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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a WS-65807 that has been diagnosed with a bad signal board for which there are no available replacements. I did not get any more detail on the board other than that it was bad. I found a WS-55807 on craigslist and picked it up pretty cheap thinking I could change out the signal boards since they are the same part numbers. Now that it comes to it, I am concerned how the 65" signal board went bad to start with. I would hate to swap it out just to have the new board get smoked when I turn on the power. Has this swap been done before? What kind of things should I look out for?
 

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There is little to go on in what you provided. If the boards are the same part number in the service manual they should work. Do not assume the markings on the boards are complete. The most common problems in these sets with the signal board are due to coolant leaks, but there are many possibilities, including a misdiagnosis to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The guy I got the TV from gave me the impression the TV may have seen a power serge. The tech who looked at the light box said he saw something on the signal board but could not say what it was. He also said the CTR did not seem to be leaking. The symptom I gave the repair guy was that the TV did not do anything accept make a faint electrical high pitched sound when turned on. No green light blinking or otherwise. One of the theories was that a microprocessor was not able to go through the start-up routine and therefor could not send any error signals. This would also go along with the shops claim they could not to repair the board given the intricacy of the microchip solder attachments. Hope this sheds a little more light on my situation.
 

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Any shop that could not repair the board because of "intricacy of the microchip solder attachments" is being lazy or does not know what they are doing. These chips are tedious but not terrribly hard to change. The bigger problem is usually availability. Are you saying that they could not pull diagnostics using the INPUT and MENU button combination?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The shop was not very forthcoming with diagnosis details. I got the impression they were unable to communicate at all with the light box. I guess my $50 only pays for so much interaction. The store manager wouldn't even let me talk to the tech that looked on my light box. Needless to say I am not going back there again. The problem for me is not knowing which shops are just looking to collect their fee for a perfunctory look over and which ones really know their stuff and are willing to help. I was expecting to here something along the lines of "this component(s) right here is fried" instead of "the signal board is NFG and you can't get a replacemtent".

You said that microchips (soldered to the board via 100 or so teeny little pins) could still be replaced? I was not aware this could be done. Does it take special high end repair shop equipment to do this?

Thanks
 

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I don't think that there are any chips with more than 84 pins on this particular board. Yes, most can be replaced, easily if you have the right equipment, and with care many can without special equipment if you have the skills.

Many shops will beg off on a repair if they don't get to an obvious problem quickly, then give you some answer that sounds like it might make sense but is really just a lot of nonsense excuses for not getting deeper into it. Now it may be cosly to repair a complex problem, but they should just say that.

Without more detail and troubleshooting, there is little that can be said about your problem. The first thing that I would do is put it back together and try to pull the diagnostics. MENU + INPUT on the front panel held simultaneously for 5 seconds should result in a 2-digit blink code. If you don't get that, then you have to start with the power supply and micro.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well something odd happened last night. I decided to cover the bases by re-connecting the light box to the screen and attempting to get a diagnostic code from the green light. This did not work when I first started this project but I wanted to be sure. What do you know I got a code. Code 12 in fact. The manual says this code means everything is OK. I did not expect that. So I pushed the power button and the thing actually turned on! I can not explain its sudded resurection. Perhaps when the repair shop was rooting around inside and cleaning the mystery residue on the signal board something good happened.
I noticed some warning stating that there was a power failure or something and I think it suggested re-setting to the factory video settings which I think I did. It was a little hard to tell what I was looking at in triple vision. The text did not line up together. The text also seemed to bow down at the middle of the screen.
I went so far as to hook up a DVD player to one of the S-video ports to see if I could get a picture. The TV recognized that something was hooked up to Input-2 but all I could see was black.
I'm not sure what I should try next.
 

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Sounds like you have an intermittent problem and perhaps a convergence failure. I would read the first 10 posts of the convergence repair sticky in the DIY repair forum carefully.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have now had the time to read throught the convergence sticky thread. I can not adjust the red or blue convergence target in either direction. I used the remote as well as the buttons on the front pannel.
Also, I tried running the output from a DVD player into one of the 480i component inputs and saw only a blue screen saying "Component 1". I did cycle through all of the inputs and they all showed up (none have been removed from the menu).
I want to try what I can to troubleshoot before taking the board out. I am currently trying to decyfer the PCB schematics to try to test the voltage at the convergence ICs. Any more suggestions?
 

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Hello lcaillo i have noticed you have posted alot of suff about this problem and would like to get some information form you when you get a chance. i have a ws-65807. and i have bowed lines on the top and bottem of the screen. i understand why it does this from reading. i was wondering if you maybe had a parts list and or a walk through. and how experienced do you need to be to perform this. i live in Mount Pleasant Michigan, 48858 and in Sandusky Michigan 48471. if there is a service place that you know of maybe i would take it there. but i feel that i may be able to do it my self.
thanks in advance for answers to any of my questions.

Thanks
Curtis
 

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Please start a new thread for YOUR problem.

Read the first ten posts of the convergence repair sticky very carefully:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/for.../5600-crt-based-rptv-convergence-repairs.html


It is always a good idea to call around to the shops in your area to get an idea of who is really familiar with these sets and what they might charge. If you do not feel confident in your ability to do the repair you might have some good options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update - I changed my mind about stealing the WS-55807 signal board in favor of using the board from a WS-65857 somone was giving away (same PN on the signal board). After changing out the board the TV was back to life. About three months ago, I was watching a movie and the sound went out. After fiddeling with the controls for a couple of minutes the video also went out. Ever since then the TV will power up but give no sound or video. A diagnostic check says all is OK. When I took the back panel off and observed what things look like when the power is turned on I heard all the usual static associated with the guns powering up. Note: When I changed out the signal board (the previous one had coolant leak damage) I installed a home made leak shield. I do not see any evidence of a leak on the new board at this time. I am now stuck not knowing what to try next.:scratch:
 

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Look again for coolant damage to the connectors between the boards or on one of the other boards.
 
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