5
So those inserts...
I wanted to use them to give me a very solid base for such a heavy driver. Moving away from T-nuts, I found them solid, but sensitive to installation. So some failed attempts and previous baffles gave me a chance to refine my method.
So step one was to place the screw in the insert first. This gave me a way to guide the angle as I drove it in to the material from the other side. I eyeballed it and made sure its shaft was centered with the larger hold I drilled for the insert.
I ended up NOT using a flat head screwdriver (too much slop) and used a tool that i had in my toolbox for working on automotive window assemblies. It fit perfectly and allowed me to put equal pressure on the insert as I rotate.
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Once I get it going in the direction I want, I put some wood glue on the threads and continued on.
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With the baffle finally ready, I started to build the rest of the inner enclosure. I'm not a fan on clamp & gluing as a sole method of construction boxes so I used 37 PrimeGuard Ten 2" exterior screws for the inner enclosure and TiteBond III wood glue.
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And yes, I only have two medium clamps and the small ones I showed above. I make it work though.:laugh2:
Remember what I said about the failed attempts with the inserts? That gave me some baffles that I would otherwise throw away. Given the price of this Birch, I wanted to use as much of it as possible, so the bad baffles turned into good braces. Building everything up and taking a router to the edges to get things ready for the second layer worked out nicely. I have now two 14" (external) cubes which need to dry.
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The holes in the braces are for routing the cables through so I can tie them down and not have them rattle on anything.
I wanted to use them to give me a very solid base for such a heavy driver. Moving away from T-nuts, I found them solid, but sensitive to installation. So some failed attempts and previous baffles gave me a chance to refine my method.
So step one was to place the screw in the insert first. This gave me a way to guide the angle as I drove it in to the material from the other side. I eyeballed it and made sure its shaft was centered with the larger hold I drilled for the insert.
I ended up NOT using a flat head screwdriver (too much slop) and used a tool that i had in my toolbox for working on automotive window assemblies. It fit perfectly and allowed me to put equal pressure on the insert as I rotate.
Once I get it going in the direction I want, I put some wood glue on the threads and continued on.
With the baffle finally ready, I started to build the rest of the inner enclosure. I'm not a fan on clamp & gluing as a sole method of construction boxes so I used 37 PrimeGuard Ten 2" exterior screws for the inner enclosure and TiteBond III wood glue.
And yes, I only have two medium clamps and the small ones I showed above. I make it work though.:laugh2:
Remember what I said about the failed attempts with the inserts? That gave me some baffles that I would otherwise throw away. Given the price of this Birch, I wanted to use as much of it as possible, so the bad baffles turned into good braces. Building everything up and taking a router to the edges to get things ready for the second layer worked out nicely. I have now two 14" (external) cubes which need to dry.
The holes in the braces are for routing the cables through so I can tie them down and not have them rattle on anything.
