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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As I'm painting my screen for the second time, I'm using a piece of MDF as the substrate. ATM it is on the ground as I roll the paint on. I did this as I noticed before with BW™ that there was a slight sheathing affect on the wall which I was able to notice. Now, on the ground and horizontal, that affect is reduced but I can still "kinda" see it.

So, I was wondering if anyone has had tried something like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint/paint-sprayers/wagner/paint-easy-92619.html

Or this:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100198078/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=FLOETROL&storeId=10051

Or this:

http://www.hytechsales.com/prod75.html

To increase the drying time and therefore the paint will have more time to level.

I am worried as this might change the BW properties and it won't be as neutral as before.
 

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Of the three item linked to I have only tested the 2nd one (Floetrol). If you don't add more than the manufacturer recommends there will not be a visible color change in BW™. I don't know about the other two products.
 

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Yes, the more Floetrol that is added the longer the drying time is, that is one of the reasons it smooths the surface of the paint.

Up to 16 fl. oz. per gallon can be added if needed.

To get the smoothest finish use the shortest nap roller cover you can find, but NO FOAM rollers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I tried a little experiment with the foam roller on the Killz2 Premium paint. It did come out smooth, but, there were a few air bubbles.

This is what I was looking for something to help out the screen paint with leveling. I'm kinda picky with my screen and last screen I could see the sheathing from the couch some of the time. On an active scene or something with a lot of color and movement, it's hard. But a B&W movie, or, a movie with low pans/fades with mostly solid colors I could really see it.

Thanks for the tips!
 

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I tried a little experiment with the foam roller on the Killz2 Premium paint. It did come out smooth, but, there were a few air bubbles.
The problem with the foam roller is the air bubbles that get into the BW™ when rolling; these bubbles come to the surface and then pop which tends to create a type of "blast ring" around where the bubble popped composed of aluminum flakes. The result is added reflectivity of the flakes that can be seen during viewing.

This is what I was looking for something to help out the screen paint with leveling. I'm kinda picky with my screen and last screen I could see the sheathing from the couch some of the time. On an active scene or something with a lot of color and movement, it's hard. But a B&W movie, or, a movie with low pans/fades with mostly solid colors I could really see it.

Thanks for the tips!
I'm not sure what you mean by "sheathing", is it what some have referred to as graininess in the image under the conditions you specify?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I guess you could call it grain. But, if you get close to the surface of the screen, you can see very small ripples in the paint. Every wall that I have seen has this to some degree. The wall behind my monitor has it and I can see it from where I sit.

The ripples are "better" since the MDF is laying on the ground. So, instead of the ripples being pulled down by gravity, they get pulled flat. I can already see that it is an improvement as I walk up to it. I was hoping that something like the Floetrol would allow the paint to level out even more, making it near flat as possible.
 

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I guess you could call it grain. But, if you get close to the surface of the screen, you can see very small ripples in the paint. Every wall that I have seen has this to some degree. The wall behind my monitor has it and I can see it from where I sit.

The ripples are "better" since the MDF is laying on the ground. So, instead of the ripples being pulled down by gravity, they get pulled flat. I can already see that it is an improvement as I walk up to it. I was hoping that something like the Floetrol would allow the paint to level out even more, making it near flat as possible.
OK, I think I understand now. I think what you are seeing (and describing well) is the surface texture a painted surface has when paint has been applied with a roller; the thicker the roller nap the larger the ripple pattern will be. One of the advantages of spraying a screen is that this type of "orange peel" surface usually doesn't happen, but spraying has it's own potential problems so there is no foolproof application method.

One of the best paints for rolling is Sherwin-Williams ProClassic interior latex which is designed to level well and create a smooth surface, the problem is that the flattest gloss it comes in is satin finish which I don't think would work well for mixing BW™ (it would most likely hot spot).

Floetrol could well be your answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Almost ready to rock! I came home from work all excited since the tracking number said the Aluminum Fine paint from DB came in... only to find out that it was nowhere to be found. It was shipped via FedEx/USPS and someone got some paint that they will have no idea what to do with. But, DB was cool enough to send me another one, gratis! Definitely will go FedEx all the way next time. I totally would have had the screen done by the weekend... :(
 

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Almost ready to rock! I came home from work all excited since the tracking number said the Aluminum Fine paint from DB came in... only to find out that it was nowhere to be found. It was shipped via FedEx/USPS and someone got some paint that they will have no idea what to do with. But, DB was cool enough to send me another one, gratis! Definitely will go FedEx all the way next time. I totally would have had the screen done by the weekend... :(
Sorry to hear about that... I've been burned a few times by FedEx "Smartpost" myself. I think the service deserves the name "Dumbpost", but that's just me. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So, the 2oz of Floetrol did not seem to do much for the leveling. This may be because the previous layers of Killz2 and my leftover batch of BW were already there. So, it might never level out perfectly unless Floetrol is used at all layers.

