And thanks for the compliment!
Upgrading With Two Stereo Integrity HST12's
4
This is a continuation of my modest build that you can read about over here.
I chose these drivers because of their compact size requirements, expected impact and relative cost. I have an odd shaped room and wanted more output to work with than not enough, so I bought two.
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So here's the overview:
If you're in this section of the forum, you most likely know how to build these things so I'll include specific pictures I think are useful to people. Once I sketched out the design, I started cutting stuff. To get the cutout for the driver, I used my circle jig in a slightly different manner than intended. Knowing I needed 282mm (11 1/8") opening, I determined which hole setting would give me that diameter using a screw as the center point. For me, the 11 3/8" setting gave me the perfect outline. 0
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I then cut more stuff:nerd2:
I wanted the mounting holes away from the thin parts of the baffle, but needed them in a specific angle so I can reproduce it. I measured the arc length between two mounting holes of the frame and then marked its midpoint. I then marked the midpoint on my 12.5"square baffled and lined them up. I clamped the baffle to the driver using clamps and then ran a drywall screw to give me a definite location to open up for the threaded inserts. And done!
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I chose these drivers because of their compact size requirements, expected impact and relative cost. I have an odd shaped room and wanted more output to work with than not enough, so I bought two.
So here's the overview:
- Sealed 1.13cu.ft enclosure with a single brace around the magnet
- Inner enclosure: (2) 12.5 x 12.5, (2) 14 x 14, (2) 12.5 x 14 (all in inches)
- Birch inner, MDF outer layers, 3/4" thick each
- Speakon connectors
If you're in this section of the forum, you most likely know how to build these things so I'll include specific pictures I think are useful to people. Once I sketched out the design, I started cutting stuff. To get the cutout for the driver, I used my circle jig in a slightly different manner than intended. Knowing I needed 282mm (11 1/8") opening, I determined which hole setting would give me that diameter using a screw as the center point. For me, the 11 3/8" setting gave me the perfect outline. 0
I then cut more stuff:nerd2:
I wanted the mounting holes away from the thin parts of the baffle, but needed them in a specific angle so I can reproduce it. I measured the arc length between two mounting holes of the frame and then marked its midpoint. I then marked the midpoint on my 12.5"square baffled and lined them up. I clamped the baffle to the driver using clamps and then ran a drywall screw to give me a definite location to open up for the threaded inserts. And done!
61 - 76 of 76 Posts
Good to hear you got it in place without incident. Yes, that is a massive woofer, and with it being surface mounted you will need a thick grill to clear it. I am doing my subs down firing to keep the kids from poking at them. I did make some for my mains out of MDF and some cloth from parts express.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Good call on not recess mounting the drivers. As you stated they are very heavy and you will damage not only the finish but also the shape of the mounting surface itself if you try to pry one out. I know this because I've done it before.I used 8ga KnuKonceptz blue power cable to connect the voice coils in series. I used Sound King 8ga red and black power cable to connect the driver to the Neutrik connector. To avoid any possibility of having any vibrations due to the cable hitting the inner walls, I wrapped each cable with BMW OEM fabric wire loom wrap. The filling will also surround the cables so I should have no tapping issues.
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To avoid the series cable from making any noise, I left no slack in its length and also hot glued it to two contact points on the basket. All cables are soldered on their ends to make for a solid surface to insert into the spring loaded connectors. I do wish the drivers had binding posts so i could use banana plugs.
Going through all the threads on the forum, I never saw anyone explain how they actually installed these heavy drivers in their enclosures. So here's my intended approach:
Step #1: Suspend the driver over the opening [using a 3/4" board protected with microfiber clothes], connect the cables and rotate it so that the mounting holes line up with the ones in the baffle.
Step #2: With nitride gloves on, lift the driver slightly while someone else slides the board out.
Step #3: Proceed to crush the tips of all ten digits while lowering the driver to line up.
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I deliberately did not recess the basket edge because I think it would make it VERY hard to pry the driver back out in case I need to remove it later. Here you can also see the speaker gasket installed to the underside of the driver. I didn't want anything sticking on my newly painted surface.
Enclosures look like they turned out great though! :grin2:
2
I spent a lot of time finding strong bolts that had a small head to avoid eating into the surround, but not too small where it was barely hold from frame. Also, long enough to get through both layers, but not fully threaded so it would only have threads to catch the insert. I finally chose 10-24 2" cap socket screws. They are very strong. I just used a ratchet and hex socket to tighten them down in a cross pattern.
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And with a quick wipe of a cloth made from feathers of a crying newborn angel, I cleaned the finger prints off and I'm done!
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I used an old 200w/ch amplifier to power them up and an RTA to check on placement options and found two best compromises. I had both drivers pointing up so, for now, I'll put the grill construction on hold until I actually need it based on changes to placement.
For now, I'll continue discussion regarding tuning and sound impressions in my other thread I linked in post #1. Any questions about the build, I'd be happy to answer here.
And with a quick wipe of a cloth made from feathers of a crying newborn angel, I cleaned the finger prints off and I'm done!
I used an old 200w/ch amplifier to power them up and an RTA to check on placement options and found two best compromises. I had both drivers pointing up so, for now, I'll put the grill construction on hold until I actually need it based on changes to placement.
For now, I'll continue discussion regarding tuning and sound impressions in my other thread I linked in post #1. Any questions about the build, I'd be happy to answer here.
Awesome!
Thanks for the long-term review. Do you have any pictures of the subwoofers in the enclosures?Not a problem! The single stage paint color is just great to me. :sn:
The first picture was taken when I finished them back in 2016. The second picture I took today in the location they've been in for the past year. In the far back, the SpeakerPower amplifier is in a little stand I made so that it would site vertically against the wall. Keen eyes will notice that I alternated the screw finishes.
I also noticed that DropBox's new public link change some time ago impacted ALL of my pictures in this thread. I'll have to fix that....sorry everyone.
The first picture was taken when I finished them back in 2016. The second picture I took today in the location they've been in for the past year. In the far back, the SpeakerPower amplifier is in a little stand I made so that it would site vertically against the wall. Keen eyes will notice that I alternated the screw finishes.
I also noticed that DropBox's new public link change some time ago impacted ALL of my pictures in this thread. I'll have to fix that....sorry everyone.
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Very cool looking! I really dig that paint color.
Even though I use HST-11's in a DO side-firing arrangement in my movie room - seeing your HST-12's firing upward looks crazy awesome. :R
I logged in recently and noticed that some of my pictures weren't working! I suspect it was because Dropbox changed its hosting capabilities. So I'm adding pics from the build in case others find them useful. I can't edit the original posts because it's been too long unfortunately.
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8
Not sure why my images keep breaking...I'll try this again:
Insert mounting:
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Ready for applying primer coat:
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Single Stage Paint Datasheet:
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Wire wrapping:
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Dropping drivers in:
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Tightening them down:
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Still going strong:
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The Speakerpower amp continues to be the silent monster in the corner. I've not been able to get the fans to turn on....ever. Yet it delivers a huge amount of power to the point where I can approach the HST's mechanical limits.
Insert mounting:
Ready for applying primer coat:
Single Stage Paint Datasheet:
Wire wrapping:
Dropping drivers in:
Tightening them down:
Still going strong:
The Speakerpower amp continues to be the silent monster in the corner. I've not been able to get the fans to turn on....ever. Yet it delivers a huge amount of power to the point where I can approach the HST's mechanical limits.
61 - 76 of 76 Posts
