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Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Very nice

However im not sure that lamp would stay on there long!

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Thanks Craig! Yeah, the lamp probably won't stay on the box long.... Hopefully with the bracing that I have and the weight of the box, there shouldn't be a whole lot of flex going on.
 

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Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Thanks Craig! Yeah, the lamp probably won't stay on the box long.... Hopefully with the bracing that I have and the weight of the box, there shouldn't be a whole lot of flex going on.
Cant wait to see how this turns out when it finished.

Looks awsum so far!

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

I am actually getting pretty excited as to how well the build is turning out. I haven't built a sub enclosure for quite some time and working with the 1" MDF is a flat joy. It cuts great, sands easily and is super strong. The only downside.... weight LOL! This thing is going to requite a fork lift!

I found a place online that sells the veneer at a really great price, alot better than parts express. This place actually sells it in 4x8 sheets vs the 2x8 sheets that parts express sells. Should be interesting. I've never veneered anything before, so this WILL BE a learning experience. There are some pretty good guides on adhering the veneer to the substrate (MDF). Pretty good site.

http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/veneer/oak-red.html
 

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Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Thanks for sharing that link for the veneer. They have a great selection at the best prices I have seen. How much was S&H for a sheet?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Thanks for sharing that link for the veneer. They have a great selection at the best prices I have seen. How much was S&H for a sheet?
Not a problem. I haven't ordered the veneer yet, but I created a cart and figured the shipping on it. For two sheets, it was 25 bucks for UPS ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Hello all!

More work done today. I got the table top done, the enclosure feet done in hardwood, and got a couple of the inside angle parts installed. I also got the amp enclosure done. I started out to get the ports flared, but time ran out. I am going to try the technique described on www.subwoofer-builder.comhttp://www.subwooferbuilder.com. We will see! I still have to cut the back and install the amp enclosure as well as cut the port holes for the back. I am using schedule 40 pvc for the port tubes. Flaring the ports will be interesting for sure. We will see how that goes. I've included some pics of the work done today.
 

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Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Looks exceptional mate. Real quality work there. Looking forward to seeing it when it is finished.

cheers

Graham
 

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Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Tim,

In what way may I ask. I have to say one of the reasons I went slot ported because it was easier. I wish I was as good as that with wood then I may be a bit more imaginative.

Keep the pics coming.

cheers

Graham
 

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Elite Shackster
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Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Very good build there, everything looks like its been made with lots of care and attention to detail. The ports shouldnt present to many problems for you given what you have achieved so far and I reckon you'll get those sorted well too.

Keep up the good work :T
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Tim,

In what way may I ask. I have to say one of the reasons I went slot ported because it was easier. I wish I was as good as that with wood then I may be a bit more imaginative.

Keep the pics coming.

cheers

Graham

Hey Graham,

The ports have to be heated and stretched and so on to get the flare that I want. The reason I am going with that type of port is because of not wanting to go slot ported. Not that I don't like it, on the contrary, I actually would rather use a slot port, but only because of not being able to carry the veneer around to the back side of the box and into the port. It just wouldn't look right. So I decided to go with round ports. The ONLY problem I think I am having with doing the heated flare type of method is just not ever doing it before. Having to set up the mold etc, etc. The other reason for using the heated method is because no one sells a flared end for schedule 40 pipe. At least I couldn't find one. The aero ports that you can get from PE will not work with schedule 40 pvc pipe. I contacted the company that makes the aero ports and they said:
"Sorry I did not address your second question. SCH 40 PVC will not work with our product. We manufacture a specific tube for our Precision Port to our tight tolerances. SCH 40's tolerances are to loose for our applications.

