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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

Getting close to the point of choosing final covering of latest speaker build. Mains I am thinking of using a veneer of some sort. What are your experiences with different types( self stick, iron on, etc ) ? This will be my first attempt at using a product like this. I have 2 main speakers that measure 20x10x9" each and then a sub/ amp enclosure that is 54x8x22". Not so concerned with sub as it is being incorporated into a table and will be down firing and not so visible. I am thinking some sort of paint for it.

Thanks
Matt
 

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I just finished my speaker cabinets and used veneer as well. I researched different methods of applying the veneer and went with heat activated glue. I felt it had the advantage of allowing one to position accurately the veneer before ironing it on. Contact cement would not be forgiving in repositioning the veneer and the size of the speaker cabinet did not lend itself to vacuum press method. Try to be very careful in spreading the glue evenly over the surfaces to avoid an area being too thick and protruding. Also pay attention to the edges and make sure they are very secure, both with sufficient glue and heat from your iron. I used a steam iron (cotton setting for heat) but not too much steam since it excessive steam can cause the veneer to crack. I turned off the steam as soon as the veneer laid flat.
I used a trim router for the edges and it worked great.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Brian, I will give it a go with the glue and iron paying special attetion to the application of glue to edges etc. I have a local Rockler store here to purchase the veneer unless someone has a better suggestion .

Matt
 

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I have used 3M spray contact adhesive for small projects. It is non-forgiving. Once the veneer makes contact, there is no moving it any period. I have used standard wood glue for flat projects that I could set weight on while drying. My favorite is heat activated glue. I use Better Bond Heat-Lock™ Veneer Glue. It comes in light, medium and dark color to better match the veneer you are using.
http://www.veneersupplies.com/categories/Veneering__Supplies/Veneer__Glue/

I also purchased a glue roller. http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Veneer-Glue-Roller.html# It is made of rubber. I just wash the glue off with water and soap after I use it.

I just pour it on the veneer, roll it out evenly with the roller and let it dry. I do the same for the piece it is going on. Once they are both dry. I lay the veneer on and start ironing from one corner using an old tshirt laying on the veneer to avoid scorching the veneer.
 

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Contact cement is the way to go. It will last the longest with the most strength . As for not moving that's not an issue . Use sticks underneath , have extra over the sides , and put it down properly . Frankly its easy.


Wood Audio equipment Furniture Plywood Table
 

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I have had great success with paper backed and wood backed veneer. I usually find a 4 X 8 sheet on sale, and buy a few sheets. I use the adhesive which is available in gallons at Lowe
s or Home Depot and get the "dangerous" vapor stuff. I simply roll it on the speaker and the back of the veneer, let them both dry til "tacky" then re apply to make sure I have plenty on there, and they let dry again, then using dowel rods to seep everything from sticking immediately, carefully "roll" the veneer in place using a rubber roller. I route the excess, and sand, and then finally finish using PolyShades, a product which has both stain and polyurethane mixed together. I'll stain and sand til I get the finish I am happy with. I've had great success using this method. Just make sure to use paper or wood backed veneer. Plain veneer can be a real mess unless you have a vacuum system and a lot of experience. Hope this is what you are looking for...
 

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veneersupplies.com has a product called Better Bond Titan DX which is a water based veneer glue. It applies nicely with their roller but you can buy cheaper at Home Depot or Lowes. I do, however, like the Titan DX and have used it on a few speaker projects.
SteveMA
 

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Hi Matt,
I too like contact cement. In addition to other attributes, I believe it helps deaden the vibrations in the cabinet and lets your drivers shine through. I attached zebrawood veneer to Masonite panels, then attached the panels to the cabinets. I cut off 45 degrees on each visible edge, then glued on a solid wood strip. This I planed down and finished up with a 3/4" round router bit. I used a West System epoxy for the finish but they don't make it anymore. If you can tolerate "shiny", think about a marine varnish. Have fun, Paul
 
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