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vertical stabilizer circuit board id 53HX71

5233 Views 24 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  ljryjj
I have a Toshiba rear projection tv model # 53HX71, sn 57908130, chassis # TAC0158.
I would like help in identifying the circuit board that would have the vertical stabilizer circuitry on it.
A rusted out vacuum e tech asking for your help. :)
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I am not sure what you mean by "vertical stabilizer." Vertical problems can be created at several stages. What exactly is your problem?
The picture rolls left to right very fast for about 20 minutes, then it slows down and you can watch a good picture with just a vertical white line running left to right about every 1 to 2 seconds.
It sounds like a horizontal-phase problem but sure it's more than that, :paddle:.

Several questions to ask to help diag:
1. Is Menu display ok?
2. Which input sources(ANT, componet,composite etc) do you use when it happens? Or just any of them.
3. When a vertical white line runs, does the picture shift with it?
Thanks for the interest.
The menu? It rolls also I think. Not sure. The Guide rolls left to right as does the picture when warming up for 20 minutes or so. It slowly gets better and stops. Good picture, color, menu, guide, sound etc.
The white line that goes left to right seems to be separate from the picture. Not sure and it isn't hooked up now to check it.
This is a horizontal sync issue, not vertical. The problem is very common on these sets and is usually either bad solder connections on the hyper module or bad caps on the hyper module. If you do not find bad solder connections on the oscilators change all of the 10uF and 22uF hyper module caps and test the rest for ESR.
Thank you for your help with the Toshiba. I am an electronic tech from back in the vacuum tube days. 1968 etc. I have worked construction for my livelyhood for the last decades. Is it possible to help me identify the parts that you are suggesting that I check? I do not have an electrical schematic for this tv at present. I appreciate your time in trying to help me.
All of the electrolytic caps in the hyper module are suspect and should be tested.
How would I identify the hyper modue?
It is the board inside the sheild can right behind the input board.
Hello Lcaillo,
I thank you for your help with a seudo blind man tech. I think I have enough posts to send a photo of my circuit board layouts. Would that help in your being able to point me in the right direction? I have some pics but can't seem to upload them here yet.
Hello Lcaillo,
I thank you for your help with a seudo blind man tech. I think I have enough posts to send a photo of my circuit board layouts. Would that help in your being able to point me in the right direction?
I posted a picture under General photos under TLS3028 Toshiba 53HX71.
Can you point me to the right area to take out the circuit board?
Hyper module(scan converter indeed) is usually something like a metal box standing upright (like a pack of cigar,I don't smoke though :bigsmile:). Placement wise it should be close to all the component/composite connectors. I've never opened one but I guess the capacitors lcaillo mentioned are surface mounted ones or they won't fit in the metal box.

Hope my info helps unless lcaillo corrects me, :praying:
Like I said, the hyper module is the board in the shield can right behind the input board when looking at the chassis from the back. The shield is soldered in and that solder has to be removed then the clips on the connectors on the main board can be released and the board snaps out.
Hi, After many distractions, I have removed the hyper module. I see a lot of 10 and 22 uf caps. I will try testing them from the component side.
Do not test them. Change all of them.
The degree of micro circuitry is a major challenge to the tools that I have at hand. I am wondering if attempting to buy a hyper board wouldn't be cheaper than the tool procurements that I would need. Is there a source for fair priced component boards?
There may be sources. Check with Toshiba parts distributors like Encompass (formerly Tritronics & Vance Baldwin) or others for new parts or PTS or Tri-State Module for rebuilt parts. Pricing is unlikely to be to your liking if you can find the part.

It does not take expensive equipment, just patience and skill, to repair these boards.
Thanks for the sources. I am on it.
Just want to share some experience in case if might be helpful.

Tweezer iron would be ideal to remove SMT caps. If you don't have one don't worry. Just use a pencil iron and solder wick to carefully get rid of the solder on the cap pads. Then with a tweezers in one hand to grab the body of the cap and apply gental and adequate force, while the other hand holding the iron and heating both cap pads alternatively and quickly. It would be even easier if you use two pencil irons and with a helping hand.

Be careful not to damage other tiny components around. And take notes/photos of the cap polarities.

After the cap is removed, use solder wick again to clean the pads.

When putting a replacement cap back, apply some solder on one pad. Use a tweezers to hold the cap and position it right and solder this pad. Then simply apply solder to the other end.

Digikey.com is a good place to get SMT caps. Good luck
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