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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all,

I'm new to the forum but I've been hovering for a while. I'm not new to DIY and have built speakers/subwoofers for many years for just about all applications. However, everything I have built I would consider pretty basic after seeing some of the stuff on this website, it's like a whole different world or something! About a year ago I built a vented Titanic 10" sub for my theater using a PE SA240 and is tuned around 27 Hz. For movies it's great and can move some air, but it lacks in the music department. I've had an interest in the RE Audio XXX 12" sub ever since they updated them in '06 and I finally have a chance to afford one so I thought I'd dive into it. I know what I'm doing for the most part, but I just wanted some input from y'all since you've been here before. As you know this is technically an autosound woofer and I'd like to get the most out of it (in a sealed box) for probably 70% music, but I'm hoping to still get a decent bottom end for movies. The design I came up with was for about 3.2-3.5 cuft to get a Q of about .5. I've been searching for post break-in specs in since I dont know what RE posted on the website, but havent found anything. I know some people have used the 15" and 18", but has anyone toyed with the 12?

Any help is appreciated.

Matt

Edit: I plan on using a Behringer EPX3000 wired stereo at 2 ohms and an Elemental Designs eQ.2. This will be in a fairly standard sized room, about 18'x21' or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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How is it lacking? Are you looking for higher extension or more SPL?

If you want to use a pair of subs so you can raise your crossover look at the 8 or 10" sound splinter stuff. It let's you get a bit more of the midbass out cleanly.

If you have money to blow than you could always pickup the JL Audio 8w7. I've got friends that use them for musical setup bottoms. The TC Sounds 8" would best them for musical bass due to it's higher crossover point capability. Another option is to pickup a pair of Exodus Anarchy drivers, but that will cost you some lower extension.

If you want great SPL look at the most recent Ricci plan. That driver would fill the bill perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How is it lacking? Are you looking for higher extension or more SPL?

If you want to use a pair of subs so you can raise your crossover look at the 8 or 10" sound splinter stuff. It let's you get a bit more of the midbass out cleanly.

If you have money to blow than you could always pickup the JL Audio 8w7. I've got friends that use them for musical setup bottoms. The TC Sounds 8" would best them for musical bass due to it's higher crossover point capability. Another option is to pickup a pair of Exodus Anarchy drivers, but that will cost you some lower extension.

If you want great SPL look at the most recent Ricci plan. That driver would fill the bill perfectly.
As far as overall FR it's not bad, it blends well with the mains but the general clarity is (I hate using this term) sloppy. I don't really have a high pass that I need to worry about for the mains so if it only plays flat up to 50-60 it will still work fine. I know there are other drivers I could consider, I've actually used the RLi 8" in my car at one point and it was indeed impressive. I've convinced myself to run with the RE, I just really want to give this driver a shot. I guess looking at all the rediculous 'size no object' subs on this website really wanted me to see what I was missing, to an extent. I'm not too concerned with SPL although we all love cranking it up every once in a while so having the added dynamic capability will help, hence the amp. My main concern is just with the airspace this driver needs to shine, and I've read a lot about how RE massively undersized the recommended box sizes for car use, so I wasn't too sure what to aim for in a home environment.
 

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Actually the 12" XXX driver is the most reasonable on box sizes due to the same motor being used one 12 as on the 18". The big 15's and 18's are the ones that need a big enclosure. It's almost impossible to port well in fact due to the displacement needed by the port to deal with the driver. I'd run it in about 2ft sealed 0.66qtc and get a big amp. I'd go with the EP4000 at a minimum. Get the D2 driver and wire it in series for a 4ohm load then bridge the amp into it. The other possible option is to get some PR's to use with it, but that'll add a bit of cost.

How much were you going to pay for the EPX3000?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Actually the 12" XXX driver is the most reasonable on box sizes due to the same motor being used one 12 as on the 18". The big 15's and 18's are the ones that need a big enclosure. It's almost impossible to port well in fact due to the displacement needed by the port to deal with the driver. I'd run it in about 2ft sealed 0.66qtc and get a big amp. I'd go with the EP4000 at a minimum. Get the D2 driver and wire it in series for a 4ohm load then bridge the amp into it. The other possible option is to get some PR's to use with it, but that'll add a bit of cost. How much were you going to pay for the EPX3000?
I was hoping to get a reply from you, you seem to have quite a bit of experience with these woofers. I'll cut the volume down a bit on the enclosure, I just wasnt sure what to trust as far as what RE recommended, not to mention its not the same application. As far as the price on the amp it's confidential (lol) I will get it at my employee cost. The biggest reason I want to use that amp is due to the RCA inputs on it, which will make it worlds easier to incorporate, and it should have plenty of power for the sub. Have you ever messed with the 12" of this model? I'd like to get some specific dimensions, ie. actual diameter and cutout size within about a 1/16th of an inch, or any third party measured T/S params would be nice.


Have you tried different room placements to see if the sound improves?
I've had this sub in three different rooms in multiple positions, tried all the 'rules of thumb' for sub placement and its just not quite what I wanted. Granted I built it for HT use, so I guess I shouldnt complain too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
One more thing, does anyone know if these come with mounting hardware? It will be mounted to a 3" baffle so standard mounting kits with t-nuts or hurricane nuts wont be long enough. I suppose I should just run to the hardware store and find something, I assume the mounting holes will fit a 1/4-20 bolt?
 

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The mounting holes will not clear a 1/4-20. I used 10-20 for mine. They come with no mounting hardware other than the allen wrench for the terminals and a gasket. BTW do not overtighten the set screw in the terminals as they will strip out if you are not careful. Also watch the fingers when you put the sub in the enclosure. Use a screwdriver or something to leverage it down the last little bit. These will mangle your finger tips if you aren't careful. Trust me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The mounting holes will not clear a 1/4-20. I used 10-20 for mine. They come with no mounting hardware other than the allen wrench for the terminals and a gasket. BTW do not overtighten the set screw in the terminals as they will strip out if you are not careful. Also watch the fingers when you put the sub in the enclosure. Use a screwdriver or something to leverage it down the last little bit. These will mangle your finger tips if you aren't careful. Trust me.
Thanks for the tips. I'm debating on whether or not to put a small removable opening on the rear of the enclosure so I can get the driver out easier. I can't believe they wont accept 1/4-20?!? With so much down force on the rear of these things...
 

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You could always drill them out a bit. LMS's don't accept 1/4-20's either. They get drilled out. What's up with 70-80lb sub drivers not having big enough mounting screw holes? :paddle:
 

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I hear that:rolleyesno: I believe all drivers should have at least 1/4 inch holes so I don't have to buy 17 different size nuts and bolts:spend:
 
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