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Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum. I purchased a projector a while back (InFocus X10) for very cheap. I then painted a screen based on the projectorcentral forums. It is Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White, # B20 W 51.

I've found that it creates hotspots and also has severe graininess on darker images. It looks amazing for animated movies such as Monsters, Inc., etc., but is severely lacking on darker images. I just replaced my bulb hoping to alleviate some of the issues - which did help some. I also am limited in my availability to make the room completely dark. During night hours, I can get pretty dark, but during the day it is entirely impossible. I also like to watch sports with some lighting on anyway.

I've decided that I should switch to a gray screen, but have no idea what shade or sheen. I've read so many contradictory forums regarding sheen in particular. I was ready to try the SilverFire 2.5 formula, but then read many people here saying not to.

At any rate, it appears that based on projectorcentral's calculator, I'm would get 18 fL at my viewing distance on a 103" screen with 1.0 gain. However, I don't believe that considers my ambient light issues.

If somebody could help point me in the right direction, I'd be greatly appreciative of your help.

Thanks everyone!
 

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Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum.
Welcome to HTS! :wave:

I purchased a projector a while back (InFocus X10) for very cheap. I then painted a screen based on the projectorcentral forums. It is Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White, # B20 W 51.

I've found that it creates hotspots and also has severe graininess on darker images. It looks amazing for animated movies such as Monsters, Inc., etc., but is severely lacking on darker images. I just replaced my bulb hoping to alleviate some of the issues - which did help some. I also am limited in my availability to make the room completely dark. During night hours, I can get pretty dark, but during the day it is entirely impossible. I also like to watch sports with some lighting on anyway.
That paint didn't hot spot for me when I tried it, but others have had hot spotting problems like you are having. This is a result of the gloss level of the paint since there is no reflective agent (such as mica or aluminum) in it. I would guess that any graininess is coming from the screen surface not being smooth enough. A flatter finish paint will help this.

I've decided that I should switch to a gray screen, but have no idea what shade or sheen. I've read so many contradictory forums regarding sheen in particular. I was ready to try the SilverFire 2.5 formula, but then read many people here saying not to.
Yeah, SF has NEVER performed as the designers of it say it should. I could go into why this is so, but I'll leave that for another day. ;) I'll just put it all in a nutshell and say that the SF designers really don't know how a front projection screen works and they don't understand paint chemistry or color science.

At any rate, it appears that based on projectorcentral's calculator, I'm would get 18 fL at my viewing distance on a 103" screen with 1.0 gain. However, I don't believe that considers my ambient light issues.

If somebody could help point me in the right direction, I'd be greatly appreciative of your help.

Thanks everyone!
I would recommend an N8 gray paint in flat or matte finish. If using Sherwin-Williams I would go with their Duration paint in matte finish tinted to SW 'Unique Gray'. If using Valspar Signature from Lowe's I would also use that paint in a matte finish; you could have it tinted to match SW 'Unique Gray' or Behr 'Silver Screen'. We do not recommend using a real Behr paint from Home Depot at this time if anything else is available. The N8 gray screen will darken Black levels in the projected image and increase color saturation. It will also darken white images, but when going with a gray paint there is an optical illusion that makes it seem like whites aren't darkened all that much unless too dark a gray is used. The human visual system judges image contrast by the black levels in an image, not the white level.
 

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Thanks so much for your reply! Do you find it necessary to spray the paint to achieve a smooth surface, or do you think a good foam roller and good prep work will suffice? Thanks again!
 

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