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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a continuation of my modest build that you can read about over here.

I chose these drivers because of their compact size requirements, expected impact and relative cost. I have an odd shaped room and wanted more output to work with than not enough, so I bought two.




So here's the overview:

  • Sealed 1.13cu.ft enclosure with a single brace around the magnet
  • Inner enclosure: (2) 12.5 x 12.5, (2) 14 x 14, (2) 12.5 x 14 (all in inches)
  • Birch inner, MDF outer layers, 3/4" thick each
  • Speakon connectors

If you're in this section of the forum, you most likely know how to build these things so I'll include specific pictures I think are useful to people. Once I sketched out the design, I started cutting stuff. To get the cutout for the driver, I used my circle jig in a slightly different manner than intended. Knowing I needed 282mm (11 1/8") opening, I determined which hole setting would give me that diameter using a screw as the center point. For me, the 11 3/8" setting gave me the perfect outline. 0:)









I then cut more stuff:nerd2:


I wanted the mounting holes away from the thin parts of the baffle, but needed them in a specific angle so I can reproduce it. I measured the arc length between two mounting holes of the frame and then marked its midpoint. I then marked the midpoint on my 12.5"square baffled and lined them up. I clamped the baffle to the driver using clamps and then ran a drywall screw to give me a definite location to open up for the threaded inserts. And done!


 

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Discussion Starter #2
So those inserts...

I wanted to use them to give me a very solid base for such a heavy driver. Moving away from T-nuts, I found them solid, but sensitive to installation. So some failed attempts and previous baffles gave me a chance to refine my method.

So step one was to place the screw in the insert first. This gave me a way to guide the angle as I drove it in to the material from the other side. I eyeballed it and made sure its shaft was centered with the larger hold I drilled for the insert.

I ended up NOT using a flat head screwdriver (too much slop) and used a tool that i had in my toolbox for working on automotive window assemblies. It fit perfectly and allowed me to put equal pressure on the insert as I rotate.



Once I get it going in the direction I want, I put some wood glue on the threads and continued on.





With the baffle finally ready, I started to build the rest of the inner enclosure. I'm not a fan on clamp & gluing as a sole method of construction boxes so I used 37 PrimeGuard Ten 2" exterior screws for the inner enclosure and TiteBond III wood glue.



And yes, I only have two medium clamps and the small ones I showed above. I make it work though.:laugh2:

Remember what I said about the failed attempts with the inserts? That gave me some baffles that I would otherwise throw away. Given the price of this Birch, I wanted to use as much of it as possible, so the bad baffles turned into good braces. Building everything up and taking a router to the edges to get things ready for the second layer worked out nicely. I have now two 14" (external) cubes which need to dry.



The holes in the braces are for routing the cables through so I can tie them down and not have them rattle on anything.
 

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The FS is 15.9Hz? That looks like a competition driver - all surround and dustcap, no cone - which usually means a very high FS. Quite the little beast it seems.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I hope it meets my expectations! I'm using both of them to replace my single Klipsch RT-10D which isn't meeting my needs any longer.
 

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I hope it meets my expectations! I'm using both of them to replace my single Klipsch RT-10D which isn't meeting my needs any longer.
LOL I don't think you'll have any regrets.

What are you using for an amp?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm undecided and am open to suggestions...

My plan right now is to try a pair of Red Dragon 1k monoblocks and if I feel that I need more headroom, then return them under the 45 day trial and buy one of the Speakerpower 2.5kw amps.

I'm looking for remote turn on, quiet operation, efficiency and high sound quality.

Any other suggestions?
 

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I'm undecided and am open to suggestions...

My plan right now is to try a pair of Red Dragon 1k monoblocks and if I feel that I need more headroom, then return them under the 45 day trial and buy one of the Speakerpower 2.5kw amps.

I'm looking for remote turn on, quiet operation, efficiency and high sound quality.

Any other suggestions?
Yes check into the EMOTIVA XPA-1 1K mono blocks OR the CROWN XTi 4002 which aslo has DSP functions,PEQ and Xover...in fact I would probably go with the Crown's anyway.... way more power than you need which means you won't drive them as hard...

Wow I bet that BHS24 24 will rip the drywall screws out of your walls and ceiling......:hsd:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes check into the EMOTIVA XPA-1 1K mono blocks OR the CROWN XTi 4002 which aslo has DSP functions,PEQ and Xover...in fact I would probably go with the Crown's anyway.... way more power than you need which means you won't drive them as hard...

Wow I bet that BHS24 24 will rip the drywall screws out of your walls and ceiling......:hsd:
The Crown doesn't have remote turn-on/off. And fitting two XPA-1's in the available space will be very difficult. The Red Dragon's form factor is ideal and the fact that it doesn't have the extra DSP capability is a plus since my A/V processor can handle tuning duties. I just wish it had more power...:foottap:
 

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For the amount of power the Crown has + the respectable price point , I think I could overlook the 12v remote On...There could also be an aftermarket 12v trigger solution . I have used the Xantech AC1 in such a scenario...some high end Power Conditioners also have 12v trigger options....Panamax 5300PM is such a unit...
 

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Those monoblocks looks pricey for their spec. I use plain old Crown XLS1500s for my subs (HT18s). Plenty of sound quality (have used them for mains as well), quiet, can be turned on with your avr with the use of a smart strip (how I do it). Bridged they're 1550 watts at 4 ohm. No dsp but you can add a minidsp later if needed if you want more than your avr can provide....

PS meant to add that otherwise the SpeakerPower amp looks very nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
How is the current draw with the Crown amps? I'll be using the amps on a 15A shared circuit and want to avoid dimming lights during movie explosions.
 

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Discussion Starter #14


Working on the outer layers. The MDF is heavier than the birch, but I like the extra weight that they'll be when finished.
 

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How is the current draw with the Crown amps? I'll be using the amps on a 15A shared circuit and want to avoid dimming lights during movie explosions.
I just put in War of the Worlds for the lightning and pod emergence, a few dB below reference but just incurring clipping... but no light dimming. Running two XLS1500s for 3xHT18 sealed in slightly over 4cuft boxes plus a tactile transducer (and a 500W powered sub on the same outlet). I ran the Crowns bridged for a while when I had just two of the HT18s built but never really pushed too hard. YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just put in War of the Worlds for the lightning and pod emergence, a few dB below reference but just incurring clipping... but no light dimming. Running two XLS1500s for 3xHT18 sealed in slightly over 4cuft boxes plus a tactile transducer (and a 500W powered sub on the same outlet). I ran the Crowns bridged for a while when I had just two of the HT18s built but never really pushed too hard. YMMV.
Very interesting...on a dedicated circuit?
 

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Very interesting...on a dedicated circuit?
Dedicated to my av gear in the living room. Normal h/h 15A circuit otherwise. May not matter but the amps have a soft start, have read some amps charging up large caps simultaneously without such can cause problems at start up (all mine fires up with the avr turn-on with a smart strip).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm going to see if I can audition some of the Crown amps once I complete the sub build. Thanks for the insight!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
How do you "audition" an amp? Especially for use with a sub?
For me, I'm looking whether the amplifier has enough output to push these drivers sufficiently. I'm also looking for how it handles delivery of power over difficult passages without needing to activate cooling fans. Any turn on/off thumps in my system. How much current is drawn and if it has an negative impact on anything on the same circuit and vice versa. Practical stuff really.

Given the frequencies I'm using it for now, sound quality should be adequate. But I'd like to also be happy with its transparency if I decide to use it in a different application (e.g. powering large front mains).
 
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