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Upgrading With Two Stereo Integrity HST12's

25K views 75 replies 9 participants last post by  ndyvidual 
#1 · (Edited)
This is a continuation of my modest build that you can read about over here.

I chose these drivers because of their compact size requirements, expected impact and relative cost. I have an odd shaped room and wanted more output to work with than not enough, so I bought two.




So here's the overview:

  • Sealed 1.13cu.ft enclosure with a single brace around the magnet
  • Inner enclosure: (2) 12.5 x 12.5, (2) 14 x 14, (2) 12.5 x 14 (all in inches)
  • Birch inner, MDF outer layers, 3/4" thick each
  • Speakon connectors


If you're in this section of the forum, you most likely know how to build these things so I'll include specific pictures I think are useful to people. Once I sketched out the design, I started cutting stuff. To get the cutout for the driver, I used my circle jig in a slightly different manner than intended. Knowing I needed 282mm (11 1/8") opening, I determined which hole setting would give me that diameter using a screw as the center point. For me, the 11 3/8" setting gave me the perfect outline. 0:)









I then cut more stuff:nerd2:


I wanted the mounting holes away from the thin parts of the baffle, but needed them in a specific angle so I can reproduce it. I measured the arc length between two mounting holes of the frame and then marked its midpoint. I then marked the midpoint on my 12.5"square baffled and lined them up. I clamped the baffle to the driver using clamps and then ran a drywall screw to give me a definite location to open up for the threaded inserts. And done!


 
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#2 ·
So those inserts...

I wanted to use them to give me a very solid base for such a heavy driver. Moving away from T-nuts, I found them solid, but sensitive to installation. So some failed attempts and previous baffles gave me a chance to refine my method.

So step one was to place the screw in the insert first. This gave me a way to guide the angle as I drove it in to the material from the other side. I eyeballed it and made sure its shaft was centered with the larger hold I drilled for the insert.

I ended up NOT using a flat head screwdriver (too much slop) and used a tool that i had in my toolbox for working on automotive window assemblies. It fit perfectly and allowed me to put equal pressure on the insert as I rotate.



Once I get it going in the direction I want, I put some wood glue on the threads and continued on.





With the baffle finally ready, I started to build the rest of the inner enclosure. I'm not a fan on clamp & gluing as a sole method of construction boxes so I used 37 PrimeGuard Ten 2" exterior screws for the inner enclosure and TiteBond III wood glue.



And yes, I only have two medium clamps and the small ones I showed above. I make it work though.:laugh2:

Remember what I said about the failed attempts with the inserts? That gave me some baffles that I would otherwise throw away. Given the price of this Birch, I wanted to use as much of it as possible, so the bad baffles turned into good braces. Building everything up and taking a router to the edges to get things ready for the second layer worked out nicely. I have now two 14" (external) cubes which need to dry.



The holes in the braces are for routing the cables through so I can tie them down and not have them rattle on anything.
 
#8 ·
I'm undecided and am open to suggestions...

My plan right now is to try a pair of Red Dragon 1k monoblocks and if I feel that I need more headroom, then return them under the 45 day trial and buy one of the Speakerpower 2.5kw amps.

I'm looking for remote turn on, quiet operation, efficiency and high sound quality.

Any other suggestions?
 
#9 · (Edited)
Yes check into the EMOTIVA XPA-1 1K mono blocks OR the CROWN XTi 4002 which aslo has DSP functions,PEQ and Xover...in fact I would probably go with the Crown's anyway.... way more power than you need which means you won't drive them as hard...

Wow I bet that BHS24 24 will rip the drywall screws out of your walls and ceiling......:hsd:
 
#11 ·
For the amount of power the Crown has + the respectable price point , I think I could overlook the 12v remote On...There could also be an aftermarket 12v trigger solution . I have used the Xantech AC1 in such a scenario...some high end Power Conditioners also have 12v trigger options....Panamax 5300PM is such a unit...
 
#12 · (Edited)
Those monoblocks looks pricey for their spec. I use plain old Crown XLS1500s for my subs (HT18s). Plenty of sound quality (have used them for mains as well), quiet, can be turned on with your avr with the use of a smart strip (how I do it). Bridged they're 1550 watts at 4 ohm. No dsp but you can add a minidsp later if needed if you want more than your avr can provide....

PS meant to add that otherwise the SpeakerPower amp looks very nice!
 
#15 ·
I just put in War of the Worlds for the lightning and pod emergence, a few dB below reference but just incurring clipping... but no light dimming. Running two XLS1500s for 3xHT18 sealed in slightly over 4cuft boxes plus a tactile transducer (and a 500W powered sub on the same outlet). I ran the Crowns bridged for a while when I had just two of the HT18s built but never really pushed too hard. YMMV.
 
#24 ·
I was going to say the XLS, although capable of 2ohm, aren't as capable at that impedance as others (but the bridged mode at 4 ohm I've seen no issues with), also depends on your ULF goals to an extent (as there is a built-in roll off below 20hz on the Crowns, altho they do fine down to around 10hz per many reports). Then again a Speakerpower amp, if within budget, would be awesome. Don't know if you saw this thread but it may be of interest http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ers/142826-master-list-hardcore-ish-amps.html
 
#26 ·
You don't need the dsp for eq purposes? What will you use otherwise?

ps you know 8g for internal wiring over such a distance is totally overkill? Maybe for a significant distance from amp to sub....
 
#32 ·
Update for tonight: done with the building phase. Routing of all needed edges are complete and the holes for the connectors are drilled. I put them on the side so I have the option to move the enclosure closer to a wall.

Lessons learned: do the routing outdoors! Every inch of my garage is covered with dust. I'll be using my air compressor and my trusty shop broom in the morning:(
 
#33 ·
With the garage now clean, I can work start to prepare for the grills. I see many people didn't make grills for their 'high surround' subs, but mine will be located near foot traffic so, for me, it's a must.

I'll hold off on building it until I see how far they extend, but the provisions for the grill needs to be made now. On my current sub, two of the pop-in grommets failed and I wanted this design to improve on them. I decided to use magnets.

K&J Magnetics model number RX033CS-S

They have a 20lb pull force in my application to the should prevent vibrating the grill on the subwoofer's face and from easily movement if bumped.
 
#34 ·
So I used a 1 1/4" hole saw. Drilled in a little bit, then stopped, removed the pilot bit, then drilled in further-enough to use a flathead to pry out the center chunk. Placing the magnetic in, I wanted it to be just below the surface so that the body filler will skim its top, giving me a smooth sandable surface.

I attach the magnetics using glue and a dry wall screw. Submerged it in glue so it's just under the level of the face.












 
#41 ·
I plan to experiment with how much metal I want to place on the underside of the grill to change the force needed to hold the grill on.

My duo will be on carpet so I can make up a few solutions to keep it from moving without disturbing the paint.

At least this is my 'plan'...
 
#42 · (Edited)
Thinking ahead, I need to get my color choice determined. I'm looking at the following options:

Blue Scuro (Lamborghini)

House of Kolor Purple

Ferrari Orange

This is going in a great room (that's the room type name, not that it's an awesome room! haha). Reference post #1 for the floor/wall/curtain combination in that image's background. My floor choices for future homes will either have very light or dark wood flooring.

What do you all think? Any others I should consider?
 
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