However, it made elimination of roller marks fool-proof. As soon as the sample dries I'll send it off to Mechman for testing. I did buy enough aluminum paint for two batches this time. Just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The Floetrol did not really seem to do much in regards to leveling. But, if you are one who is "roller-mark" prone then it makes the elimination of those almost fool-proof. I think the only way to get rid of the texture from the roller nap is to not use a roller and spray. I'll just have to deal. :)

I put some of the mix on paper and when it dried it will be sent to Mechman for testing. Too my eyes its seems the same as my previous mix.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm having second thought about the use of Floetrol... The paint texture seems to be more pronounced. Like, the paint was pulled up more. I have 1/2 a quart left and tomorrow I'll add an extra ounce of Floetrol to it and see if that helps.

I might have to do a repaint. :(
 

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The Floetrol should lower the surface tension of the paint so it levels better (and it sounds like it is doing that if it is easing any problems with roller marks), but if the surface being covered already has texture it would simply "hug" that texture. One can't smooth a textured surface by painting over the texture. I found that out years ago when I was painting a stand made out of plywood. I even used a sandable primer and sanded between coats, but after 4 or 5 coats I could still see the texture of the plywood in the paint (I should have applied a sandable sealant similar to spackling compound and sanded it smooth before painting).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm totally not happy with the Floetrol. I can see on my *final* coat that there is some separation of the aluminum from the beige. At first, I thought it was my look angle but it's there alright.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I maybe have jumped the gun on the color separation. But, other than that, I do not like the Floetrol for BW. It totally changed the consistency of the paint and the texture is smoother without the Floetrol than with. At least, with 2 oz per quart (I never added that last oz).

Maybe because the Behr is an enamel paint?
 

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I maybe have jumped the gun on the color separation. But, other than that, I do not like the Floetrol for BW. It totally changed the consistency of the paint and the texture is smoother without the Floetrol than with. At least, with 2 oz per quart (I never added that last oz).
Meant to reply sooner, but have been busy the last few days. :hide: My experimentation with Floetrol has primarily been on testing potential color change. I find it strange that you are finding that paint with Floetrol has a rougher surface than without it, but I don't doubt you. It is a conundrum. :scratch:

Maybe because the Behr is an enamel paint?
While I don't know for sure I wouldn't doubt it. I don't believe it's the enamel finish but other ingredients in Behr paint that may be reacting to the Floetrol. You might call or email Floetrol about it to see what they have to say.

Did you use the Behr Premium (#1850) or the Behr Premium ULTRA (#1750) as a base for your BW™?
 

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I tried the floetral this weekend.

I've been working on a rolled a BW (50% 50% superflat, eggshell, Lowes VUP) screen on stretched floating canvas at 126". Due to the flex of the canvas I have not been able to get rid of the roller marks (Sheen variation). I have at least 9 coats rolled counting the primer (too much texture) trying different techniques to get paint coverage without much pressure in a timely manner to not leave the marks.

The floetral helped. I used it at it's maximum amount recommended on the last try of the day and got the best results so far. .. it might have been good enough if my helper (dear mrs) didn't try talk me into being too conservative with the paint ....don't tell her i said that :x

Color variation hasn't been noticable, though to be fair, I don't see much other that than the dark and bright spots :(
 

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I tried the floetral this weekend.

I've been working on a rolled a BW (50% 50% superflat, eggshell, Lowes VUP) screen on stretched floating canvas at 126". Due to the flex of the canvas I have not been able to get rid of the roller marks (Sheen variation). I have at least 9 coats rolled counting the primer (too much texture) trying different techniques to get paint coverage without much pressure in a timely manner to not leave the marks.

The floetral helped. I used it at it's maximum amount recommended on the last try of the day and got the best results so far. .. it might have been good enough if my helper (dear mrs) didn't try talk me into being too conservative with the paint ....don't tell her i said that :x

Color variation hasn't been noticable, though to be fair, I don't see much other that than the dark and bright spots :(
I'm sure your "better half" meant well, but trying to conserve on paint is usually a bad idea; when rolling, if the paint film isn't thick enough it will tend to not level well.
 
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