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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm building a sealed sub with Dayton Ultimax 18 and their flatpack. I see a lot of people use weatherstripping to seal the driver, but I don't really get how this works with the screwholes.

All the videos and threads I've seen show the builder laying the driver in, marking the screw holes, then removing the driver and drilling pilot holes and/or screwholes, then putting the driver back and screwing it down.

So when does the weatherstripping get applied? If I put it over the holes then I'm not going to find them again, and either way, won't drilling through the weatherstripping tear it up, possibly losing the seal and gumming up the screws?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, I want to get it right the first time.
 

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You can put the stripping on the driver side or box side. I've put it on the driver before because I thought it was easier to poke screws through and line up the holes that way. Some drivers have a rubberized gasket, which I thought Dayton subs did, so no weather stripping is actually needed.
 

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Another consideration is the type of weatherstripping. Don't use the stuff that's like 1/2" tall and very squish. It's better to use something that's no more than 1/4" high and has some density to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You can put the stripping on the driver side or box side. I've put it on the driver before because I thought it was easier to poke screws through and line up the holes that way. Some drivers have a rubberized gasket, which I thought Dayton subs did, so no weather stripping is actually needed.
So did you mark and drill holes, then drop in the driver with the weatherstripping attached, then just kind of rotate the speaker and poke around until you find the spots where the holes are?

Jman, I got 1/8", that seems to be the consensus.
 

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Assuming that the cabinet at this point doesn’t have the finish completed, you could drill the pilot holes and make a mark beside it that would be seen after the weather stripping went down.

I’ve always used rope caulk for the seal – it doesn’t have this problem.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks all! I found out the Ultimax actually comes with a rubber gasket already glued on, but I've got weatherstripping on hand if I find I need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, it's not airtight. I have air coming out at least two of the screw holes when I press down. I guess I need weatherstripping after all.

Also is the lip of the driver supposed to be completely flush with the baffle? I would have to tap it in with a hammer to make that happen and then I don't know how I'll ever get it out when I inevitably need to correct some other problem.

Wayne, you don't happen to have any pics of how you lay out the rope caulk, do you? And does it make it harder to pull the driver out if necessary?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I tried rope caulk and weatherstripping and I'm still getting leaks where the screws are at the very least, ready to throw the thing out the window (if it weren't so heavy).
 

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This is what I've used before but not on sealed. Ymmv of course. I would think if you go right over the screw holes and use the fattest screws that will fit you should be fine.


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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, that's exactly what I got. I went around the edge of the cutout, not overlapping the screw holes, thinking this would be enough. I'm still not sure how it isn't. I'll try going over the screwholes, although it seems like there would be so much ripping and twisting of the weatherstripping when I screw through it that I would think that would wreck the seal.
 

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If the driver is already in place, the pressure( by weight of the driver) should hold the seal(theoretically) in place and keep it from twisting. Plus the adhesive will add extra grip.

If you need to clock the driver to line up with the holes, set it on the baffle so it's close and use a small punch or an awl to rotate it.


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I frequently put a tie-wrap setup as a big loop on opposite sides of the driver (so for example, one at 12 o'clock and one a 6 o'clock). I use those as handles to lower it into place and make whatever adjustments I need. Once I can start a few of the screws I cut the tie-wraps and pull them right out.
 
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