Thank You,
Steve

Precision Sound Products
Phone: 815-599-0662
Fax: 309-279-0359
www.psp-inc.com"

Soooooooo there lies the reason for the ports LOL! Honestly, if I can keep the heat to it, I think it will work out just fine. The biggest thing with this method is the heat, and the pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

The biggest thing that you can do when you are building a project like this is to have patience. When I was a kid and building plastic models, my dad used to tell me not to finish the model in one night. I never listened, and they turned out like, well... junk... Not really, but they never turned out as well as what they could have. Now that I am older, I get exactly what he was trying to tell me. Patience, patience, patience. This particular design has taken me about 2 years to complete. Most of which was a financial roadblock, as most will relate to, but a lot of it was taking the time to make sure that all of details were worked out ahead of time. Little things like, how high will this thing sit off the ground next to a chair, or love-seat, or in my situation, a sectional. It will be sitting pretty close to where my wife will be sitting and it needed to be a height that would be acceptable to sit a glass on (with a coaster of course LOL!). Once I figured out my asthetic parameters, I could concentrate on the acoustic design of the enclosure. I was actually inspired by one build that I saw on either this site or avsforum.com, which is where I have my build log for my tv stand that I built a couple years ago. Here is that link if you are interested.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/member.php?uid=7760956&protype=1

This build probably took me around 6 months (weekends) to build. I am going to stain the sub enclosure just like it. Should match the rest of the entertainment center very well.

The build that gave me the inspiration for this subwoofer was a 10" sub disguised as a table of some sort. I thought to myself, man what a great idea! Now granted mine isn't going to look anything like that, but the concept is kinda the same.

So, I guess the advice that I would give anyone wanting to do a project like this, is to make sure that you plan ahead, use sites like hometheatershack.com as a reference, because it has helped me out from time to time, and to draw out your design BEFORE making dust. Measure twice and cut once.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Hey all,

More progress on the build. I actually worked on it some last night, but the camera was dead so no pics last night. The enclosure construction is pretty much DONE! Just a bit of sanding, some body filler on some of the seams and the screw holes, which I am sure will happen on Saturday. I heated some of my schedule 40 pipe tonight to see how pliable it is when its heated with a heat gun, and I was surprised. It will mold just fine. I have to buy another hole saw though... ugh.... Anyway, here are the construction pics from both last night and tonight's work.
 

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Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

I have to take my hat off to you mate. That looks excpectional. The build quality in every area is second to none. Just Brilliant. I am looking forward to seeing it finished. What finish are you doing?

cheers

Graham
 

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Elite Shackster
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Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Like Graham, I'm very impressed :T, keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Re: ***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Thanks all!

There are a few mistakes but all in all, it has been pretty much flawless. I ordered my subs yesterday, and am ordering my amp, acoustic foam and all the goodies to go along with it too. I am also going to order my veneer today as well.

Thanks for the complements! I will keep everyone posted of the progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
***** UPDATED (w/pics) ****** Dual RE SE-12 End table sub build...

Well, not a whole lot of work was done today. I DID however get a couple ports made. Quite a few ports were ruined in the process LOL! The process is pretty difficult, to say the least. By far the toughest part of the build. The ports take LOTS of patience and an extra set of hands.

The process starts out like this.

I heat the pipe in about 1" sections, no more than that. Once it is to a pliable state, put it on the mold. This is where it gets tricky. You need to put quite a bit of weight on top of the pipe to get it to flare, but the key is giving it a twist while applying the downward force. By doing this, you will cause the bottom lip to fold outward, which is what you want, especially with schedule 40 pipe. If you do not perform the twist, the lip will fold in on itself, which is BAD. Once you have the lip (pipe wall) started properly, you just keep heating in about 1" sections, trying all the while not to heat the vertical portion of the pipe very much. If this happens, it will cause it to bulge outward, which is BAD! I ended up using a 1/2" radius for the mold and it worked out perfectly. Just keep applying pressure until you reach the outer diameter that you are wanting. I chose, 4 7/8". Also too, don't hold the heat gun on the lip too long or it will cause it to split. You want the plastic hot, but not too hot. Here are the pics.
 

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