUBs.

The convoluted foam is still hideously expensive though.
 

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OK, so if they are 45PSI rated, and there is 81 of them per sheet, do you really need the whole sheet or do you cut away individuals and bond (using double sides tape) one per corner of the speaker?
The last install I saw, had individual pieces under the sub in the corners... So, 4 of them resting under.... approx 200 lbs of sub?
 

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For sure. I think it is easier to divide the wall into three and go from there. Certainly much easier to lift one panel into place at a time. Will you curve your AT screen too?
No..I've decided to leave it flat for now..I get very little pin cushion and what I do get doesn't bother me..and now with the velvet borders I can't see anything! :)
 

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Dunno if anyone cares, but I read in a THX document once that they require sub-woofers to rest on Mason Super W pads.

I've seen sections sold on various sites, some information here:
http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/mounts_springs/super_w_pads.htm

I'm sure there are equivalents - but wanted to throw it out if you were trying to find somthing a little more "industrial" in terms of isolating the speakers.
Those pads look very interesting..It's a pity we can't get them here..
 

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OK just got back from a local rubber supplier that was running a few specials. They have a 450mm x 450mm x 8mm rubber grid called an "anti-vibration pad" for $29.95. I could not see a rating on it, so not sure if it is the same thing as the one in the link. It is basically two grid pieces bonded so that the cross of each grid on one side lines up with the centre of the square hole of the second.

The other product that caught my eye was called a "dome mat" which is a rubber mat with small domes all over the surface. It was softer to walk on than the "anti-vibration pad" and was about $50 for a 900mm x 600mm mat wasn't too badly priced. If I was to cut this in half (600 x 450), I'd be able to use the one mat under both SUBs.

The convoluted foam is still hideously expensive though.
That dome mat material looks interesting..Do you know if Clark's have it?
 

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I honestly wonder what the difference is between some rubber mats and so-called acoustical rubber mats.

I imagine that the acoustical rubber mats have more flex and are better at isolation -- but I can't imagine that rubber door mats or whatever - are that much worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
The last install I saw, had individual pieces under the sub in the corners... So, 4 of them resting under.... approx 200 lbs of sub?
I suppose compression under weight would not be as issue anyway. I am guessing the point is that it stops direct contact with the floor. I used pieces of foam under my subs for years. Foam compresses too, but only so much (about half the original thickness) and best of all, it kept them from wondering as it grips really well to the floor.

No..I've decided to leave it flat for now..I get very little pin cushion and what I do get doesn't bother me..and now with the velvet borders I can't see anything! :)
There is nothing wrong with flat if you are not bothered with pincushion. You have to remember, when I curved mine back in 07, I was running a very short TR of just 1.3:1, so really had no choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
That dome mat material looks interesting..Do you know if Clark's have it?
Yes they do and where I saw it.

That dome mat looks like the stuff you see in commercial kitchens or wherever people are standing all day long.
I'd be happy standing on that all day :)

Those pads look very interesting..It's a pity we can't get them here..
Like so many things...

I honestly wonder what the difference is between some rubber mats and so-called acoustical rubber mats.

I imagine that the acoustical rubber mats have more flex and are better at isolation -- but I can't imagine that rubber door mats or whatever - are that much worse.
A name? The so called "anti-vibration mats I looked at were quite hard and why the "dome" mats caught my attention.
 

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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
Here is an update on that project I said I was involved in.

Image 1: The original room with a bitmap overlay
Image 2: The new baffle wall. You will notice that the cutouts are over-sized and this is because he intends to upgrade the speakers soon. Currently he has a THX Select system from M&K and is planning on upgrading to the THX150 system. He will fill the cavities with foam for now.
 

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Hey Mark,

Couple of questions..
The above baffle wall and your wall show the joins as being sealed..Is this absolutely necessary or will a good butt joint suffice?

Also I'm planning on going down to Clark Rubber on Monday to pick up the convoluted foam..
They have two thicknesses..One they call 30-40 (the thinnest) and 40-50..sheet size for both is 2032 x 1524..
Is there any advantage in having the thicker material or doesn't it matter?
There is a big difference in price for the thicker one!
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Hey Mark,

Couple of questions..
The above baffle wall and your wall show the joins as being sealed..Is this absolutely necessary or will a good butt joint suffice?
A good butt joint will suffice.

Also I'm planning on going down to Clark Rubber on Monday to pick up the convoluted foam..
They have two thicknesses..One they call 30-40 (the thinnest) and 40-50..sheet size for both is 2032 x 1524..
Is there any advantage in having the thicker material or doesn't it matter?
There is a big difference in price for the thicker one!
The foam should be 1" or 25mm think (at the peaks of the hills) and you want the grade 28/400 (just ask to confirm that) which denotes the weight or density of the foam.

Yes, they charge like a wounded bull for this stuff.

Having said all that, the baffle wall in the photos I've posted will use car carpet because at the end of the day, it is about absorbing the HFs that bounce between the screen and the wall. The goal is to direct the sound from the LCRs (80~20K) into the room and your not concerned about bass. I think the reason people are put off by this is that the moment the word "treatments" is used, people automatically assume bass control. The type of control you get here is probably 1.5K and above, even when SUBs are mounted into the wall as is the case in the install I've documented. If he needs more than what the carpet provides, we will add foam under the carpet later. Like so many of us, he is doing this on a tight budgets, so this is a case of creating, finding and solving the issues as they arise.
 

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Having said all that, the baffle wall in the photos I've posted will use car carpet because at the end of the day, it is about absorbing the HFs that bounce between the screen and the wall. The goal is to direct the sound from the LCRs (80~20K) into the room and your not concerned about bass. I think the reason people are put off by this is that the moment the word "treatments" is used, people automatically assume bass control. The type of control you get here is probably 1.5K and above, even when SUBs are mounted into the wall as is the case in the install I've documented. If he needs more than what the carpet provides, we will add foam under the carpet later. Like so many of us, he is doing this on a tight budgets, so this is a case of creating, finding and solving the issues as they arise.
Thanks Mark..I'm going to take your advice and get the auto carpet instead..It's about half the price of the foam and I can get it locally..:T
Should it not be enough dampening, I can always add some foam later..
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Thanks Mark..I'm going to take your advice and get the auto carpet instead..It's about half the price of the foam and I can get it locally..:T
Should it not be enough dampening, I can always add some foam later..
And it is BLACK :sn:
 

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Yes it's really black!..It's called black velour car carpet..comes in 2M. wide rolls and I bought it from Bunnings..It cost $51 for 1.5M...Does that sound like the right stuff?

I'm about half way through making the mounting frames for the baffle wall and should have the whole thing completed today..
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Yes it's really black!..It's called black velour car carpet..comes in 2M. wide rolls and I bought it from Bunnings..It cost $51 for 1.5M...Does that sound like the right stuff?
Sounds like the same stuff :)

Here is an update to that other baffle wall project. In this case, he has bought the 1m wide stuff x 3 lengths. He just needs to patch around the holes and its all good.
 

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