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Discussion Starter #161
Sonnie said:
I don't rightly remember if you have acquired a universal learning remote or not. Have you and if so what kind?

The Home Theater Master MX-800 which I have, can be purchased with an optional MRF-250 Single-Zone RF Receiver. This also has IR sensors that you can run to your components. For my projector I took one of the sensors and extended the wire on it to about 25' and fished it thru my pipe to my projector. In your situation... you'll have the RF Receiver up front and the equipment in back... so you'll have to extend several of the IR sensor wires. It comes with about 8 or so sensors.

This is the only remote I'm familiar with that comes with the RF Receiver and sensors... there may be more.
No we havent looked into any type of universal remote yet. The remote that comes with the BenQ is excellent but I may need to get something universal just to eliminate the extra remotes.

I was just talking to E in email earlier and he was recommending almost the same thing but the 850 model. The way he made it sound though was that with this remote and base I wouldnt have to run any sensors or wires.

But if I do need to, let me know what type of wire so I can do it now while the walls are unfinished.
 

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You don't have to run the wires if the RF Reciever has a good line of sight to the equipment. The wires are used when your equipment is behind a door or located where the Receiver can't get the signal to the equipment for whatever reasons. Your chairs or bodies might be in the way of a good signal path. IR is line of sight. In my situation... the Receiver would sometimes trigger the projector and sometimes it wouldn't. I went ahead and ran the sensor wire and eliminated the problem. I only use the Receiver for the projector.
 

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Actually, if you had good line of sight you wouldn't need an RF Receiver... you might very well still want an IR remote. People with a good line of sight use IR remotes all the time.

I think you are misunderstanding me here... I am referring to the line of sight between the RF Receiver and the equipment... not the actual remote control and the equipment. The remote transmits to the RF receiver and the RF receiver transmits either via IR or via the sensors to the equipment.

The RF Receiver is of course Radio Frequency so you don't necessarily have to place it in front of you in order for it to receive signals from your remote control. You could place it near your equipment as long as the IR sensor on the front of the RF Receiver has a line of sight to your equipment. However, the RF Receiver is then behind your projector. If your projector has an IR sensor on the back and the RF Receiver can see it, then you are good to go. But if your projector only has an IR sensor on the front which faces the screen... the RF Receiver has no line of sight... in this case you need to use one of the wired sensors from the RF Receiver to the sensor on the projector and stick the wired sensor on top of the projector sensor.

Here's the rub... if you set the RF Receiver on top of your equipment or in the cabinet with your equipment, its IR sensor doesn't see your equipments IR sensors. Chances are you won't have enough room in the front of your equipment to place the RF Receiver to where the front of it faces the front of the equipment. If you do get it facing the equipment somehow, then its probably not going to be facing the projector where the sensors between the RF Receiver and projector see each other.

Your best bet might be simply placing the RF Receiver on top of you eqiupment or somewhere near your equipment and not worrying about line of sight. Use the wired IR sensors for everything. The only one you would need to extend would be the one to the projector.
 

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Tommy said:
Josuah that sounds great, how is the view from your second row and is the second row on a riser?
The second row is fine. It's on a riser about 13"-14" high, with the distance between the front of the second row seats and the back of the front row seats being a little under 2', I think.

The only issue is that some people in the second row really like to slouch, like putting their head where their butt should be, and then if someone is sitting up in the front row the front row head will block the rear person's sight. But they shouldn't be sitting with their head where their butt should be anyway. :p A 13" riser for the second row is already higher than most people do.
 

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Discussion Starter #166
Josuah said:
The only issue is that some people in the second row really like to slouch, like putting their head where their butt should be, and then if someone is sitting up in the front row the front row head will block the rear person's sight. But they shouldn't be sitting with their head where their butt should be anyway. :p A 13" riser for the second row is already higher than most people do.
That sounds good then. I used 2x10's for the riser base and the plywood, padding, and carpet will add a couple more inches to it. The rise is 7' in depth so there should be some excess room between the rows.
 

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Discussion Starter #167
Sonnie said:
Actually, if you had good line of sight you wouldn't need an RF Receiver... you might very well still want an IR remote. People with a good line of sight use IR remotes all the time.

I think you are misunderstanding me here... I am referring to the line of sight between the RF Receiver and the equipment... not the actual remote control and the equipment. The remote transmits to the RF receiver and the RF receiver transmits either via IR or via the sensors to the equipment.
I was making a joke brother... :laugh: You work to hard, go watch a movie or something...

Anyway there should not be anything blocking between the seating and the equipment rack and just thinking about making it easier as far as pointing the remote at the screen rather then turning around and pointing it at the rack, not that turning slightly is that big of a deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #168
Ok I rant, raved and complained to the store about the mount and the new mount should be here by this Friday.

