Two Free 4'x8' sheets of Laminate

Welcome to the Shack Ben!

Couple of things... I have way too much on the go to build a test rig for these right now. I could get to it but it wouldn't be for awhile. I'm working on a new screen frame design, doing work with using the PS3 as a media server, gearing up to build a HTPC from the ground up as an HTS tutorial... and somewhere in there will be building an arcade machine... Then there is still work and family!

2007 did not turn out anywhere near how I thought it would, bad year all around including the death of my sister, so things have been hectic and I am WAY behind schedule.

If nobody else wants a sheet, if you want to do a dual screen, then sure, you can have both sheets. The box they are both in is pretty big, so make sure you have the room to transport them. Also keep in mind you're restricted to a 98" diagonal 16:9 screen, so if you were looking for something bigger than that I can't help you out.

Only requirement is as stated... send the trimmed pieces to mech for color testing, and do a full photo journal and write up and post the results here. I certainly don't mind if you post it elsewhere either, but let's try to post it here first, fair enough?

As far as a flip screen though, I'm not a big fan of unlimited step grays. I really don't think most people would see a difference between an N9 shade and an N8.5 shade of gray. N8, yes they will see a difference between the two, but when we start getting .5 and under our eyes have a hard time picking up the subtle differences. With that said, one sample sheet is around N9.25 and the other is around N8.5 (and a little warm, but Wilsonart said not bad). That's far enough apart that you should see some difference in performance with lights on, but I personally would go with the N9.25 and FG or Platinum if you really want the benefits of using the screen with lights on or ambient conditions. Still... free is free right?

Mainly we need this tested and I can't work it in right now. If they end up viable screen options, then we now have very simple and excellent performing one step non-painted screen options that go from N6.75, N7.75, N8, N8.5, N9.25 and one of the best white screens in DIY, Designer White.

Some people complained that the problem with laminates and what made paint better (beside the price) is that laminates basically came in White (DW) and an N8 shade range of gray (FG). If these check out, we'll have a laminate screen for any person's setting and tastes...

Well... not totally free You have to do a presentation!

Thanks for the reply! First off, I'm sorry to hear about the past year and the loss of your sister. I hope 2008 treats you better.

I was under the impression that you had various shades (IE: white and gray). If these are both grays, I'd be happy with whatever you feel would perform well in my setup. Some info from my end. This would be my first DIY screen. I was going to do a pegboard mount with poplar frame and either leave a wood finish with felt tape border or use an actual felt wrap around the border. It would be about 70-72" simply because of the room size and throw distance. Much bigger and SDE becomes noticeable. I have curtains and can control the room light, but at the same time this is our primary viewing room. So, when we have a movie night I'll draw the curtains and kill all the light. However, for general viewing and during say a party, there is ambient light in the room (Mostly just 40 watt soft white). From all I've read on DW I was pretty much set on using that, but if these are specifically designed for HT, I'd be willing to try it out. I have a minivan, so transport shouldn't be too much an issue and I could measure first or even bring my jigsaw to trim them down if needed. I have no problem sending mech the remnants for testing. I'm technically inclined, but far from a carpenter! I'm looking at doing this screen setup the same time I add in my additional cable runs because I've got to take down the current screen to run cable behind it as well as replace all my raceway with a larger diameter. I would gladly do a "end user" write up with photos and post it here for you and go as far as adding anything particular you'd like to see.

So, once again, thank you for your time and keep in touch. I have all of next week off and plan to do some work on this then. :T

I have an Infocus Play Big IN72. It was my first stab at a Home Theater room, so I went based on other user reviews and price. I have been very pleased thus far. MY biggest concern would be hotspotting, etc. I'd hate to build it only to find out that I would have been better off with the DW. But as you said and I agree with, free is free! I could just "hang" the sheet temporarily to see how it looks in various lights. I'm by no means a screen expert. I based my opinions off what my eyes see. My general review (for anything) is an "out of the box" type. In other word, when I initially did the set up for my IN72 and pull down screen, I noted that it still looked good and the image from the 72 was spectacular without any tweaking. I figured I can get a better image with a better screen material as it won't get ripples or waves like a pull down. I really appreciate the input from you.

PS: Does Wilsonart see a completely untapped market here? I mean, they could produces low cost fixed frame screens based from their laminates and have an instant market!

Ben I have to be honest with you and say I need to put a little thought into your setup.

Your screen size will be roughly 35x62 for a 71" diagonal image. Your projector puts out video optimized lumens of 625 in high mode, and 478 in low lamp mode. That works out to an insane fL at the screen of 41fL in high mode and 31fL in economy mode. This is going to hot spot on just about anything... DIY or commercial.

Most people go the opposite route and want a screen as big as they can get and don't have enough lumens to properly light it up. You don't have to worry about that! Ben my concern is hot spotting and eye fatigue.

I just got off the phone with someone and I can give you an immediate recommendation of something that won't hot spot on you. I explained the situation and setup as well as my concern and they said you won't have a hot spotting problem. Thing is it's going to cost you bit more. I want to be clear that I'm not pushing anything or doing a bait and switch on you, I just don't want you ending up with problems and unhappy. This is a unique situation and setup.

Let me know if you're interested in any alternate suggestions. No commitments or anything like that, just some other avenues to look at is all if you're interested.

Well, I always run the projector in low power mode and so far with my cheap Infocus pulldown I have seen no hot spotting and the image looks outstanding. In fact, the screen material is almost an identical match to the sample of DW I got from Home Depot. I may put a different mount up to recenter the projector because right now it keystones slightly and I can't correct it with the menu adjustment. I usually just crop the picture and that hides it at the edges. I'm open to any and all suggestions you may have. I even thought about just dismantling the current screen and cutting the material to fit a type of backerboard. The bottom line is that I'm happy with the image quality, but the material is too flimsy and has waves/ripples in it. That is what I need to do something about. I really do appreciate your time and input Bill.

I also have a quick question for you Bill, where can I pick up an inexpensive M1 to USB cable? I want to up the firmware to 3.0 (from 2.6). I wish Infocus would have been more thoughtful and used a standard USB to USB setup, but I guess they can make an extra $25 pushing a cable most people will use only once or twice!