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Discussion Starter #1
This will probably be the drop off point for most of the info for the revamped ultimate horn subwoofer.

This box has been built by quite a few gents and delivers boom like none other I have designed or listened to.

The original driver is no longer available, but there is a replacement. And it actually significantly outperforms the original driver in sensitivity and extension.

Yes there is still life for this beast.




http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38999&stc=1&d=1354073882
 

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Where is the ported subwoofer? LOL

Nice to see another horn build.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is a post-over from another forum.

What I'm trying to do is set up all the builds are in one place and I can provide support for them easily.

You gents who know someone, or are the someone who has built this beast, please post your links and comments in this thread. Makes looking after it a bit easier.


So who has or who is making this box?


mose, kadijk, Cyberfloatie, And I think there are more guys who have built this enclosure.

The guy in the cool shades is licensed to drive this tractor. And old enough to know better!
 

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Hi guys - I am glad to see this horn project being re-established. It seems like all those who have built it are in awe of its ability and effortless power. Mark is the guru - and a very helpful gentleman !

Mark - I have all the plans now and am hoping to make a start over our Christmas break. I think I will go over the top and do a pair !

Question. The braces. I gather that you did all that marvellous carpentry to make interesting holes to try to keep the weight down. If I decide that weight is not too much of an issue - can I forget about those holes ?
I sort of wonder whether the waveform flow might actually be just that tiny bit smoother with less edges to flow past - or am I just being pedantic ? Weight vs build time ?

Question/comments. You have stated in the design that the mouth can be - at the side (narrow side), on the end (for a lying down installation) or on the wide side.
I want to go with the mouth on the wide side - so that I can stand it along the rear wall and have the mouth in the bottom corner.
The area of the mouth needs to be the same - so it will not be exactly square due to being side on to box i.e. the slope of the last expansion. I can calculate that without too much hassle.
I will also have to adjust the design of the braces - to now flow thru to the side wall - but at right angles to the mouth - i.e. the same as the other cross-braces. I guess I still can do some round pole braces, but they will run at 90degrees to the ones in the standard plan

Thanks for the performance data on the Faital driver - it does indeed look like it is every bit as good, possibly better.
Being in Australia, any thoughts as to the best place to buy the drivers - from a US source, then ship on to Aus, or check out a European dealer ? I might try the Hong Kong distributor.

Question. Glues. We dont have those brands of Loctite glue on the market here - but there are dozens of construction adhesives. I use Sika polyurethane adhesive by the ton here in timber flooring. That is a semi-flexible polyurethane adhesive. We have foaming Polyurethane adhesives but they are really vigorous foaming - so too much for this work.
Should I go for a semi-flexible, or a more rigid adhesive ?

Peter
 

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Sikaflex poly works fine and PL premium is here in Australia also. Which drivers are recommended?

Faitals aren't always cheap but sometimes. 18 Sound can be found here for the same price in the USA but depends on model.
 

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Thanks
Mark has recommended this driver FAITAL PRO 12FH510
Do you know, or could you point me in the direction to find out if they are available here is Australia - thanks.

I will probably use Sika T55 as I buy it for work and love it.

I was considering using 12mm MDF but will stick with 12mm ply DD exterior grade - again I buy those for work.
Light and very strong.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Two things.

The beautiful pictures are of a enclosure done by Bill Harms.

The wholy braces saved under four pounds or just about two kilos of materials.

MDF!

Hope you are a big dude.

Solar is just fine. It is available here to.
 

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Okay... Now this has got me thinking of crazy crazy things... Like placing the horn in the basement and ducting the mouth up through a floor vent into my family room... A stealth installation inspired by mose's attic horn.

What are the mouth dimensions when the mouth is configured on the end? And would it be okay if the duct had a floor joist going across it?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
It's already been done buddy.

Actually built underneath the floor in a crawl space. The floor joist will have no effect whatsoever across the mouth.

Look up this on your favorite search engine:

The Crawler, A Floor joist horn build

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here is a bit of info regarding the driver choices and what they do on the horn:

Front Loaded Horn Subwoofer with Faital Pro 12FH520 installed Smaller.gif

So here I show the difference in the output capabilities. The Faital Pro driver is actually more efficient in the low end. Which all around is a good thing right!

All across the board there is a gain in efficiency. This to is a good thing. So yes the driver is a bit more expensive, but the output of one of the Faital's is the same as two boxes using the TRIO12.

Not a bad trade off.
 

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Very impressive numbers! Although I'm guessing the real-world limits be a bit lower given Faital's Xmax of 7.25 mm and "Xdamage" of 19.5 mm for that driver... I was playing around with the ferrite driver in the hornresp model a bit and it looked like it could take about 33.47 V (or about 140 W at nominal 8 ohm) before Xlim, unless I'm missing something. Hey that's still modelling 122 dB at 19 Hz in 1pi so this discussion is largely academic :hsd: :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
There is no publicly available model of this horn.

What was posted was for illustrative purposes only. The final design is much different.

As for the Trio12 numbers there is a bit of difference between published and real world specification

I have worked with both drivers. The Trio12 excursion numbers are much less in reality. The published specs were a little optomistic.
 

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Ahh, my bad -- I didn't realize the design had been adjusted. I was using the input values from the old thread at DIYaudio, and then plugged in the published specs for the 12FH510.

Still curious about the spl at xmax and xlim with the new drivers though, as it looked to be pushing above xlim at 300W on the graph.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The sims I posted are absolutely possible when you consider they are done in a 2Pi or reflection from only one boundary.

Throw this box in a room, with a corner anywhere remotely close in terms of the wavelength of the sound within 10 feet of the mouth and you get at least 3 db better, lower than 30hertz you will get plus 6 db.

This box is designed to give you near flat in room response incorporating room gain all the way down to 14 hertz.
 

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Mark, I've been following along with this discussion as a casual yet interested observer, seeing as I have this sub already and am super pleased with it. It seems to me you're saying I could take the Faital driver, drop it into my box, and almost double the performance over what I'm getting now with the Trio 12? If so, that's a tempting experiment I might want to try! I can't imagine two of these in room...make sure your house is built solid, people!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes the impossible is now possible.

Muhhaaahhaaaaaa

Hide your china!:hsd::devil:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I should be fair in what I said in the last post.

Yes there will be a doubling in the output given the new driver, that is a plus three db gain.

But. ( yes the but stops here )

Down this low our hearing is not that acute. You will hear the difference, but only just hear the difference, it will not be a night and day " it's twice as loud " type of situation.

Remember that the decibel scale is logarithmic. Every 3 points up or down is a (up) a doubling of power, or (down) a halving of power.

To get that difference of twice as loud you need a difference of 10db, that sounds twice as loud. It is actually 8 times more efficient or eight times louder.
 
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