I got the Toshiba HDA1 HD-DVD Player last night and we gave it a try. I'm sort of cross over what to say about it.

It looks fantastic, I say it improves the overall picture quality about 5-10%. If you look at a side by side demo you definetly can see the difference and the details in the HD that are just not there in a regular DVD.

I was debating over if I should wait till this whole format war plays out or not. But for as much as I'm investing in the overall HT room, for a few hundred dollars more I can improve the quality of what we watch even if its only for a year or two I think is worth it.

At this point theres not to much more I can do for the room until the electician and duct work guys get there stuff done which wont be for another week or two. So maybe I'll invest the time in tinkering with the receiver and projector and post the results up here.

I guess I can give that AVIA software a try. Asking anyone that has used it, can you tell me how much of a difference it makes?

I dont want to mess with the sound and speakers yet even though Im sure the sub iteself could keep me busy for weeks but I'm assuming it wont be worth messing with till after the sheet rock is up. At this point I'm sure it sounds different then it will after its completed.
 

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Avia does both video and sound cal. But personally I like the THX test tones that you can find on many SD DVDs that use THX. Pirates of the Caribbean for example. Are you going to use the analog outputs of the HD-A1? Sometimes it is a bit tricky to get the right LFE boost for the analog (6 ch direct) path with an AVR. You have to basically repeat the sound cal process just for the Tos player source that you had to do before for the AVR/Pre-Pro. Best to move further discussion of this to the Toshiba HD DVD player owners thread if you need help or want advice.

Good Luck!
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #170
Me and my son sat and watched Serenity in HD last night, the picture was excellent I cant wait for the room to be completly done.

I was able to get a bit off on ordering the theater seats yesterday. Someplace was having a closeout special. The prices seemed cheaper then the HT type places I researched it but cant say I extensively checked smaller places to see if anyone else might be as cheap.

Anyway I put the order in for the seats. There will be two rows, 3 seats in the first row witch will be straight and the second row will have 4 seats and be curved.

It should take an average of 4-6 weeks before there delivered. So at this point Im more hoping that the room will be done before they get here and also slightly disappointed realizing it will be that long before my room could possibly be completed.

The seats are Berkline 090 series.

 

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Discussion Starter #172
Sonnie said:
Those are some nice lookin' seats. :T
Thanks Sonnie. Not sure if I could have gotten them cheaper somewhere else or not but it basically came out to 500 per seat.

Let me ask you this, the guy was really trying to push getting the motorized reclining seats. I just couldnt picture spending that much more for something I can do manually with my recliner now. He made it sound like there would be problems controling it manually, is that true with these chairs?

Also should I pay the extra for those buttkicker things?
 

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That doesn't really sound that bad on the price. I paid like $240 each for my low end La-z-boys.

Don't know about the motorized seats. Seems to me that you'd have more problems with motorized than you would manual, but who am I to say for sure. My La-z-boys came with a lifetime warranty on the mechanism... I though Berkline did too.


Buttkicker and shakers have never impressed me enough to get them. My subs shake my butt enough without anything else. :dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter #174
I figured it might just be the salesman trying for some extra but figured I would check if something might be different about the theater seats that I might no about.

He made the manual recline on them just sound like it wouldnt work and that I would be crazy not to get the motorized seats.

But I do agree with you, I can picture it as something else that could/would break and not work.

How generally are these seats delivered? Do they come assembled as the row or will I have to assemble everything?
 

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Manual recliners are fine. I can't imagine them being ****** for the Berklines, since those are such a popular brand. I ended up buying my seats for about $500/seat at Levitz. Manual recline for the two end seats, not so for the center two.

For the second row, I would like to buy some cheapo seats. I found an online place that would be about $300/seat but the link is at home and I'm at work right now. I may never get around to actually doing that because $1000 can always be spent in ways that benefit me instead of my guests. :p

When my seats were delivered, each was single with little hooky things on the sides so I just lined them up and hooked them together.
 

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Discussion Starter #176
Thanks Josuah

Levitz huh, I dont think I'd buy anything else from them ever again. When we bought this house 5 months ago, I ordered all new furniture for the house most of which was from Levitz. All with perfect timing of them going bankrupt, it took forever to get the furniture one piece at a time and weeks on end on the phone complaining for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #177 (Edited)
Had a late house warming party yesterday, first time my relatives got to come and see the new house even though we've been here about 5 months now. Anyway they got to see a partially finished HT room. Atleast the equipment was up and running to show them what it can do. They were really impressed and I think they'll be considering HT in the near future now.

I'll post a few pic's of the room as it is now. I was having trouble turning the flash off on this camera so I'll have to wait till later to take some good screen shots of how the picture actually looks. Dont mind the one in the below photo, I had the lights on plus the flash on the camera.

 
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